So, I took my car into a shop today to get the suspension checked out. (Not good news) But, the guy who owns the shop took my car for a test drive when I got my tune up done there. Well he knows Audis and what a twin turbo V6 one should feel like; and although the car drives fine he said it isn't as fast as it should be. He even said "one of these should take off like a rocket, and this is more sluggish than any one I have ever driven". He said the engine runs fine, and the turbos sound fine so I am assuming boost leak. I don't know how to test it, nor do I have the tools to test it. Most common failure I have heard of is the throttle body boot tearing. Can bad diverter valves cause a low boost as well, or possibly just bad hoses? Also, how hard is it to replace all of this? I swear it seems like every day I am asking for help lol, but one day this car is going to be 100% repaired and I can die happy.

Oh and it is the 2004 A6 2.7 S-Line

 

my car does not take off like a rocket although it does "pull" after 3.5k rpm.

all those items you listed are very easy to replace. but if the car did have a boost leak the check engine would come on. (pretty sure about this)

the 2.7 is turbo charged so it does not perform well in heat so that could be slowing it down. if your winter is as hot as Houston's that could be the problem. theres a night and difference in my car from driving it at mid day to midnight.

but if you do decide to replace the dv go with the audi tt 225hp diverter valves. aka 710
Audi All Road 2.7T > Engine > Intake > Diverter Valve > ES#581 Diverter Valve, 225hp Audi TT Version-Priced Each - 06A145710N

the throttle body can be checked its right next to the diverter valve underneath the "v6 biturbo" cover. look closely for tears. if there is a tear i believe people go for the silicone tbb. good luck!

 

Thanks, I hope it is something simple. No CEL's though. Maybe a dirty MAF sensor? How can I tell if a Diverter valve is bad?

 

it will throw a code which specifies the diverter valve is not working properly.

another way of checking is this

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...s3Uz6OUfLnJZtg

funny you should mention the maf. once the engine is fully warm and engine heat gets on the maf which makes the cars throttle response lag a little bit.

this is why you get a better response at fresh morning start. some people insulate the maf. ive done it with aluminum foil which made my response better but i ended up taking it out. lol it also for sure kept the maf cooler.

also one thing you can do is remove the fog light plastic cover so more air can get into the intercooler. that might help a tad.

 

My response in the morning is kind of dull as well though. I think I am going to pick up some parts from home depot tomorrow and build a pressure tester and test the system at 8 psi to see what happens.

 

our turbos make 9psi.

 

Touche. Hopefully if it is a leak, it is minor. If not I am stumped. Or just maybe this is how it is supposed to drive, because until now I have never owned a vehicle with turbos.

 

if you dont have a check engine light i wouldnt worry about it. but just in-case if you have a vag-com scan it for codes. lots of time a "MIL" wont be thrown but a code can still be stored in the ecu.

your mechanic might have over sold how fast our cars are lol. mine seems slow until the rpms reach 3k. or hes probably only driven then 2.7's that were chipped. but until a nice orange thunderbolt comes on your dash dont worry about it. just enjoy the car and stop worrying

 

I'll see if I can get my vag-com working. I have a cable and the software, but hen I plug it in to my laptop it wont read the cord?

 

did you set up the com port? go on option and test all 4 ports. if none works try another usb port and check all of the com ports.