I have exactly the same cold start idle bounce on my 2000 A8 as described in this old thread.

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/aud...-times-141756/

This has ocurred off and on for last couple months, getting worse as temperatures drop. The only code that showed up was P1141 but no CEL. Up till last few days when bounce getting bouncier, the CEL did come on.

1141 is the only code I got. Not the 1564.

I cleaned the MAF sensor a couple weeks ago and cleaned/oiled KN filter but did not stop the surge. Thinking it might be a vac leak, I replaced all vac lines. Still have surge.

I read somewhere a dirty TB might be the cause but I'm not sure how to clean and don't want to take it off because then I'll need to do adaptation. today, I'm going to disconnect the MAF just to eliminate the MAF as the problem. Since it can run without the metering by the MAF, I'm going to spray Carb/TB cleaner into the TB. Probably have some sitting inside giving it a little gas to keep it runnnig while I spray.

Any thoughts on whether this is recommended or not?

As part of the above post it references a cam tensioner circuit and cleaaning contacts. I'm not sure where these pictures are referencing.

Any thoughts appreciated.

 

Post up a complete Auto-Scan please, a single DTC (or worse "p" code) is of little value and there is always more to the story as shown by the scan.

Good old fashioned elbow grease and carb cleaner will make a TB look like new.
I wouldn't be scared of removing it - the TBA takes about a minute to do.

My recommendation would be to take off that K&N and put it in the trash where it belongs.
We have historical reports of MAFs and sensors getting fouled by the oil and the GIANT particles of dirt it lets in.

If it runs, or runs better, without the MAF I'd be on the search for vacuum leaks and probably change the MAF.
You'll need to log fuel trims and MAF readings to tell for sure though.
Spraying carb cleaner is a good way to find the leak.

Have a look at this video:

 

Thanks for the quick reply. All I have is a simple OBDII reader. Don't have Ross Tech software, etc so I can't do TBA. However, it won't run with the MAF disconnected. It will start but dies in a few seconds.

When you say, "if it runs", does that mean it should not run with the MAF hooked up? I have the big tube disconnected. Reaching into the TB with my finger produces some soot but it's not all black or anything.

Since I'll have to take it to a shop to do the TBA, I'm not certain if I should take the TB off to clean and then take to shop for TBA Monday?

I did find the plastic side cover on the TB as pictured on the old post. Does it make any sense to take the cover off and clean the contacts as noted in the old post?

 

Also, does the fact that it will not run with the MAF disconnected mean the MAF is good?