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rear brake change issue

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  #11  
Old 04-22-2009, 09:52 PM
kevin1533's Avatar
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Thanks for the replies everyone.

Heres is a video clip of the leak. You cant see it in the video but its coming down from further up, out of my reach. I called a guy on craiglist whos gonna come take a look this weekend.. hes obviously not sure since he hasnt seen it but he said it would run me around 200 for labor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2A9_FMg_Po
 
  #12  
Old 04-23-2009, 12:08 AM
chefro's Avatar
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Please let us know how he did fix it.

good luck.
 
  #13  
Old 04-23-2009, 09:02 AM
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You need to actually pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Literally put your finger on it (but not with someone pumping-don't want any accidents) It is most likely a brake line and that is an easy thing. If it is you will need to go to remove the entire line (don't do a little piece) and go to the auto store get the correct size and enough line to replace it. You will have to bend it to get it out that's OK but it would probably help you to keep it in its original condition as possible.

Tools Rags, Small pipe cutter and cheapo pipe bender and a flaring tool are all available at the auto store. Then remove the brake line and cut 5" off the ends to show the parts guy what you need. Carefully measure your length so you get enough. If you take your time you will be able to bend it pretty close to original but it does not have to be exact just don't bend and unbend trying to make it perfect or you'll weaken the line. You should also bend as you install it, which will make it easier to slide it through the engine bay. The flaring tool will come with instructions practice on your old tube first and remember to slide your fitting on before you make the flare. It is really easy, if you can bleed brakes, you can replace a line. If one has gone the others are soon to follow so I recommend learning how to do it. Let me know if you need more help.

Just make sure you find the leak first and confirm that it is a line. A small denist mirror would be helpful, avail. at auto store. You can buy the tools and parts for less than 200 and be ready for the next time. Buy the cheap tools you won't use them much.

Also get some cleaner and wash that crap off your car ASAP, it’s corrosive. Protect your paint before you start. Cover the fenders etc.
 

Last edited by Jackmup; 04-23-2009 at 09:17 AM.
  #14  
Old 04-23-2009, 03:21 PM
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$200 for labor?? He's looking at 2-4 hours. The line is probably cheep $5 -10 so I'd guess he is planning on taking the whole vehicle apart.
 
  #15  
Old 04-29-2009, 09:36 PM
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Bled system with motive bleeder and brake seems firm now although when engines on still a bit squishy. I tried to run the ab pump bleed on the vag but it would not work [Select]
[03 - ABS Brakes]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 002 Go.

I ran vag and this is what i got:

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US


Chassis Type: 4B - Audi A6 C5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,35,36,37,45,55,56,76

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 8E0 909 559 E
Component: 3.0L V6/5V G 0001
Coding: 0016752
Shop #: WSC 02325
3 Faults Found:
17831 - Secondary Air Injection System: Bank 1: Insufficient Flow
P1423 -- 002 -- Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
17820 - EGR Pressure Sensor: Signal too Small
P1412 -- 002 -- Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
18023 - Engine Oil Temp Sensor (G8): Implausible Signal
P1615 -- 002 -- Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans
Controller: 4B0 927 156 FF
Component: AG5 01V 3.0l5V USA 1213
Coding: 0001002
Shop #: WSC 23190
1 Fault Found:
18158 - Supply Voltage too Low
P1750 -- 003 -- Mechanical Failure - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Skipping Address 15-Airbags

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel
Controller: 4B0 907 487 F
Component: Lenkradelektronik D01
Coding: 01002
Shop #: WSC 02325
2 Faults Found:
00926 - Terminal 30
07-10 -- Signal too Low - Intermittent
01305 - Databus for Infotainment
49-10 -- No Communications - Intermittent
 
  #16  
Old 04-29-2009, 11:48 PM
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Are we still talking about your brakes? If so put that Vag-com away you’re scaring me with all of the other things you have wrong with your car. Have you replaced the line? Do not tell me for 200 and the guy didn't bleed the brakes with you. If the line is done you need to re bleed all of the brakes starting in the rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. Pump the crap out of them in between and use the 2(two) person method. (Attach a tube into a cup full of fluid so you don't suck in air, That way if your partner lets up on the pedal you will only suck back fluid). They pump up brakes then push and hold. You open line and when they say the pedal is on the floor you close the line and tell them to pump. Then they will hold the pedal down again and on and on. You will be bleeding a lot of fluid on this so have some on hand. Go around twice and the second time you may get a little more air out. Do not let the reservoir get low. You have a lot of air in your system so you will have to do it again after you have driven around to get the rest of it out.
 
  #17  
Old 04-30-2009, 12:15 AM
kevin1533's Avatar
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hey jack, thanks for the reply. I just decided to rebleed properly. BTW in the bentley manual it says to bleed:
FR
FL
RR
RL

I read some good reviews about the motive bleeder and it worked like a charm. basically pushes with pressure from up top. I just ran the vag b/c I wanted to bleed the abs pump...

Most those vag codes dont scare me(my car was flooded and I changed my Trans control mod) since then Ive had the error code about low voltage but car ran for months since then.

But some of the other codes are new. I havent driven the car yet as
Im draining my trans fluid right now waiting for my hex set to come so I can drop the pan and change filter.
 
  #18  
Old 04-30-2009, 09:23 AM
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You should clear those codes. That way when something else comes up you'll be able to determine what it was that triggered the CEL. I myself have always used someone to pump the brake pedal, I lucked out my kids are good at it. My wife is a liar lets air in every time. I heard that bleeder was nice though.
The other thing I just did was changed the fluid color when bleeding, The new fluid is blue and I saved alot of fluid because I normaly bleed alot more out of the lines. This time I could see the fluid change color.

Did you end up changing the brake line yourself?
 
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