Thoughts on Detailing
#1
Thoughts on Detailing
I have a black '02 2.7T that looks great. I purchased it used and it was in a corp. fleet so when I purchased it 8 months ago it looked almost new on the outside. Since then I have washed it regularly at a touchless car wash (I know...) and can still see a reflection reasonably well off the hood. But winter is coming up here and I want to keep the car looking great.
Since I have owned very cheap cars before this, I have no experience detailing a car. I also don't have a great place to take it to get it detailed, and honestly would love to learn more for myself.
I am looking at a guide over at properautocare.com that uses mostly Menzerna products. Link to guide.
But honestly, I'm not sure I need all of that. Anybody have any GUIDES they suggest. Just telling me what to use isn't going to get me very far. Thanks for your thoughts!
Since I have owned very cheap cars before this, I have no experience detailing a car. I also don't have a great place to take it to get it detailed, and honestly would love to learn more for myself.
I am looking at a guide over at properautocare.com that uses mostly Menzerna products. Link to guide.
But honestly, I'm not sure I need all of that. Anybody have any GUIDES they suggest. Just telling me what to use isn't going to get me very far. Thanks for your thoughts!
#2
I can't help you -- I haven't washed a vehicle in years --
I'm a real back to nature guy but not a tree hugger.
If mommy nature puts dirt on my vehicle she can damn well remove it herself.
God invented rain to help her do her chores.
I'm a real back to nature guy but not a tree hugger.
If mommy nature puts dirt on my vehicle she can damn well remove it herself.
God invented rain to help her do her chores.
#3
#4
I handwash all summer and use a good Mother's or Meguiar's carnuba wax, in the shade. I admit to using a car wash in the winter, but I think salt is worse than minor brush marks. I can remove the brush marks with Meguiar's ScratchX.
I have a few Chrysler Crossfires and they are a fanatical bunch over on the crossfireforum.org. Go to the "detailing" forum and look for Mike-in-Orange. He really knows his stuff. I took his advice and claybarred one of my Crossfire's, then waxed, and it is glass smooth now with a great shine. Black is always a challenge, but there are products that can remove many scratches and swirls and leave a mirror, glossy finish.
I have a few Chrysler Crossfires and they are a fanatical bunch over on the crossfireforum.org. Go to the "detailing" forum and look for Mike-in-Orange. He really knows his stuff. I took his advice and claybarred one of my Crossfire's, then waxed, and it is glass smooth now with a great shine. Black is always a challenge, but there are products that can remove many scratches and swirls and leave a mirror, glossy finish.
#6
I frequent autotopia.org and let me tell you, those guys/gals are detailing freaks!! It's addicting though. I just spent two days on my wife's 97 Jeep Cherokee and it looks amazing, but it's a ton of work.
If I were you, this is what I'd do:
Hand wash it w/ a quality soap - not Dawn or laundry detergent - get Meguiars Gold class or something similar
Then clay bar it. This removes all of the contaminents that don't come off from a normal wash. If you don't believe me that your paint has this stuff soaked in, after you wash it, put your hand in a ziploc bag and run it over the car - it'll (most likely) feel rough. Then clay bar a small section and try again - smooth as a baby's butt!!
If you don't want to go all the way w/ a polish (I would - it's black - black is dead sexy and looks amazing all polished out) then at least get a quality sealant. Sealant is different than wax. It bonds to the paint and makes it "slick" - easier to clean and helps protect better from bird bombs, etc. I don't live in a snow area, but I'd think it'd help there too. It is resistant to washing, so you don't have to reapply after every wash!! You can get Meguiars NXT 2.0 at Wal-Mart & parts stores and it's okay ($15) but only lasts a month or two. I personally just ordered Blackfire Wet Diamond for my dark green A6. You can apply a quality carnuaba wax over the sealant too if you'd like. I went w/ the Blackfire Midnight Sun wax (you can get both as a kit for $100 on properautocare.com). This combo should last 6 months I'm hoping. I've read as much as 9, but I won't wait that long w/ the FL sun.
