I'm only replacing the Lifters on cylinder 4 to be thorough because it's having a problem. I do not see anything wrong with them. It's the valve seals I'm after because "I think" they are leaking oil into the cylinder over night and causing the misfire/detonation.I just want to have them on hand just in case. I am doing all of the seals because if one is bad...

Heres my parts list for Both heads-2002 3.0L W/O chain adjusters.

2) Exhaust gasket -manifold to Cat, $15.50
2) Exhaust manifold gasket, $13.50
2) Intake manifold gaskets, $43.50
8) Head Bolts, $127.50
2) Head Gasket, $105.50
2) Water pipe O-Ring, $3.00
2) Cam Follower/lifter Exhaust, $37.50
3) cam follower/Lifter Intake, $62.25
4) EGR/Kombi valve gaskets-OEM # 06C131120A, $19.00
2) EGR/Kombi valve gasket-OEM # 078131120K, $8.00
30) Valve Stem Seals,15per head - $52.50
2) Valve cover gaskets- $35.00
2) Cam sensor gaskets-$21.94
2) Variable timing adj gaskets-$21.94
4) Valve keepers,in case I loose one-$7.00
1) Water temp sensor, easier now than later-$14.75
4) Cam pulley oil seals,06C103085-from Audi $20.00
3) Bottles G12 plus coolant
Shop supplies
1) High Temp RTV silicone
1) Valve grinding compound
1) Assembly lube
1) Liquid wrench

Special Audi tools required;
Timing kit, clamps etc.
3452 Polydrive driver-head bolts.

It would be smart to check www.autohausaz.com for pricing I over paid for some of the above listed parts and could have saved about $100!!!

If you are only replacing your valve seals, then you do not have to pull the head. You can pressurize the cylinders with an air compressor to hold the valves up. I'm pulling the heads because I want to replace the head gasket, clean the ports and lap the valves due to a long running misfire.

TO BE CONTINUED...

 

OMG!!! That was no walk in the park.

Took me 2.5 long *** non-stop days.

What I found was cylinder 4 had about an ounce of oil in it and the rest were fine. All of the valve seals were dry and cracked as soon as I grabbed them. The valves also needed a lapping they weren't terrible but I could see minor variations. I changed all the lifters on that cylinder Just because I ordered them. The old ones weren't bad and I contemplated then just did it.

The problem has been resolved. I just need to tune it in maybe lower the torque and possibly reset the throttle angle again. I am getting 3 mpg better than when I started (21mpg now). It hold a higher rpm at stops sometimes if the A/C is on 1100rpm instead of 8-9

As for the difficulty. Well, let's just say you had better be well rounded and familiar with engines before you dive into this one. Everything went smooth for me but it was no GM that's for sure. At the end I was seeing things,having open arguments with my work lights, loosing tools and had everything out of the box. I had to sweep them into a massive pile.

The most important thing for anyone would be to read the manual and carefully mark the hose and wire connections because it's pretty busy behind the manifold against the firewall and I can see someone easily getting tripped up there.

The "Right Stuff" permitex 1 minute gasket was awesome that's the best crap ever! Thanks Jim!



Took the opportunity to change the temp sensor (of course I broke the terminal...)


Squeaky clean heads, compliments of Easy-Off BBQ cleaner! That stuff is liquid evil don't leave it on more than an hour. I can't wait to try it on my BBQ


All cleaned up, Not me just the car


Almost all of the parts that came were correct. the only parts that were wrong were the water pipe o-rings-(their's were too small) and the Exhaust manifold to cat gaskets (also too small) thankfully I got new o-rings and I re flanged my old gaskets (They were copper, NICE!)

 

Ooops. I just PM'ed you asking if you were starting this job today still or not - I just remember you mentioning the 15th a few weeks ago and that date stuck in my head b/c my wife & I have a dr's appt to find out if we're having a boy or a girl. Anyway, I hadn't seen this thread yet. Great job. Looks pretty damn involved. I've noticed the same thing as you though - it's seem every tool in the box comes out for the simplest jobs on these cars. I have a pile on the floor now!! I'm just trying anything (taking hex socket apart, trying to use ratcheting wrench on the hex part, 1/4" drive to 3/8" driver for more room, etc.). I don't remember doing that when I work on my Jeep or Camaro....

 

I dont believe that last pic is the same car

Good job man.. looks like you did it in about the same time most shops would've with a better result in the end. Now, if i could only get around to doing mine....

 

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiice!

Where did you end up getting the right gasket for that engine drain plug?

 

[QUOTE=Midniteoyl;1127792]I dont believe that last pic is the same car

SHHH! I knew you would catch that Was it the blue fire wall???
Actually mine is that clean all the grease comes off on me and since I've had it apart so many times. The gasket sealant was nice but I made some effin mess trying to figure out how to use it. WTF why can't they just use the same old cheese wiz can they always used. This can has some sort of stupid handle. Amazing car went back together fine. Gasket sealant can, not so good.

Chefro, My o-ring was fine so I put it back in. Seems to me the way that plug fits in there you could use a compression oil drain gasket too. I swear though I should have opened an auto store. South West Florida has no idea what one is. The one I used in NY I could build a car from the ground up out of what they had in stock. Here we have a nice selection of cheap oil and waxes to compliment your vehicle. No hardware, No o-rings , No nuthin.

 

Heh...

 

LMFAO.... I was about to add "Nice and damn clean looking engine!".
Jim, one of your forebearers must have been The Great Eagle Eye of the Iroquois nation.

Jack,
over there along with cheap oil, wax, and a bunch of sand you also have lots of little sheister dealers who try to make a buck selling clunkers as immaculate cars. Please don't ask me how I do know...

 

How did you get the shafts back on timing? I just replaced my exhaust shaft and followers but i dont know how to get that head back on timing before i put the T-blelt back.

 

I marked the cams before I removed them.

Look in your Bentley it will tell you how to realign them - which lobes point at each other. If you don't have one go to bentleypublishers.com and download it.