Rear brake job
#1
11-28-2007, 06:11 PM
Rear brake job
I looked on the DIY web site but can't really find good directions on how to do a rear brake job on my a6. I've done brake jobs other cars no problem but this one seems a little different. Any one know if it's hard or easy? Should i use audi parts or are different brands ok? I found some for $28 on bimmerspecialist.com and the brand is ATE or zimmerman. Those good brands? I've also been wanting to do slotted or drilled rotors, are those any good for the rear or just fronts? Thanks!!
#2
11-28-2007, 06:22 PM
RE: Rear brake job
Just did it on my a4, i imagine the a6 is not far off. It's easy once you learn it, first time is a little rough. Main thing is make sure you have a caliper tool set which will fit the piston because it had to be rotated as it is compressed. I did all 4 brakes today, i may never do that again. It was my first time working on an audi, compared to Nissans that i've worked on in the past it isnt all that different aside from detaching a sensor.
#3
11-29-2007, 11:25 AM
RE: Rear brake job
ATE and Zimmerman are both OK.
No need to waste money on slotted rears. Most of the work is done at the front.
The bigest problem will be rotating the pistonsas you push them in because of the e-brake. I have the tools but usually just put loaded rebuilt calipers on the rear with new rotors to simplify the project. -- Better to spend a little more than tie up a car for a few days trying to get a replacement caliper.
If you do pads and rotors on the rear be sure to spend the time needed to clean the slides real well so the caliper floats freely.
No need to waste money on slotted rears. Most of the work is done at the front.
The bigest problem will be rotating the pistonsas you push them in because of the e-brake. I have the tools but usually just put loaded rebuilt calipers on the rear with new rotors to simplify the project. -- Better to spend a little more than tie up a car for a few days trying to get a replacement caliper.
If you do pads and rotors on the rear be sure to spend the time needed to clean the slides real well so the caliper floats freely.
#4
11-29-2007, 11:30 AM
RE: Rear brake job
ATE or Zimmerman are the OEM brands. You will not go wrong with either. Rear disks are solid, HP disks should be on the front.
Unless you have the tool to compress/turn the rear pistons (purchased, rented or made up) I'd suggest to leave the labor to somebody else.
Labour is 1h, you provide the parts if you can have them cheaper.
The OEM pads are Texar or Pagid.
Match them with the front - what are your front calipers - sinle pistons (ATE) or 2 pistons (Girling)- 8 pads set.
What year is your A6
(To pick the rear rotors you need your car Build code -ON5 or ON6)
Unless you have the tool to compress/turn the rear pistons (purchased, rented or made up) I'd suggest to leave the labor to somebody else.
Labour is 1h, you provide the parts if you can have them cheaper.
The OEM pads are Texar or Pagid.
Match them with the front - what are your front calipers - sinle pistons (ATE) or 2 pistons (Girling)- 8 pads set.
What year is your A6
(To pick the rear rotors you need your car Build code -ON5 or ON6)
#5
11-29-2007, 11:57 AM
RE: Rear brake job
ORIGINAL: NH_USA
ATE and Zimmerman are both OK.
No need to waste money on slotted rears. Most of the work is done at the front.
The bigest problem will be rotating the pistonsas you push them in because of the e-brake. I have the tools but usually just put loaded rebuilt calipers on the rear with new rotors to simplify the project. -- Better to spend a little more than tie up a car for a few days trying to get a replacement caliper.
If you do pads and rotors on the rear be sure to spend the time needed to clean the slides real well so the caliper floats freely.
ATE and Zimmerman are both OK.
No need to waste money on slotted rears. Most of the work is done at the front.
The bigest problem will be rotating the pistonsas you push them in because of the e-brake. I have the tools but usually just put loaded rebuilt calipers on the rear with new rotors to simplify the project. -- Better to spend a little more than tie up a car for a few days trying to get a replacement caliper.
If you do pads and rotors on the rear be sure to spend the time needed to clean the slides real well so the caliper floats freely.
Hard to see at 100MPH!
#7
11-29-2007, 02:33 PM
RE: Rear brake job
ORIGINAL: nemohm
ATE or Zimmerman are the OEM brands. You will not go wrong with either. Rear disks are solid, HP disks should be on the front.
Unless you have the tool to compress/turn the rear pistons (purchased, rented or made up) I'd suggest to leave the labor to somebody else.
Labour is 1h, you provide the parts if you can have them cheaper.
The OEM pads are Texar or Pagid.
Match them with the front - what are your front calipers - sinle pistons (ATE) or 2 pistons (Girling)- 8 pads set.
What year is your A6
(To pick the rear rotors you need your car Build code -ON5 or ON6)
ATE or Zimmerman are the OEM brands. You will not go wrong with either. Rear disks are solid, HP disks should be on the front.
Unless you have the tool to compress/turn the rear pistons (purchased, rented or made up) I'd suggest to leave the labor to somebody else.
Labour is 1h, you provide the parts if you can have them cheaper.
The OEM pads are Texar or Pagid.
Match them with the front - what are your front calipers - sinle pistons (ATE) or 2 pistons (Girling)- 8 pads set.
What year is your A6
(To pick the rear rotors you need your car Build code -ON5 or ON6)
PS: when the fronts go that's when I'll do slotted! Didn't think back was needed any way except to match!
#8
11-29-2007, 04:12 PM
RE: Rear brake job
The rear pistons have to be rotated as they are pushed in because of the e-brake. Sometimes you can do it with a pair of pliers and a clamp but it really should be done with the correct tool. About 10% of the ones I have done will not go back in and the caliper needed replacing. In any case make sure the slides are clean so the calipers move easily - otherwise the pads will wear on one side.
The front pistons ones can bepushed in without rotating -- but the slides still need to be free.
The front pistons ones can bepushed in without rotating -- but the slides still need to be free.
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