So the money I've been waiting on finally came in--and I'vedecided to just do it, I don't want to wait any longer--soafter some hard assessing and pricing and forum research, I've come up with a mod list that I'll begin and finsih ordering this week...these are just engine mods on the stock KO4..here goes:

1. Dhalback Open Air Intake
2. Dhalback ECU Chip
3.Forge FMIC
4.3" Full Exhaust (42dd into a milltek)
5.4bar fuel regulator
7.****
7.Boost Machine (maybe modshack, maybe not)
8.Full Stage 2 Water/Meth with all necessary extra components
9.Forge DV
10.Dhalback N75k upgrad valve

Suggestions, opinions, otherwise....any help to keep me from making a rookie mistake would be appreciated..if not, I figure this will keep me reeeal happy for at leeast a little while! Oh, and there will definitely be some body and interior work to go along with this, but I just wanted to divulge the engine mods right now

 

you dont need the ****... and if you get the boost machine you can keep your stock n75... yea im pretty sure thats what you should do... list looks good though

 

if you have a boost machine there is no need for an aftermarket n75

 

i would look for the closet local apr, giac, or revo dealer, instead of the dahlback(havnt heard much about it so i could be wrong)

 

1. Dhalback Open Air Intake not needed, but good filter is fine to use also
2. Dhalback ECU Chip #1 But go with something better and possibly you can use to upgrade with if you go BT
3.Forge FMIC #5 lower the temps
4.3" Full Exhaust (42dd into a milltek) #3 Go with the 42dd, but you can get a nice blue flame 2.75" for far less
5.4bar fuel regulator Not worth it
7.**** Not worth it
7.Boost Machine (maybe modshack, maybe not) #4 Iwould use a turboXS HPBC works flawless, 1/2 the cost and 1/4 the size.
8.Full Stage 2 Water/Meth with all necessary extra components #6 along with a vag cable to squeeze the remaining power out of the stock setup
9.Forge DV #2, great product
10.Dhalback N75k upgrad valve not needed

 

On the topic of boost machines, and saving money... I finally got a phone number of a retail place in the US who'll sell the metalwork regulators I'd want to use, I'll hopefully get a price tomorrow.

If all goes well, should be able to build a boost machine for about $60? If you're interested, let me know. I'm not building boost machines, just selling the main components so that we all can save some money in comparison to the outragous cost of the modshack BM. Norgren requires a $50 minimum order, so buying a bunch saves the trouble of getting charged an additional amount just to get one valve shipped if you buy it yourself.

 

Your now on "the list". Prepare to be black balled

 

i dunno i personally like the Modshack BM. not a bad item. yes it is a lot more than the otehr MBCs, but it works just fine and i like the fact i can adjust max boost and also boost onset and not just max boost like many others. when i go BT im going with electronic Boost Controller, i dont want to go and open the hood every time i want to change boost, besides they have a lot of features now. and forget N75 upgrades throwing $$ out the window.

I would also suggest a Turbo Timer, cheap and will pay for itself if nothing breaks on you.

also 4bar FPR, i went that route it helps deliver more fuel when you pump more power, but i got it with the ****. will i keep the ****? im not sure seems like my BT stuff may replace the **** and have its own housing, i have yet to find out. but the 4bar i still need for my BT so i dont see why it will be a bad idea, but you will lose gas milage.

Forge FMIC, ... no thank you ( i know its better cuz of this or that etc.) but i would save the $$ and go Tcarbon, why do you honestly need to change the IM just so that i point to the other side? just extra added cost which is a waste IMO. If TCarbon doesnt ruffle your feathers then go with APR wich is >TCarbon, but once again more $$$. but if you save $$ then you can alocate it elsewhere.

Exhaust--- i dunno if i will pay that much for it. i would get DP fine, but go get aluminized 3" for far far less WITH labour. 1.) lighter 2.) cheaper 3.) most exhaust shops will do it. im not sure where you live and how the weather is, but as long as they use sand/gravel for tracktion in the snow then aluminized will hold up for a long time.

BTW your software may call for a 4bar fpr, you should check. depends on the tuner. i gotta say tho most stg 1 tuners on stock setups all pretty much do the same Sh8t. all make pretty much the same claims too, just read up on what was done/required for the car they are "claiming" in order to reach those #s. ex. GIAC claims xhp/xtq but it says on the site ** in order to gain claimed hp/tq then you must have exhaust + green temp sensor done to car***

Snow perf stg 2 --- ooooh im drooling over this but, get a VAG otherwise dont waste your time or $$.

intake-HUGE debate, and it all comes down to preferance of performance vs looks, choose what you want just dont go VTDA. i suggest getting a drop in filter Cone or a Shroom, for now and spend your $$ where it counts. IF you REALLY MUST/WANT to have an intake, my preference is with the injen system hands down, p-flo also gets tossed around here by others check out how you like that as well.

**what is your budget, it may help to determine what you could get and maybe we can help you piece it*** just a thought.

 

just dont get an mbc from voodoo haha... i think im now going to try turboxs if i keep the tt

 

Budget is 10K....but I don't want to put all of it into engine..I've thought about a turbo kit from Pagparts...he seems to be really reasonable, compared to APR and others...just not sure if his kits come with all i need...I know they come with injectors and he can provide a FMIC and rods if necessary, but I'm not sure yet..a turbo kit sure would be easier though, and I would STILL throw the w/m kit on