Audi TT The Audi TT line, in both the coupe and roadster combines Audi's All Wheel Drive performance with the feel of a European sports car.

can it be done ?

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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 09:15 AM
  #11  
ericcota2003's Avatar
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oh and just for fun i put the full kmac kit in and the dealership was impressed because it made the alignment much much easier i guess. the rear gets tricky. but if money is an issue a half kit would be fine
 
Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by ericcota2003
i started with the front as low as i would go on the coilovers and the rear slightly higher and the front tires which were new were rubbing bad on the strut.
whatever you do, your ride heigth has to be right. If your front is lower than the back, your gonna have problems. Stepping on the brake will give you serious brake dive, and your front end can actually make contact with the pavement and make the car hard to handle under braking or in turns. The front should always be a little higher than the back. If your going to go with coilovers, have them dialed in by a professional. Having the car corner balanced is the way to go. So when your in the tuning process with the suspension, the goal should be a drop that is done correctly. This has nothing to do with inches+ or -. I couldn't tell you how many "inches of drop" I have. But I can tell you that it was done correctly. I don't ever need to go any lower.

As for the Kmac, I have a 1/2 kit in the rear, and it still eats the **** outta my tires! If you have the money, or you can find a good set get adjustable control arms. If your gong to buy a kmac, buy the entire thing. Just doing the bottom isn't really a good idea. Take my situation for example. as my coilovers have settled a little bit, I'm now a little lower. So I should have gone with a full kit. I go through back tires every 6 months.
 
Old Oct 9, 2009 | 11:06 AM
  #13  
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[QUOTE=warranty225cpe;1137501]whatever you do, your ride heigth has to be right. If your front is lower than the back, your gonna have problems. Stepping on the brake will give you serious brake dive, and your front end can actually make contact with the pavement and make the car hard to handle under braking or in turns. The front should always be a little higher than the back. If your going to go with coilovers, have them dialed in by a professional. Having the car corner balanced is the way to go. So when your in the tuning process with the suspension, the goal should be a drop that is done correctly. This has nothing to do with inches+ or -. I couldn't tell you how many "inches of drop" I have. But I can tell you that it was done correctly. I don't ever need to go any lower.


when i installed them i wasnt rushing but when i did it i assumed that the adjustments would be the same in the front as the rear as far as height. well i was wrong the front is opposite so thats why it sat lower. Right now the car sits pretty level and no rubbing. I am having it corner balanced when i get my tie rod end replaced as its junk i think.
 
Old Oct 9, 2009 | 12:31 PM
  #14  
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nice. balance is everything
 
Old Oct 9, 2009 | 05:35 PM
  #15  
achTTung's Avatar
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I think Becca posted a pic of my car in its "everything as low as it will go" stage from H2O last year.

Stepping on the brake will give you serious brake dive, and your front end can actually make contact with the pavement and make the car hard to handle under braking or in turns. The front should always be a little higher than the back
If you have decent suspension, the front will not dive under normal driving. If you have suspension at all, its unlikely that it'll dive that much, and I've NEVER seen a car dive enough to kiss pavement. As for part two, its called rake, and generally you would set the front a little lower than the rear... not higher... Higher up front shovels air under the car, and will make it light at speed. Not good. A little lower makes the car act like a wedge pushing it down for a tiny bit more traction at speed.

The 3 problems I did have with my car as low as it would go is that I bounced my oil pan off of everything (it was less than 2" off the ground sitting still), I chewed up inner CV boots on the drivers side for an unknown reason, and until I made a slight adjustment to I had carved a line around the inner sidewall of the passenger side tire with the adjustable spring perch. Only pass side, drivers side had room.

My setup is KW Variant III coilovers, and Ground Control 'race' camber plates. The camber plates themselves offered a decent drop much to my surprise, but thats an extreme measure (over using the drop in plates), since it requires a lot of cutting.

couple of my pics:
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...DSC_0027-1.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...T/DSC02500.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...T/DSC02379.jpg
 
Old Oct 9, 2009 | 06:18 PM
  #16  
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not for the best handling... or tire life

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Have to jack my car way up just so i can shove massive wheel and tires on

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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:58 PM
  #17  
achTTung's Avatar
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or oil pan life.

 
Old Oct 9, 2009 | 10:59 PM
  #18  
warranty225cpe's Avatar
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Those wheels are gonna look good.

I hit pavement in my crx with brand new coilovers on it. So yeah it happens. But it was more of a scrape than a smash.
 
Old Oct 10, 2009 | 11:27 AM
  #19  
achTTung's Avatar
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99% of the time I got lucky, and only drove one of the fat bolts that hold the subframe on into the ground. Lovely shower of sparks at night. Not sure how hard it'll be to loosen/remove the subframe now though, as the head of those bolts are bent about 15°. Oops!
 
Old Oct 10, 2009 | 07:17 PM
  #20  
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my stupid *** just left some marks on the the street since it was a bigger drop off than i hoped. Had to jack up the side in the grass and slide a cylinder block under the tire to move it back onto the street. The compromises we make to live the low life
 



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