If I were you, this is what I'd do:
Hand wash it w/ a quality soap - not Dawn or laundry detergent - get Meguiars Gold class or something similar
Then clay bar it. This removes all of the contaminents that don't come off from a normal wash. If you don't believe me that your paint has this stuff soaked in, after you wash it, put your hand in a ziploc bag and run it over the car - it'll (most likely) feel rough. Then clay bar a small section and try again - smooth as a baby's butt!!
If you don't want to go all the way w/ a polish (I would - it's black - black is dead sexy and looks amazing all polished out) then at least get a quality sealant. Sealant is different than wax. It bonds to the paint and makes it "slick" - easier to clean and helps protect better from bird bombs, etc. I don't live in a snow area, but I'd think it'd help there too. It is resistant to washing, so you don't have to reapply after every wash!! You can get Meguiars NXT 2.0 at Wal-Mart & parts stores and it's okay ($15) but only lasts a month or two. I personally just ordered Blackfire Wet Diamond for my dark green A6. You can apply a quality carnuaba wax over the sealant too if you'd like. I went w/ the Blackfire Midnight Sun wax (you can get both as a kit for $100 on properautocare.com). This combo should last 6 months I'm hoping. I've read as much as 9, but I won't wait that long w/ the FL sun.
#7
I'm not trying to sound snotty or anything but i get my car done every saturday...my bf owns a detail shop and all your recommedations are fine but its pointless on an almost 8yr old car....
What needs to be done is a hand wash..clay bar...then compound..polish...wax with the appropriate pads for a high rpm buffer ...then use spray wax with a micro fiber cloth for final detail. Dont forget the windows and tire shine !
What needs to be done is a hand wash..clay bar...then compound..polish...wax with the appropriate pads for a high rpm buffer ...then use spray wax with a micro fiber cloth for final detail. Dont forget the windows and tire shine !
#8
but its pointless on an almost 8yr old car....
What needs to be done is a hand wash..clay bar...then compound..polish...wax with the appropriate pads for a high rpm buffer ...then use spray wax with a micro fiber cloth for final detail. Dont forget the windows and tire shine !
What needs to be done is a hand wash..clay bar...then compound..polish...wax with the appropriate pads for a high rpm buffer ...then use spray wax with a micro fiber cloth for final detail. Dont forget the windows and tire shine !
Last edited by mystrodo; 09-25-2009 at 11:51 AM. Reason: too many spelin errors
#10
I'm not trying to sound snotty or anything but i get my car done every saturday...my bf owns a detail shop and all your recommedations are fine but its pointless on an almost 8yr old car....
What needs to be done is a hand wash..clay bar...then compound..polish...wax with the appropriate pads for a high rpm buffer ...then use spray wax with a micro fiber cloth for final detail. Dont forget the windows and tire shine !
What needs to be done is a hand wash..clay bar...then compound..polish...wax with the appropriate pads for a high rpm buffer ...then use spray wax with a micro fiber cloth for final detail. Dont forget the windows and tire shine !
What am I not getting? Is it b/c I don't own a "detail shop"?? I personally would MUCH rather seal my car's paint after a full day's work than just top it off w/ some "spray wax". It is a LOT of work to clay & compound & THEN polish a car - why not spend the money to protect it??
Now, like I suggested, if you don't want to compound and polish, then skip from claying to waxing. I still stand by my recommendation of NXT 2.0 if you're looking for something easily assessable and inexpensive or going w/ a more "boutique" sealer if you have the money. It's your car, do what you want with it.
PS - No one applies wax w/ a high rpm buffer - save that for the compounding and polishing. Wax is applied by hand. I can only imagine what would happen if I took my Makita to some carnauba wax....OUCH.
Last edited by gone postal; 09-29-2009 at 09:23 PM.