1998 a8 4.2 upper oil pan removal advice
#2
Upper oil pan replacement clearance
Hi There,
Just so happens I'm doing this job right now. Mines an ABZ 4.2 with 32v and I've got nearly all the bolts out ready to drop it.
The upper oil pan doesn't look like it will clear the cross member of the subframe so I'm going to jack the engine up to make it clear. I reckon I need three inches to do it.
The engine is cradled by the sub frame so I'm just going to undo each of the two mount bolts, jack it up and shim a piece of wood under each mount til I get clearance to remove it.
I'm pulling it as the engine makes a slight rod knock from idle when the engine is hot. I'm pretty sure that's what it is, so my plan is to remove and inspect, then plastigage the rod bearings to see what they look like/oil clearance is. If the crank aint boogered, I'm going to throw in new rod bearings and call it a day.
Sure beats removing an engine...
I should get to trying to make the upper oil pan clear the cross member either thurs or Saturday. I'll let you know if it can be done - I think it can. Heck I jacked the engine up to get the oil cooler out and it was fine.
Not sure if you're aware, some of the bolts are a pain to get to. Buy some long reach ball hex tools and a really good 6 point 3/8 socket set. One of the lower trans bolts on the driver side is a pain in the **** to undo. Hardly any clearance but it is possible. Make sure that hte socket is fully seated.
I'll take some pics at some point.
Just so happens I'm doing this job right now. Mines an ABZ 4.2 with 32v and I've got nearly all the bolts out ready to drop it.
The upper oil pan doesn't look like it will clear the cross member of the subframe so I'm going to jack the engine up to make it clear. I reckon I need three inches to do it.
The engine is cradled by the sub frame so I'm just going to undo each of the two mount bolts, jack it up and shim a piece of wood under each mount til I get clearance to remove it.
I'm pulling it as the engine makes a slight rod knock from idle when the engine is hot. I'm pretty sure that's what it is, so my plan is to remove and inspect, then plastigage the rod bearings to see what they look like/oil clearance is. If the crank aint boogered, I'm going to throw in new rod bearings and call it a day.
Sure beats removing an engine...
I should get to trying to make the upper oil pan clear the cross member either thurs or Saturday. I'll let you know if it can be done - I think it can. Heck I jacked the engine up to get the oil cooler out and it was fine.
Not sure if you're aware, some of the bolts are a pain to get to. Buy some long reach ball hex tools and a really good 6 point 3/8 socket set. One of the lower trans bolts on the driver side is a pain in the **** to undo. Hardly any clearance but it is possible. Make sure that hte socket is fully seated.
I'll take some pics at some point.
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