2002 A6 4.2. New valve body installed in trasmission. With old valve body, the deal where it felt like it went to neutral then slam into gear would happen once in while. If you drove it a lot, it would get worse (more often) and eventually go to limp mode. Shut off the car, it would go back to normal (not in limp mode). I expected one of two things with a new valve body. Either it would be the same, because the issue was some other transmission issue, or it would be fixed. I think it's fixed, but it is in this confused state right now (I have no idea why).

In park, vag com (VCDS-lite and a knock off cable) gear selection says 4. In reverse, it says R and goes just fine. In drive it says 1M, and feels like the brakes are on. If the RPMs are brought up to 2000+ it moves forward, like it's being forced through the brakes (I know - don't do that again). The only code is 01119 - Gear Recognition Signal (with 35-10 - - - Intermittent). Here's my guess - in drive it is in two gears at once - 4th and 1st. The code is from the ABS module, so I thought maybe the ABS had the brakes pumped on, but that doesn't appear to be the case. I know the gear selection comes from the transmission range sensor, but it was never touched and seems to work fine indicating reverse and neutral and drive and such. But the gear selection indicated in the vag com appears to be coming from the TCM output, and that would be the input that would error the ABS module also.

A couple of other things that may be worth knowing. I disconnected the connector to the transmission that goes to the valve body and input speed sensor. Car goes into limp mode and moves forward just fine in drive like that. I know the input speed sensor is working with the vag com. I am sure the connectors are on the solenoids. I have a lot of confidence in the supplier of the valve body (Eriksson Industries - erikssonindustries.com - recommended supplier when I called the ZF factory support). All I touched was the pan, the filter, the valve body, back together and fill (checked temp, it's full and drips out a little at 40 C.... all that). Battery was disconnected the whole time. Didn't mess with anything else.

I am hoping there is a way to reset the TCM. Again, I have no idea why. It would seem it should be in a ready state. So, I have disconnected battery, I have taken the connector off the TCM (what a pain that was to get to), I have tried the "key on, gas to the floor for 10 seconds, key off" that is supposed to clear shift points to defaul (not sure why - just trying everything), and now I am leaving the battery unhooked over night, even though I have no reason to think that will work.

My question is if there is a way to reset the TCM. If there is a way to do it without vag com or with the VCDS-lite (which I doubt, but that would be great). Or, I may pop for a real deal cable and ross-tech VCDS registered if I know it will work and know the procedure for doing it (like if there is a login code and such, and some step by step how to). Next step is to a shop, but I would rather spend the money on the vag com. I know it's all a gamble, but this whole thing was a gamble to see if the valve body would fix the transmission. I may still be in for a full transmission rebuild if I get this cleared up and go drive it and the slip and slam is still there.

Any suggestions on how or why the car got into this state, or suggestions on a fix would be appreciated. I realize I am guessing and could be dead wrong about what is going on and what to do next.

 

Remove carpet from front passenger side , see if it is wet?

 

I mentioned above that I have already been there and disconnected the connector to try to reset the TCM. No moisture, no corrosion anywhere. Car has always been garaged and most everything on it is pristine.

 

It may be a problem with the torque converter lock-up clutch. Was the old transmission fluid very dirty? if you are absolutely sure the speed input sensor is not faulty, i would say it may pay to take your car to a good transmission place to reset and do an adaptation while driving the car to get real time data. You can buy a vag scanner on ebay for a $100 or less and clear codes. That rosstech stuff is good only if you get the full software and it s expensive. Check ebay trust me the gadgets work just the same.

Good luck, let me know how you go :-)

 

Thanks for the reply. You are right on track with the "reset and adaptation". That's the info I'm looking for - how to do that myself instead of going to a shop. I found the procedure for the CVT, but no luck for the tiptronic. The only way to drive it right now is with the connector disconnected from the transmission (which forces it into limp mode). Torque converter lock-up clutch would be there in limp mode too, but car moves just fine. It's only stuck like the brakes are on with the connector on, i.e. the TCM in control. The 01119 code on the ABS module is the only code. I can clear codes all day long, including that one, with the VCDS-lite. That's the only one. I think there must me a way to get it into a ready state, but I just can't find the info. I was hoping maybe pushing a recode, maybe to a new code and then back to stock, may do it. I can clear codes all day long, but can't recode or do adaptation (and wouldn't know how even if I got full blown ross-tech VCDS). If I was convinced a transmission shop or audi indy shop could do it, I would take it to them. But I've got no indication from any of them they know what to do. They say what I already know - it shouldn't be doing that, and they don't understand why bolting in a new valve body would change anything. I dropped the pan again today. Checked all the connections, did resistance readings at the solenoids, and from the pins outside of the transmission to verify no wiring or obvious issue with speed sensor or solenoids. All was perfect.

Thanks again for the input. If I find a shop to do this, or find the info myself, I'll post the fix.

 

Try getting a scanner and read the fault codes. If you get a scanner, get one that clears MIL codes. Have a look on ebay. Do an international search you will find a machine capable of doing that quite cheap. I just had a look and found some for under $100