Thanks

 

1) These are interference engines. If your timing belt snaps or skips teeth you got a nice looking hunk of useless crap (bent valves & lifters). Change the timing belt; take care of the water pump, idle roller, tensioner roller, thermostat & accessory belt while in there. Investigate behind the cam sprockets for oil leaks in the seals. This would be the time to replace them if failing. BE SURE TO USE THE CAM LOCK BAR & CRANK LOCKING PIN!!!! There are some DIY’s out there that use tick marks. 90% of the time your timing will be off and destroy your valves, lifters... basically the entire engine.

2) (Automatic Transmissions Only) unfortunately, the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch, basically the clutch for an auto Trans) had design flaws. An internal oil seal nearly always fails. If there is no CEL on you can test for this by simply getting up to 60mph + and taking your foot off the gas. If you’re RPM gauge drops down when releasing your foot off the gas, your TCC is failing. It will not affect the rest of the transmission at first, but once the entire TCC fails it will destroy the transmission. This also will affect gas mileage when travelling at highway speeds.
-Replacing the TCC is NOT a DIY. It is a level 10 of 10 in terms of mechanical skill knowledge & huge tools. I’m a mechanic, but I don’t mess with tip-tronic transmissions. Obviously I have many “hook ups” in the industry and managed to get the TCC remanufactured, transmission flushed, transmission filter replaced & pan cleaned + labor for $1,500.00 total, which is a third of what the dealer charges & half of what an Independent shop would charge. Melted remains from the bad seal were evident at the bottom of the pan, I was lucky enough to not have any metal fragments in the old fluid, but the presence of metal fragments means internal transmission damage has occurred. Not a death sentence to a transmission but it means you let the problem go on for too long.

3) Auxiliary Water Pump’s (used when the car is under extreme conditions, also keeps coolant flowing through system after you’ve turned the car off for a short period of time) made by Bosch (stock) will fail over and over again. I’ve fixed one car’s Aux Pump 4 times. There are no remanufactured ones (at least to my knowledge) they just fail from being heated & cooled over and over again. Located under the intake manifold (I seriously hope the engineer that put it there is shot). It causes a slow leak that doesn’t change performance or throw any codes, but will cost you dearly in G12 coolant. Coolant will drip down around Bell Housing (it will actually accumulate inside the bell house and slightly hinder your TCC) and appear to be a much more serious leak than it is from the underside of the car.

4) Fix Oil Leaks. Don’t freak out if your car leaks a little bit of oil (as long as it’s not burning blue smoke out the exhaust) There should be a little accumulation of oil at the bottom of the turbo feeds connecting to the intercoolers, but not a lot. The DOHC Audi V6’s are notorious oil leakers. Here’s why: The crank case has a breather attachment connected to it which is known to become clogged over time. The “Spider Hose” as its known, gets blocked with oil debris, along with the PCV valve connecting the brake boost to the spider hose and the suction jet pump which connects the brake boost to the intake manifold. All three get clogged with crap over time (due to over engineering of course) and create pressure in the crank case. The only place for it to go is out of your valve cover gaskets and into the intake system. Use some carburetor cleaner or 91%-100% iso alcohol to clean the suction jet pump & PCV valve, the spider hose needs replacing. I’ve seen a few people simply change the circle part that connects to the Y pipe, but I’m an advocate of fixing problems permanently rather than temporarily. If your Auxiliary water pump needs to be changed take care of all these in the same rip, also be sure to replace any 3.5mm vacuum lines in the process or any damaged vacuum lines for that matter. You can also purchase an aftermarket oil cap that vents to prevent further pressure build up. Once the pressure is under control you must replace the Valve Cover gaskets. When you’re doing those might as well replace the cam chain tensioner gasket & half moon seal. A special Audi/VW tension release tool is necessary for this. If these are all done properly & you still leak oil you may have the fore signs of failing turbo’s or a damaged/leaking turbo oil feed/return line or even worse problems.

