My MAF went andthe local tuner shop installed a rebuilt one.The part number ends in -A.I have been having problem not getting full boost. I'm at 11psi. The guy trouble shooting my carworks at a VW dealership andis usingtheir equipment which brought upa problemwith another sensor (I believe it was designated a letter A for its position). He said if my MAF and this sensor are getting different O2 readings it would prevent my car from running full power. I called Audi and they said the part number ending in -D was what I need. I called back the tuner shop and the guy insists all MAF's are interchangable. Who is right?

 

the dealer, there are a couple differnt versions. check out ecstuning's page, it shows a couple differnt versions.

 

I already checked out ECS's page earlier trying to find the part #. They list the top number but not the bottom one with the letter indicator.

 

I would get the -D MAF, when it works... take the other one back to the tuner shop... slap the **** out of the guy for being ignorant, and publish the story of his incompetence in the local paper the next day if he didn't return my money for parts and labor.

**Edit**
Ok... so that is a little much. I would probably just go buy one and put it in myself and forget the tuner. I would let him know that he made a mistake and leave it up to him to rectify it if he chooses. If he's worth a crap, he'll correct the situation properly.

... unless he's a real do@#bag, then go with Plan A. lol just my $.02

 

or you could make him get the correct maf and swap them and call it a day.

 

I for one know that a different size MAF can make a big difference in performance. I had my car tuned and then later installed a larger MAF and shortly had problems like backfiring and jerky acceleration. Took it to the Audi dealer and they couldnt find anything. I thought I might have had a boost leak. But I later remembered and changed back to the **** and all is well now. Just that little extra size made a big diff cuz the car wasnt tuned for it.

 

-D is the newer part no.The -A models are older according to what I was told. I also found this same -A to -D change on one of my other parts (pancake PCV I think?). I was told by my dealer that they are interchangable, and that the design changed, but it was minimal.

Basically from what I gathered -D is like -A revision 3

 

Wow!! It's good to see someone just as reactionary as me.

After a lot of finger pointing I got the tuner shop that installed the MAF to re-order the part to swap it out. The one they removed had a sticker that was marked -DX which I believe is a -Drebuilt from Audi. It supported the conclusion that the guy at VW made but until it is installed I won't know.

Now I understand the difficulty of dealing with different shops. The guy who installed the MAF deals in GIAC. He said it was most likely the APR chip. The APR guy said the program was still there but I had a code that needed to be removed and pointed me to a guy he knew at VW. The guy at VW said the code was most likely from the MAF since everything was running fine before they put it in and from what he could see from the diagnostic.

 

It may not be the MAF, it could be your wastegate or DV also. But the MAF is the best place to start with first.

 

While you are on topic maybe you can help me out with a MAF Sensor issue...Recently bought my '01 tiptronic 1.8. Is there a difference between the one sold for B5 and B6 engines? This may sound ignorant but they look and mount the same, and the guy I bought the car from had the spare. Said the CEL comes on with the OEM but runs better-and that the new one keeps the light off but runs worse. I tried both and he is correct, but now my car is hesitating and getting bad bank 1 readings.....Think this is the MAF getting worse. Just now I referenced the part #'s on the two MAF sensors online and the new one is coming up as B6 part #.....Before I try to scream at autozone, I want to make sure there is a difference.