Hello there,

So here is my issue. I purchased the ECS tuning ultimate timing belt kit and am working on replacing the belt with all of the extras. I also purchased valve cover gaskets, cam seals, cam caps, and the cam chain tensioner gaskets. Now, In order to get to the Cam seals you have to pull off the cam pulley. I marked my timing belt in about 10 spots including on the cam pulleys and crank sprocket prior to removal. With the transfer of the marks it makes it easy to line up the new belt and know that the engine is in time.

Upon inspecting the cam pulley noticed that there is a large flat spot on one end of the camshaft that I understood as meanin the cam and sprocket were keyed so that they could be assembled in only 1 way. I used my puller and removed the pulley only to discover that the pulley was not keyed at all, the flat spot on the cam was only for the securing device that pressed the cam pulley on. This immediately panicked me. I had not marked the cam separately and may have spun it a few degrees in either direction while removing the pulley. When I re-assembled I had nothing but some pictures I took of the before to try and guide me as far as the location of the sprocket on the cam. This leaves alot of variability and no doubt could effect my timing by atleast a few degrees.

That being said, I re-assembled my cam pulley, timing belt assembly, etc. making sure all my transfered marks lined up. Upon doing so I checked everything by turning the motor by hand using my 1/2" ratchet with a 24mm socket on the crank sprocket. The motor turns freely for a portion of a turn but then stops and will not go further, I flipped my ratchet the other way and turned the motor in the other direction. Again the motor seemed to "hit" or atleast stop turning freely approx. 180 degrees from where it had previously hit in the other direction.

Does this mean that my valves are in the way of the pistons? Is that why it stops? Is it normal for the motor to rotate half way and then not want to rotate further by hand? I do have the heads, the plugs, coil packs, etc. all completely re-assembled. Can anybody shed some light as to how this should be done? There must be a way to set timing with an unknown. Also, seeing as the crank has been rotated, have no idea where TDC is anymore. The crank sprocket is keyed in two spots approx 60 degrees apart from one another. Can anybody give me the relationship of those keys to TDC?

I know this is all some very odd things to ask, but I need help here and want to get this right so I don't turn my key and cost my wallet alot of money!!!

 

Slow down...
don't force it your timed wrong!!!
Yes your hitting valves!!!

What year and engine do you have?

Do you have the timing tools?

You don't need to mark the timing belt...

You do need to make sure the crank was on 0 and locked and marked however. I mark mine never locked it.

 

02 A6 2.7t 6MT is my car. The crank was not marked and locked at zero. I work at a shop and was advised by a guy with 25+ years in the industry that marking the old belt and transferring the marks to the new belt and matching the marks up to the corresponding marks on the pulley was the easiest way to keep timing in sync without the need for expensive cam lock tools, etc.

As far as the crank goes, I did not lock the crank or mark it. I had the crank and cams kept in the same spot and marked so that if they did move at all I could verify my mark and return them to original position without hassle prior to reassembly. My mistake was in pulling the drivers side cam pulley not realizing that is wasn't keyed. That being the case, the cam could spin any amount on its own free will and the method of reattaching the pulley and marking everything to the lines would be off. I was under the impression the cam and pulley were keyed so they could only be assembled one way. Boy was I wrong!

Now I am fortunate in that I noticed this to be the case before I removed the other cam pulley, so only one side is unknown at the moment, the other side is still marked and can be lined up and verified with my original spots,.... however my original spot was not TDC with the cams even, thus it is not that simple! So what can I do?

 

Oops. SHould have read a DIY before starting that job!

There are a couple of ways to get out of your mess:

One - rent an alignment tool. It will hold the cams by the flats in proper orientation. This is the best way.

Two - line up the flats so they are vertical and facing each other when the crank is at TDC (lined up to its mark). Use a level to make sure the flats are vertical. Make sure to correct for any angularity of the car.

Place the cam gears on the cams, start the bolts but do not tighten them, install the belt, line up the flats, THEN tighten the bolts.

Good luck,

Bob

 

Marking the TB is a BS - everything started there!
(Mine old TB (looking as a new) was 1" longer than the new one).
There are so many excellent reads with photos about TB replacement - just read.
ECS Tuning used to have a detailed guide on line as well.

 

If your still messing with this you can get the tools on ebay from el paso or something like that relativity cheap.

Sorry to hear about the bad advice.