That would ruin my day.

 

Success! I got it apart and it appears the culprit is the water pump. However, the weep hole on top (if that is what that hole is) was dry. It seems that coolant was coming from the water pump shaft, running down the block and coming out where the crank shaft pulley is. I couldn't see behind the pulley good enough to see if the shaft was wet.

There was some oil, not wet but like it's slowly built up over time, around the crank shaft. Possibly from that little cover up there. The valve cover gaskets are leaking pretty badly, but it's hard to say that is where that oil cam from. I'm wondering if the crank shaft seal has as slight leak or the gasket on the cover. How hard is that to change out? Looks pretty straight forward, but I don't know what pit falls to expect.

The cam seals are dry, which is good news.

 

Awesome that you found the leak!

FYI, valve cover gaskets are pretty straight forward. My first time, it took me about 2 hours starting from scratch. My second time, it took me 45 minutes for both sides. Since you have the front end open with airbox and coolant reservoir off, it will take you less time.

You will need a set of gaskets and a tube of high temp sealant. You don't need to spread the sealant all over, but just at the points where the gasket is folded. You will know what I am talking about once opened up.

As for the cam seals, I recommend that you replace the front ones at least since you have that open. All you need to do is to take the cam sprockets off. Also replace the crank seal while at it. My crank seal failed after about 10,000 miles of a timing belt job. 8 hours of labor just for the dang seal...

 

Thanks hxgaser

Ouch. I'd hate to do this job only to have to go back in 10k miles later to replace the crank seal. When you replaced it, did you just replace the seal or take the cover off and replace the seal and gasket?

This isn't my pic, but what I am looking at on mine is very similar.....



It makes me wonder if that cover is leaking some. Is it a big deal to replace that cover gasket? Or should I leave it be and just replace the crank seal?

There are rear cam seals as well? Ugh. Why are there rear seals?

If I replace the front cam seals, does that negate the need for that bar that holds the cams still? If so, are there some other tools to hold the cams still?

Lastly, do I need to replace any pulleys or tensioners as a recommended service while I'm here? I'm not having any tensioner problems that I'm aware, but I don't know what common issues are with these cars.

 

you WILL need the cam lock bar to hold the cams. the sprockets will come off independent of the camshaft. it will make more sense when you do it.

as far as what else to replace? if you look on the popular parts sites at their timing belt kits (the premium, ultimate, enhanced are all different terms they use) they usually come with all the things that you will want to replace while you have the front end apart ie. thermostat, waterpump, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, idler roller, tensioner roller, cam seals, crank seal, serpentine belt....

good luck

 

Thanks Beau. I got out of this business in 96, so I don't know what the popular sites are. I'll just use the Blauparts place, I guess. It comes with instructions and tool rental.

I assume their parts are of adequate quality?

The kit does not come with that crank shaft cover gasket. There's enough oil from the valve cover gaskets and crank seal that it's impossible to tell if that gasket is leaking. Is that gasket typically not a problem?


Thanks again for all the help fellas.

 

Well, I finally got my parts and tools and got the job done. The good news is my leaks are fixed. The bad news is ghe car runs rough, check engine light on, and a strange noise from the front. Codes are PO300, 301, 305, and 1545. Misfires and throttle position sensor (pending).

So, let me go over what I did in terms of cam timing. I locked the crank at timing mark with the locking pin tool. I locked the cams with the cam bar. I replaced the cam seals, so the sprockets came off. When done with the work, I placed the cam sprockets and end pieces on the cams. Put the belt on. Put the cam bar back on. Tightened cam bolts. Removed the pin from the new damper. Pulled the tensioner pulley to tighten the belt. Removed the cam bar and crank locking pin.

I turned the crankshaft two full revolutions, lined up the timing mark on crank, and placed the cam bar back on. I placed it on the passenger side first and to get the drivers side to line up, i had to tweak it just a bit. We're talking less than a quarter inch. I watched the drivers side sprocket and it moved a tiny bit. Not a tooth's. Not even a half tooth's worth. I rotated the crank again, this time the cam bar lined up even closer.

I feel the timing was good, but maybe not with the problems i am having. I had no misfire issues or rough running before the repair, so its definately something i did.

I haven't looked into the throttle position sensor yet, it was time for super bowl and grub. It may be nothing.

The noise sounds like a pulley or something. It's coming from the front, but I can't tell where. I replaced both idler pulley and tensioner pulley.

So, what are your thoughts?

 

Sounds like you forgot one crucial step. When the cam sprockets are still loose, but not off the cam, you need to put the timing belt on with the lock bar and preload the belt with the tensioner per the spec with the pin out. Then tighten the sprockets back on with the lock bar on.

If done properly, the cams and the crank should line up after a couple of revolutions without moving at all.

 

I did preload, I guess I just did it in the wrong order. Preload before tightening the cams. Makes sense. Tough lesson to learn. Ouch. Double ouch.

If they are off even by that small amount, it will run rough and create codes? I mean, a degree or so? It just barely moved.

So, barring no revelations, at this point I line the crank timing mark, install lock pin, put the cam bar on, loosen the cam bolts, loosen the sprockets, let them settle, and then tighten again?

 

Take the tension off. Install the pin. Loosen the sprockets. Make sure they free spin. Then load the belt tension with the cam lock bar on. I don't quite remember whether it was 10Nm or 15Nm... Google is your best friend.

FYI, it will throw a code if is one or two teeth off.