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2007 Audi Q7 Amp Fried by Water

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  #11  
Old 04-08-2015, 05:56 PM
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You can install a used amp but will still need to take it to the dealer to remove the component protection on the amp online and possibly code it correctly. However this doesn't cost nearly 1/4 of what they would charge.
I still have 3 amps in working good condition if any one is interested. $450 shipped obo.
 

Last edited by AudiTech028; 05-18-2015 at 08:03 PM.
  #12  
Old 04-08-2015, 09:19 PM
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Not to be the a$$ here but,,,,,cleaning the sunroof drains is part of the Audi factory scheduled maintenance every 35,000 miles.
Just to second the above post, the amp does have to have the component protection "turned off" and the VIN programmed in before the amp will work.

Not a problem here in the USA but at Audi training they said all the modules have component protection because module theft is a big problem in Europe where the vehicles are built. Result? Everyone else has to suffer because of it. JMO.
 
  #13  
Old 04-09-2015, 10:01 AM
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Thanks for your responses, guys. I found a local guy who's made a whole business out of repairing the amps. He fixed it and re-installed last week. Working fine. He'll be back to clean and fix the drains.
 
  #14  
Old 04-10-2015, 02:41 PM
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hehehe, you get lucky!
i try to repaire mine, findout about 20 connection problem on board and fix them and still no go... i buy new one...
 
  #15  
Old 06-13-2015, 11:34 PM
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I am starting to have problems with my amp and feel it is related to a water leak. I have a 2009 Q7 and need to know where these water drains are that everyone is talking about. Are they in the sun roof well and can they be blown out with compressed air? When it rains I see water running down the right rear inside panel where the amp is located. Thanks everyone
 
  #16  
Old 06-14-2015, 11:57 AM
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The drains are in the sunroof channel (well). Look for the holes in the corners. You can use compressed air BUT,,,,,,,you run the risk of blowing the drain tubes off that way and reattaching requires dropping the headliner. When I was an Audi tech, Audi sent a tool to clean them. Kind of a steel braided cable with a small ball on the end (to keep it from snagging). We'd run the cable down the tubes to clear the debris and then air at low pressure (maybe 30 psi). The cable was roughly 1/8" diameter if I remember correctly. I'd think you could make one by getting a length of cable (technically wire rope I suppose) from the hardware store and crimping something like a fishing line weight to the end.

OR, I've heard you can also use 10 gauge electrical wire to snake the drain tubes.
 
  #17  
Old 06-14-2015, 06:08 PM
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Default Q7 water and amp problem

Thank You soooo much aspen79, I have been having the hardest time trying to understand where water can enter the cabin. I have treated the roof seals to improve there sealing abilities and cleaned the channels but I never could see these drain holes till your response. Now what I am wondering is if the tube is disconnected or leaking inside the cabin and all the water that enters the drain is actually being directed into the cabin onto the rear electronics and amp. Why did an automotive engineer not think of putting a removable screen or filler on these drains that could easily be clean at service time to prevent such problems! Oh, wait thats too simple, only a hands on mechanic or do it yourselfer would think that simple. What do you think about just plugging those drain hole up at the top so as to not let water in the tubes at all, would the sunroofs seal good enough when they are close and let the water just dry up over time that accumulates.I know older cars never had drain line for sunroofs. Also, do you know of a place I can get info to removing panels to get to my amp, i have a bad feeling it's on its way out and where I can get one of those fiber optics loops? Thanks again for taking the time to share with me. Are you from Colorado by any chance, I am.
 
  #18  
Old 07-13-2015, 08:49 PM
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Default Fixed Q7 Roof Leak and Fried Amp

All,

I recently had this problem and did not want to pay the $2500 dealer charge to have this fixed.

To remove the Amp: Go to YouTube: Audi Q7 Bose Amp Removal and Location video by Carlos Gomes. This is a great detailed video on how to find and remove the amp.

I removed the amp and installed a Fiber Optic Loop while I searched for a new or refurbished Amp. (I have the loop now, if anyone is interested).

