Hey fellow Audi enthusiests!
--Funny story without a funny result:
I was bopping down a dirt road (doing about 10mph) headed to a charity/service project at a Boy-Scout camp whenmy little TT had the misfortune of gently kissing a rock that protruded just a little higher than the normalgravel. Well this rock popped a perfect hole right in the oil pan (next to the heat sensor) and I shotall my oil out in about 2seconds.I had her towed home for the wee fee of $230.00 and now I have a $20,000 sportscarjust sitting, leaking oil in my front drive because I can't remove the PAN!!!!

Here's the question: What are my bolt sizes that secure the oil-pan? Is there a special way to remove them? Does the silicone gasket tend to lock those bad-boys in there? I can't seem to move a thing... and I have a replacement pan just waiting to hop in it's spot. It's pretty tragic [:'(]

Thanks in advance!

 

I don't understand your question; you want to know the bolt sizes? You mean the bolt heads? How can you have tried to get the pan off if you don't know what size the bolt heads are? Have you put a socket on there and tried to break the bolts loose? There's nothing special going on; oil pan bolts are small and not therefore shouldn't be that tight.

 

There are about 10 Torx screws and some other parts. I wish i had a DIY to show you.

 

Lubrication system components, removing and installing
Oil pan, removing and installing
Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required

â—†Electric drill with plastic brush attachment
â—†Silicone sealant D 176 404 A2 [/ul]
Removing
















‒→ Remove noise insulation in the center (arrows). [/ul]
















‒Drain engine oil.
‒→ Remove oil return line -3- from oil pan.
‒Remove oil pan. [/ul]
Note:
Loosen and tighten oil pan bolts with jointed wrench 3185. Remove bolts with socket attachment 3249.

‒Take off oil pan: if necessary loosen it by striking lightly with a rubber hammer.
‒Remove sealant remaining on cylinder block with flat scraper. [/ul]
















‒→ Remove remaining sealant from oil pan (with rotating plastic brush or similar). [/ul]
WARNING!
Wear eye protection

‒Clean sealing surfaces: they must be free of oil and grease. [/ul]
Installing
Note:
The oil pan must be installed within 5 minutes after applying the silicone sealant.
















‒→ Cut off nozzle on tube at front marking (nozzle dia. approx. 3 mm).

â—†Thickness of sealant bead: 2 - 3 mm [/ul][/ul]
Note:
The bead of sealant must not be thicker than 3 mm, as otherwise excess sealant will enter the oil pan and obstruct the strainer in the oil intake line.
















‒→ Apply silicone sealant to the clean sealing surface on the oil pan as illustrated. (The illustration shows the position of the sealant bead on the cylinder block.)
‒Apply the sealant bead with particular care around the rear sealing flange (arrows).
‒Install the oil pan immediately and bolt to cylinder block. Start by tightening all the bolts by hand.
‒Tighten the 3 bolts securing oil pan to transmission.
‒Tighten bolts securing oil pan to cylinder block in two stages in diagonal sequence. [/ul]
















‒→ Remove oil return line -3- at oil pan. [/ul]
Tightening torques




Component



Nm


Oil pan to cylinder block



15


Oil pan to transmission



45


Oil return line to oil pan



15
Note:

â—†When installing the oil pan with the engine out of the vehicle, ensure that the oil pan is flush with the cylinder block at the flywheel end.
â—†After installing the oil pan, wait for about 30 minutes for the sealant to dry before putting in engine oil. [/ul]

 

Hey Timbo,
--Could you re-post please? Your pics didn't come up. Do you have a link to the website you just referenced?

thanx!

 

It's a pretty straight forward question Dana Reed. What're the bolt sizes all around the pan? I tried using a 5/8 on one of the larger bolts and the bolt began to strip. I'm trying NOT to makepan removalimpossable in the future, so I thought I'deget some information before I go any further.
And no, the bolts don't just come right out... I think the silicone seal has a more dramatic effect than just holding in hot oil; I think it locks in those bolts as well.

Thanks for all your super-great, neato help Dana Reed...[sm=lame.gif]

 

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3079240

 

FYI - German car, first guess shouldn't be imperial bolt sizes. Try metric.

 

Yeah, my Metric setis limited so I thought I could make her work with a 5/8... needless to say it was a "no go". I'm just gonna send it in, have a couple grease-monkies (with proper tools) pull it off, and then proceed to sell my possesions to pay the bill...

 

how hard is it to get a 15mm socket? I know at parts stores you can by them indiviually.