Does this sound right to you?
Yeah that would of been best, but you know my luck.
As far as the one time use motor mount stretch bolts I have no clue. I do know that the alternator was taken out.
This leads me to believe they worked from the top... I hope that's what it means... What could happen if they tried to reuse these?
I don't think they mixed the coolant with any water. I popped the hood and it looks like the whole over flow tank is filled.
It was dark and raining I didn't get a real good look, I'll let you know though.
I have noticed that the car warms up faster... which is nice.
I also asked him to look at my front suspension, because it was thought that my strut bushings were bad.
He said everything looked good but he drained the PS fluid and added new. Now instead of pulling to the left (because of one new tire) it pulls to the right!
They also cleared my service now light which was for an oil change... I wanted to leave it there so that when I did get an oil change it could be reset (those fuggers)!
As soon as it decides to stop raining I'm doing the oil change myself. I also want to try and look at the work he did.
As far as the one time use motor mount stretch bolts I have no clue. I do know that the alternator was taken out.
This leads me to believe they worked from the top... I hope that's what it means... What could happen if they tried to reuse these?
I don't think they mixed the coolant with any water. I popped the hood and it looks like the whole over flow tank is filled.
It was dark and raining I didn't get a real good look, I'll let you know though.
I have noticed that the car warms up faster... which is nice.
I also asked him to look at my front suspension, because it was thought that my strut bushings were bad.
He said everything looked good but he drained the PS fluid and added new. Now instead of pulling to the left (because of one new tire) it pulls to the right!
They also cleared my service now light which was for an oil change... I wanted to leave it there so that when I did get an oil change it could be reset (those fuggers)!
As soon as it decides to stop raining I'm doing the oil change myself. I also want to try and look at the work he did.
The service light is reset from the cluster (you can do it yourself) and has nothing to do with any sensors. Its basically a 10k mile interval from the factory but with the VAG-COM you can reset it to whatever interval you want.
To reset the service light (with the car running) you hold the left button on the cluster and press the right button. Now while still holding the left button you turn the key to off, then back to run and it should be reset to 10k miles. The process goes something like that, its just from memory though I can do it no sweat sitting in the car.
To reset the service light (with the car running) you hold the left button on the cluster and press the right button. Now while still holding the left button you turn the key to off, then back to run and it should be reset to 10k miles. The process goes something like that, its just from memory though I can do it no sweat sitting in the car.
Thanks, I know it's in the manual. I always thought the service light had to be on in order to reset it... guess not.
I was on my way home from work tonight and while on the highway heard some horrible squealing coming from the front drivers tire.
Sounded like the wheel was going to pop off then stopped as I slowed down... scary!
Anyway I think I'm going to have to cover her up for awhile, and catch a ride with co-workers. Just until I can figure out/fix what ever is going on.
I really regret bringing my car to that shop... Live and learn right
[&o]
I was on my way home from work tonight and while on the highway heard some horrible squealing coming from the front drivers tire.
Sounded like the wheel was going to pop off then stopped as I slowed down... scary!
Anyway I think I'm going to have to cover her up for awhile, and catch a ride with co-workers. Just until I can figure out/fix what ever is going on.
I really regret bringing my car to that shop... Live and learn right
[&o]
Yeah, I've been to two so far... not entirely happy with either... gonna try a couple of VW specialists next and hope for the best.
Hope you find what's ailing your silver girl, Nurse Becca
Hope you find what's ailing your silver girl, Nurse Becca
Got some info for the stretch bolts.
I watched the shop foreman do a complete head swap on a 225 today and the parts dept. forgot to order the mount bolts. He said in these cases he just uses loc-tite on the originals and it does the trick. Maybe this is theroute the mechanic you went to took. They ARE supposed to be replaced (as you know) but its apparantly an acceptable alternative.
On a side note I feel bad for you guys(and girls)doing your own work on the 225's. Compared to the 180 they are a MESS under the engine covers.
I watched the shop foreman do a complete head swap on a 225 today and the parts dept. forgot to order the mount bolts. He said in these cases he just uses loc-tite on the originals and it does the trick. Maybe this is theroute the mechanic you went to took. They ARE supposed to be replaced (as you know) but its apparantly an acceptable alternative.
On a side note I feel bad for you guys(and girls)doing your own work on the 225's. Compared to the 180 they are a MESS under the engine covers.
no, theres is most definitely some serious differences is the vacuum system and overall routing of plumbing and electrical systems.
The 225 is like a rats nest under the cover compared to the 180. I would imagine due to the reversed intaake manifold, extra charge pipe and TB placement more then the turbo difference.
Im starting to collect part numbers from both cars to see exactly whats different. I want to buld a 1.8T from the shortblock up and want to know what is useful and whats not. Hopefully, by the time its due for the next waterpump/t-belt debacle I'll have a bulletproof block and hotter head ready to get swapped in.
After getting closely in touch with the failure rate of various parts of this motor under stock power, and knowing my tendency to push limits, I want something a little more stout ready to roll when she lets me down. I figure for around $5k I can have a longblock that can make enough power to completely tear apart the drivetrain.Somethingsurpassing RS4 power levels with the right turbo.
The 225 is like a rats nest under the cover compared to the 180. I would imagine due to the reversed intaake manifold, extra charge pipe and TB placement more then the turbo difference.
Im starting to collect part numbers from both cars to see exactly whats different. I want to buld a 1.8T from the shortblock up and want to know what is useful and whats not. Hopefully, by the time its due for the next waterpump/t-belt debacle I'll have a bulletproof block and hotter head ready to get swapped in.
After getting closely in touch with the failure rate of various parts of this motor under stock power, and knowing my tendency to push limits, I want something a little more stout ready to roll when she lets me down. I figure for around $5k I can have a longblock that can make enough power to completely tear apart the drivetrain.Somethingsurpassing RS4 power levels with the right turbo.
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jasmix
Audi A4
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Feb 1, 2008 06:10 PM