To repair the amp I found a person on eBay: Seller -- ORTIZR500 for $360.00
Paulison Corporation Services
319 Paulison Ave., Passaic NJ 07055
Ed@paulisoncorpserv.com
Ed Dominguez -- 862-849-8799

Ed is great, took my phone call and answered my texts -- great service and quick turnaround!!! Another great thing is that by repairing your own cars amp you do not have to go back to the dealer to have it reprogrammed.

To install the Amp: Go to YouTube: Audi Q7 Roof Liner Removal video by Carlos Gomes. Note: you have to follow his first video and remove both side panels before removing the liner.

Also, you do not have to remove the entire roof liner, just enough to get access to the two rear drain tubes. Purchase some high quality silicone sealant and cover the connections completely and let the caulking cure completely before reinstalling everything.

Done and the Radio works great!!!

I hope this helps, I was frustrated for about 6 months trying to find a solution. Removal and replacement of the panels and liner is really easy once you get over the fear of tearing your 50k vehicle apart.

Anthony
 
  #19  
Old 03-13-2016, 12:47 PM
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Default Bose amp circuit board clean up - Now it works!

Hi,
This is my firs post in this forum and I want to share my experience when I got a dead Bose amp fixed quite easy. I have read a lot of threads regarding this topic, blown Bose amp, dead MMI etc. I have a 2007 Q7 and my Bose amp started to short the battery after a car wash. The MMI died at the same time. A few hours after the car wash the battery was drained. The car didnīt start. I measured the the voltage and it was just 5V. When removing the 30A fuse to the Bose amp the voltage jumped back to 12V approx. Aha the problem is related to the Bose amp.

I removed the Bose amp module according to a very helpful Youtube clip produced by CMG Video. With the Bose amp removed I unscrewed the circuit board housing and hence the circuitboard. I was obvious that water has started corrosion on several parts of the circuitboard. I started cleaning the corrosion off using acetone and cotton tops. It took me about 45 minutes to clean the whole board and I could see that no components seemed to be fried. After remount the circuitboard in the housing I connected the Bose amp module to the car again. When started the car I was happily surprised that the MMI and stereo sound was working again.

The root cause to the corrosion is water leakage. I haven't fixed that yet. When I remount the Bose amp module I put a plastic cover (1mm plastic plate) on top of the Bose amp module so water flows around the electronics. Maybe I will remove the PCB again and put a PCB coating on the circuit board in order to avoid corrosion.

Good luck fixing your fried amps!
/Johan
 
  #20  
Old 03-14-2016, 07:08 PM
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I recently had this problem and did not want to pay the $2500 dealer charge to have this fixed.

To remove the Amp: Go to YouTube: Audi Q7 Bose Amp Removal and Location video by Carlos Gomes. This is a great detailed video on how to find and remove the amp.

I removed the amp and installed a Fiber Optic Loop while I searched for a new or refurbished Amp. (I have the loop now, if anyone is interested).

To repair the amp I found a person on eBay: Seller -- ORTIZR500 for $360.00
Paulison Corporation Services
319 Paulison Ave., Passaic NJ 07055
Ed@paulisoncorpserv.com
Ed Dominguez -- 862-849-8799

Ed is great, took my phone call and answered my texts -- great service and quick turnaround!!! Another great thing is that by repairing your own cars amp you do not have to go back to the dealer to have it reprogrammed.

To install the Amp: Go to YouTube: Audi Q7 Roof Liner Removal video by Carlos Gomes. Note: you have to follow his first video and remove both side panels before removing the liner.

Also, you do not have to remove the entire roof liner, just enough to get access to the two rear drain tubes. Purchase some high quality silicone sealant and cover the connections completely and let the caulking cure completely before reinstalling everything.

Done and the Radio works great!!!

I hope this helps, I was frustrated for about 6 months trying to find a solution. Removal and replacement of the panels and liner is really easy once you get over the fear of tearing your 50k vehicle apart.

Anthony[/QUOTE]


I really need a fiber optic loop while mine is being repaired, where can i get one from??? Are you selling yours???
 


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