I bought the book from ZF and have transferred it to PDF. I think I can reproduce it in parts without getting into copy right issues. It is 297 pages and covers every component in detail. I plan to document my rebuild and add additional photos of the process. I will probably be able to document the substitutes for Audi " special tools " and how to make them as well.
This should be an interesting project and I hope that when I finish, my experience may help others.
Jackson

 

Good luck! Report back on updates.

 

keep the posts coming. I am also rebuilding my 2.7 as money allows (slooooow process with these cars ha ) Take lots of pics please!

 

I found the cause of my tranny woes. The " A " hub was split at the snap ring groove. I understand this is common. In fact, it's so common I had a fairly hard time getting one. Did source one from D&E automotive 259.00, comes with the shaft and hub as a unit. I also found that a support bushing in the D/E drum was cracked and another in the " C " drum. ( see photos )

 

What were the symptoms you experienced that made you do the repairs?

 

The car would only hold 1st gear for a moment, then buck and then,... nothing, as if it was in neutral. If you could get it rolling and hit second gear, it would shift through sometimes, but always fail again once it down shifted to first. It was also producing an error code and going into limp mode. DOn't recall exactly which one at the moment.

 

quick correction: I stated in my previous post, accompanied by a photo, that I had a cracked bushing in the D/E drum. I was incorrect. After questioning the professional builders at Autosports unlimited in Zeeland MI. I was informed that the " crack " that I saw was actually a parting line, as the bushing is actually split and then locks together as it is forced into the bore.
sorry for the confusion, When this process is finished, I hope to have the documentation needed for a " handy person " to complete a rebuild on their own with the confidence of a professional.

 

I have located the possible cause of my " A " hub failure. The valve body ( # 1058 427 022 ) on the ZF 5 -speed series is notorious for wearing out inside the piston bores. Once the bore has worn sufficiently, too much pressure is allowed to be applied to the clutch/brake pistons. The " A " clutch, must be the weakest link. There are several key components that must be inspected very carefully when rebuilding these units. Failure to correct these issues will leave you without reverse, no first gear or heavy " thud " when down shifting and the possibility or rupturing your " new " A hub. Older trans. must also be fitted with the updated pressure relief spool for greater reliability and smooth shifting.
Here's a photo of the wear on the inner bore of my valve body.

 

my 5hp24a on A8q is doing the samilar thing: drives fine when cold,start to slip at 2-3 up shift after warmed up. After the tranny got hot enough, it will have a super slow shif into 1st,and then goes to limp mode.

ATF was balck, so i changed fluid and filter, cleaned all solenoids(found some aluminum flakes jamed in the #1 pressure control solenoid). Everything i done, wont help at all, and fresh fluid goes black in two monthes.

I almost sure that there is some hard parts failure causes clutch to burn out, but can't get valve body from ZF distributors at all. ZF willing to build me a new tranny for almost 5000 canadian dollars(plus shipping and duty,tax...ext) instead of sell me a valve body.

so how do you guys get your valve body? is there any differences on 5hp24a's with differen transmission code?

How about clutch clearence? i've heard than 5hp24a have high clutch clearences for smooth shift, is possible to decrease the clutch clearences in order to make the tranny
last longer and good for performance driving?

 

The valve body is available for about 450.00 from D&E automotive products. There's also a place in OK, USA that remanufactures these units for rebuilders in the US ( can't remember the name ), but they are hard to find sometimes. To know exactly which part # you need, check the casting on the valve body section itself, or consult the spare parts catalog for you specific vehicle, it will be 1058 427 329 ??? , something of that nature. As for clearences, the general rule is: better a little loose than too tight.
If you planning a rebuild, I can send you the detailed info., with the manual. I should be able to send it a little at a time through email or ship you the disk directly. Perhaps 3-8 dollars would cover the shipping, disk and case costs.
The transmission can also be purchased through Autosports unlimited in Zeeland Michigan for 2500.00/w. warrenty. Please ask for Kim @ ext. #1. My trans. is currently there waiting to be dyno-tested ( 150.00 ) on their machine, to make sure I did everything right before installing it back in the car.