Okay I read the forum a lot people are always talking about all the mods there slapping on there TT's mostly power mods with some handling mods.
It got me thinking the 180 and 225 TT's will get you a speeding ticket in nothing flat so why are *YOU* spending yourhard earnedmoney to mod it up.
I'm always interested in why people mod.
external mods like rims make the car feel moreyour own.
Exhuast also makes it stand out with better sounds.
Why do you do it?

I've also been looking into Auto X a lot lately. We have got these amazing cars that are built to race they love curves and eat them up at high speeds even in stock form.
How many of you AutoX or do Road Course runs?
I've been reading like crazy lately trying to see what I need to do to get into an autoX club. Sure be fun to do more with the TT then pester civics from stop lights and get speeding tickets. haha

How about you guys?

 

I instruct for ACNA driving schools and have driven 7 tracks in CA and NV. It's really a combination of a number of mods to make the car handle and perform well on the track. I've put somewhere around 3000 miles on the track with this car.

Of course, I have all of the typical performance mods, chip, intake, exhaust, etc. with a stock turbo. Running 100 octane, I've got plenty of torque to get out of the corners. I don't have the top end that the S4's do, so they get me on the long straights.

More importantly, getting the car setup to corner. You have to admit, that in its stock form, the TT handles okay, but at high speeds and track conditions it really isn't ideal. It has tremendous understeer and considerable body roll. In order to get the handling down I've spent considerable time and money in improving what the factory gave us to start with.
[ul][*]19mm Neuspeed rear sway bar. This should be everyone's first suspension mod. It will take the car to a more neutral handling condition and allow you to set the tire pressures equally all the way around the car instead of the 3 psi front to rear differential called for in the manual.[*]Koni sport coilovers, lowered 1.75 inches, set full stiff front and 3/4 stiff rear. The stock shocks are okay, but not as stiff as you would like on the track.[*]Full KMAC rear arm bushings to allow correcting rear camber and toe[*]235/45R18 Toyo RA-1 R-Compound tires to get all the power, braking and cornering force to the ground in their wonderful stickiness.[*]The next step in all of this is an alignment and corner balancing. Here is what my setup looks like. The rear alignment is somewhat more aggressive than the stock settings. Since I don't use the car as a daily driver anymore, the added tire wear from 1.8° of camber and the -1/16" toe on each side, makes the car rotate easier through the corners.[/ul]Next of all it's important to be able add some WHOA to all of the GO. That's where the Brembo GT big brake kit comes in. Add to that Hawk HPS pads on the rear and Hawk HT-10 track pads on the front. This allows you to go deep into the corner before braking (Don't brake before you see God, when you see God, count to three, then brake).

I've also added a Stable Energies Harness Bar and Schroth 4-point harnesses to keep by butt firmly in the seat.

All it takes beyond that is playing around with different tire pressures. I start out with the tires at 37 psi on all 4 corners cold. After a track session I come in and check the pressures all the way around. On a warm day I will get anywhere from 6-10 psi of pressure increase. I equalize side to side when hot, since that is where the tires are operating on the track. I will drop the pressures so they are no more than 8 psi above where I started cold and go from there.

 

I am going to be getting into it here, my first race of the season is in March up in OKC, with the SCCA. I have never really Auto X'ed before, but I know that I want to get the 19mm rear sway bar, Blisten PSS9's, K-Mac camber kit, drilled/slotted rotors, hawk performance pads, SS brake lines, before I head out. Also when it get a little warmer prob around April, I am going to purchase my FMIC. I have had some questions also... Is it better to run 100oct on the track? Is there any other mods that I should do before I head out to thetrack? Thanks

 

You need a 100 octane program to run 100 octane fuel. I don't know if it is necesarily better, but with the right program you gain about another 20 HP or so over the 91-94 programs. You'll pay anywhere from $5-7 a gallon for it.

 

I"m thinking about trying the stock class in the spring just to see how i like it before i dump a lot of money into the TT. I agree on the understear amd body roll but next to the Eclipse the TT feels like it's on rails haha.
Would the setup for AutoX be the same as road course tracks? Road course would be higher speeds then autoX cone dodging.

I've never dont anything track related with a car before so I know i'm going to make a total fool out of my self.

You guys wanna see a really funny Autocross video watch this
http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...b0247637a9.htm
It's how not to drive haha

 

I allready have the 100oct program but am waiting to put in the colder plugs before I run with it.

 

I'm accustomed to having faster cars, so as a general the STOCK tt is a bit slow for my taste....one of the reasons I was so happy that it already had a couple mods before I bought it...saving me some money....after the intake/exhaust/clutch/chip ...it will be awhile before I upgrade to the K04 turbo....being that it is $900.... at this point i'll just buy my brake kit, and rims...maybe at some point a body kit...but thats a ways down the road....

with the mods listed the car is fast enough for me...maybe i wont kill a m3....but ...it'll sure help me weave in and out of retarded drivers aaaaaaaalll day long!