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Really messed up ! Stripped thread on oil pan HELP ASAP

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Old Sep 5, 2008 | 06:33 PM
  #1  
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Unhappy Really messed up ! Stripped thread on oil pan HELP ASAP

Ok I normally change my oil myself all the time, nothing new. Till today that is, I have the flu and thought at least changing my engine oil is something constructive (Note to self NEVER work on your car whilst being sick,) but as I tightened the drain plug this time it stripped the thread.

What can I do? I can't drive the car or anything please help.

Do I need to replace the whole pan of will a thread seal work or perhaps a larger drain plug?

Thanks Carl.
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kee
whole pan, thread seal work or perhaps a larger drain plug?

Thanks Carl.
Any well work. I suggest the entire pan, so you don't have any problems down the line. You might still be able to drive the car, unless the leak is really bad.

see:
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=111145
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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I wouldn't drive it until you know the plug is 100%. I'd hate to see you lose a bunch of oil on the road, and spin a bearing or something.

I'd start with a helicoil insert. That should do the trick. IMO, any place you're threading something into aluminum there should be a threaded insert. Aluminum is just too soft, and if a little dissimilar metals action kicks in, the parts might as well be welded together.

http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp

Check that out, see what you think.
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 09:02 PM
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I installed and oversized 14M 1.5 Drain plug for my car. It strips out and it tightened to the specified torque of 22Nm - just gotta hope that all the shavings caused by the increased gauge aren't floating around the engine.

Now I have three thousand miles to purchase ether a new pan or a product like www.timesert.com
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 09:09 PM
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I took my 01 TT to the dealer about 3 weeks ago for its 50k service; afterwards, I noticed annoying spots of oil on the garage floor. Turns out the dealer stripped the threads too; took them 2 visits to get it right.
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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Kee... probably would have been best to at least flush another quart of oil thru the oil pan to wash out those chunks. shavings blocking oil passages are just as bad as not having oil in the first place. good luck with it, maybe do a premature oil change now?
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 09:59 PM
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I really don't like the whole helicoil fix....personally I would get an oversized plus and re-tap it.
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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I used to build aircraft fuel controls. Some parts were designed with a helicoil threaded insert. Other parts used a Rosan adapter. If its good for aerospace, its good for a car. AN fittings seem to have been adapted for automotive use w/o a problem...


Not something my company built, but a good example from the net of those fittings in application.
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 10:49 PM
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FYI, http://www.unisonindustries.com/ourproducts/index.html (if you're bored)

Harnesses, sensors, switches, bellows, some generator stuff, exciters, and igniters. I had a hand in welding at least one component of any assembly listed, and there were probably at least 5 diff part numbers for each assembly. I can't even find anything about the fuel control stuff, sorta related to the switches and bellows.
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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I understand the concept, though aviation is set to strict and very high standards known as FAR's ,set by the FAA. I have an A & P Certificate. If the threads are stripped it needs to be tapped anyway, why not tap it and use a bigger bolt/plug ??? I've actually seen helicoils leak and work their way into the engine as the bolt was screwed in. Less parts = less worry. Just my opinion
 



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