5) Inspect suspension components. Any cracked or excessively worn bushings are probably a sign of needing to replace control arms or tie rod ends. The steering racks don’t commonly have problems (not as common as the Aux pump/TCC), but inspecting the boots on the pinion ends for tearing/not being fully connected is important. Replacing these before road gunk ruins your steering rack is important. Bearings aren’t as common failing either, but if need be, be sure to replace two at a time even if only one is damaged. Inspect CV boots at the beginning and end of each axle arm. If it is torn simply replace the entire axle arm (Only costs $90.00 brand new each) the CV boot repair kit won’t fix internal damage and will cost more than half the price of a new axle arm. It’s also much faster to change out than repair. When all of that is in order, inspect each rim on the inside for bends or cracks. The spare tire in the trunk should have an actual rim on it, so you got one freebee (unless it’s been swapped already). The Quattro has an all time 4 wheel drive system, therefore changing one tire at a time will simply throw the alignment and balance off. Follow these steps:
a. Inspect/Repair rubber boot on ends of pinion
b. Inspect/Repair inner tie rods
c. Inspect/Repair outer tie rods
d. Inspect/Repair control arms
e. Inspect/Repair bearings
f. Inspect/Repair rims
g. Replace all 4 tires
h. Have the tires balanced & aligned
For the rear wheels it’s not so complicated, make sure the rear differential isn’t leaking, if it is replace the seals and swap the fluid. Inspect any suspension linkage and deal with it accordingly.
6) Remove/Disable headlight washer pumps. Completely useless feature (it had to be done to make HID lighting legal in the states though) But now it’s in our hands so chop chop. They will use a ton of washer fluid every time you hold the windshield wiper fluid spray down for three seconds or more. They will also cause you to lose the caps that cover them while at high speeds or covered in ice. I removed mine from the inside of the bumper and bonded them permanently to the underside. There is a mod to completely make it flat, but I’m not too concerned with the miniscule additional wind resistance.

7) Give the MAF sensor a good cleaning. I’m too cheap to replace it unless I have a CEL, but do what you please. These have a serious affect on the smooth running of your engine and how it idles. Also adversely affects gas mileage.

8) Pre-Cat o2 sensors. When they go bad you don’t get a CEL until the heating element completely fails. Sometimes you still won’t get one. You must hook your car up to a VAG COM to find out the condition. Post Cat o2 sensors aren’t known to fail, since there is a 1/16th less heat and abuse on them as pre cats. Replace accordingly.

9) If your coolant expansion tank is yellow, it’s probably time to get a new white one. It does become pressurized and it develops these cracks you can barely see that leak when under stress. Some like to glue them (which will only temporarily fix the problem) but the only sure shot with these is spending the extra money for the OEM part.

 

Hi all i recently bought an 00 a6 twin turbo the check engine light is on and my friend pulled these codes p1606 toruqe abs ecuelec malfunction. p1423bank 1 1411 air injection p1411 bank 2 flow oo low. can anybody offer anythin on these? pleeeeease

 

Good heads-up info......

 

bump bump

 

Hello, first time on site. Completly lost. Have a little prob. Have a A6, 2.7T quatro. Have replaced tires two, 235/45R 17. Inside tires are rubbing and eating out. Tires are cracked. Need to know how to fix problems. This is the third set.

 

Willkommen to the forums!

you should try posting your question in a more appropriate place, ie: the wheel and tire section. Some additional details may help too. Does your car have stock wheels? What offset are your wheels? What year is your car? I would suspect, from the what you describe, the wheels on your car do not have the right offset for the tires to have proper clearance in the wheel well. I'm not a wheel and tire expert though.

good luck

have fun

 

I would guess that you need to have your aligned. All 4 independent suspension.
I had the same problem, although probably more drastic than yours.
A flat bed tow truck had bent my lower control arm on rear pass side and i did not know it until it had ate all the tread off both my rear tires.
I replaced the control arm had a 4 wheel alignment and all is fine now.
But also as 02A6Beau said the offset plays a big part in it also.
If you have stock wheels then get the alignment checked.
2000 A6 quattro 2.7t.

 

Also. I didn't see your tire size that you posted. 235/45-17. That can't be stock. Unless you have a newer car. I did not see the year of your car posted.
My audi had 215/55-16. I changed to 17's. And went with 215/50-17.
I'm guessing they put your size on for clearance. So they could run a wider tire.

Hence the 235/45.

 

Tire work this way in case you don't know.
If lets say you have a 215/55-16.
And you want to put 17's on. Then you would have to lower the radius because of the bigger wheel diameter.
So like 215/50-17. Up wheel one size 16 to 17 lower the radius one size. That way your speedometer will be effected very little
In my case I'm off on my speedometer by 0.590%
Hope that made since?
Good luck