On October 25, 2013 I took my 2007 Audi Q7 in for services because my battery keeps dying, I took it to Criswell Audi in Annapolis, Maryland. After the dealer ran test on my truck, the deal determined that I needed a new battery. Prior to taking my truck to the dealer, I brought a new Die Hard battery from Sears. I had 2 different Sears services Departments test my “New” Die Hard battery; both Sears locations stated that the battery was “Good”. Criswell Audi said that I needed a new battery, so I brought “another” battery, this time from Criswell Audi, total bill, $814. I went to pay and pick up my Q7 and my truck would not start on the dealer’s lot. Battery dead, I’m having the same issue.

Audi did some more testing on my truck and said that the Factory Stereo Amplifier is/was draining the battery. I said to the dealer “You guys said that the battery was the issue, now you are saying that the Amplifier is draining the battery. How do I know if replacing the Amplifier will fix the issue?” The services advisor guaranteed me that the Amplifier was the cause of the battery drain. The dealer replaced the Amplifier, total bill, $1283. I went to pay and pick up my Q7 and my truck would not start on the dealer’s lot. Battery dead AGAIN, I’m having the same issues. $2100 of work done to my truck by Criswell Audi and my truck is still not fixed.

November 25, 2013, my truck was still on the dealer’s lot with a battery drain issue. NOW, the dealer is stating that the Factory CD Changer is draining the battery, the dealer recommended replacing, cost $1240. I told them to stop working on my truck, I’m getting ripped off. I called Audi of America to complain. Audi of America told me to get a second opinion. I picked up my truck to get a second opinion and I notice a few things wrong with my truck. I ask the dealer to restore some of my features that I lost. The features that I lost are my battery level setting, rear climate control monitoring from inside the MMI, windows settings, and my system settings. The area where the amplifier is located, it’s a part that’s lose, I took pictures. I got charged to restore my setting, but the work was not done, it’s on my bill. Criswell said that another dealer is the cause of the lose part, before I brought the car.

Len Stoler in Owings Mills, Maryland has my car for the second opinion. The CD Changer is not the cause of my battery draining. The ignition switch was tested, both are not the cause of my battery drain. As of December 17, 2013, the dealer STILL has my truck with no answers to why my battery keeps draining. This is unacceptable from a dealer. I haven’t been charged by Len Stoler but Criswell charged me $2100 for testing and parts and the car is still not fixed. This is unacceptable from a dealer.

 

If someone have any answers to why my battery keeps dying please jump in.

 

I am having the same issues. But mine started with the amp. the back sun roof leaks, common problem with these, water gets to the amp and shorts it out. My mmi went dark. Lost radio controls, rear back up camera, and phone. Instead of replacing the amp i got a fiber optic loop for 25 bucks. It took a couple hours but it brought the mmi back up. now my radio still wont work, no sound. I have an appointment with my dealer in Lafayette, IN on monday to see what they say. my batter is still draining. took the car into the local ford dealer and they said that there is a 1 amp drain on the battery. i also replaced the battery a few weeks ago when I installed the loop. I will keep you posted on what they tell me. I may be trading it off. can't see putting another 5k into it.

 

When installing a new battery in a Q7, the battery needs to be "registered" with the battery management system. In other words, the vehicle needs to know the battery is new, what the serial number is, etc.... Sometimes that can't be done with a non Audi battery. The system just won't accept it (never did figure out the reason) and so, it has no way of calculating the battery level for the display. It can, and does, affect the battery managements ability to shut down componants to preserve battery power. Basically, the module doesn't know what's going on. I know, confusing way to describe it but can't come up with better wording (so sue me!)
The other settings, doesn't matter what battery is in it. Most is a matter of resetting them in the MMI from the "car" menu and "settings", etc, etc, etc.

Battery drain can be hard to pinpoint. There is a good way to narrow it down though. It requires access to all the fuse panels. So, with the doors and hatch open, the latches need to be closed like the doors are shut, then wait for everything to go to sleep. Using a DVOM (digital voltmeter) you go across each fuse in the vehicle at the test terminals on each fuse. Basically, you're measuring the voltage drop across the fuse. There's very little drop so that's why it's millivolts but there will always be a minute amount. Then, using a chart it's easy to convert the millivolts the meter shows to either milliamps or amps. It's set up to show mini, regular and maxi fuses and they're amp rating to determine show many amps of current are flowing through the circuit.
If I can find the chart online, I'll post it here or a link to it. Even if you can't do any of it yourself, at least you can give it to the tech working on the Q7. Not every tech is aware of this way to find draw. For some reason, it's almost like a secret that isn't shared in the industry. It's not taught in school or training. I had to run across it by accident a few years ago and it was the best discovery I've ever made!

I searched and searched, didn't find anything yet. When (if) I do, I'll post it here.