Audi TT The Audi TT line, in both the coupe and roadster combines Audi's All Wheel Drive performance with the feel of a European sports car.

temp problem need HELP!!

Old Sep 5, 2008 | 09:47 AM
  #1  
bvgoosedd's Avatar
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Default temp problem need HELP!!

OK here goes the story. So i bought my car like 2 years ago. i love it!!! but when i bought the car the cluster was f*cked up. i got the car a ramsey corp, they said they would replace the cluster and also i wanted them to do the timing belt. the car only had 50k on it. i know that is early but i didn't wanna even take a chance, go figure. anyway when they replace the cluster they noticed that the car was runing hotter then it should. so they went to work on my car. they change the temp sensor. thermastat. and stll nutthin so they did my head gasket. when i got my car back i would notice that at a stop light the temp of the car would go up one notch. i ask about it and they said that it's ok. some tt's do that and no1 can figure out why. I thought it was BS but some people told me it's true others told me it shouldn't ever move from the middle. ok so about 2 months ago my car was getting really really hot so i got scared and got the car to a friends shop edge-motors. He said my head gasket was f*cked. So i had to have him do it. when he got to taking the head off he noticed that the head was all scratched up. I looked at it myself too. it was like the people didn't align the head when they dropped it back in. they just wiggled it in there. but he said that the machine shop that he uses would shave it down so it should be ok. well the machine shop got my head and 3 cracked valves and on top of that the head was cracked in 3 different places. i was like sweet f*cking more money to spend. ok so that is the history of the engine. now i just picked up my car. I'm so excited. i can't really get on it tho till 800 miles my buddy told me at edge. but i did get the forge bov 004 sounds ******* sexi. I didn't edit that cus it really is that good. lol. ok the only thin is i drove for almost 100 miles last nite and as soon as i got home CEL came on P1136. i erased it and still hasn't came on today i just drove to work 40 miles. any ideas?


Also check this out my car still moves one notch over what the hell could it be????
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 01:03 PM
  #2  
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no need to worry about codes if you clear them until they come back. Also, you dont need to break in a head, you actually need to let if rev so you can get pressure in the head to fill the lifters back up with oil
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 01:18 PM
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yea your def rite when we first started the car i was gonna cry lol. it sound like butt. and he put regular oil in cus he told me syn wouldn't let everythin set so he told me too break it in with reg oil then after 800 miles go syn. i'm not too worried about that. just wondering if P1136 is the BOV or MAF. also that doesn't worry me as much as the temp problem? is it normal?? for the temp to move so much?? i even got a colder termastat. u know that opens at a colder temp and the car still moves the temp to 105 degrees?? that isn't normal is it??? and cincy def thanks for helpin. i just don't wanna spend another 3000 dollars.
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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It could be just an air bubble that needs out of the syste or you are running the wrong coolant since you have changed everything else. You did go to a metal waterpump when you did the TB correct? My car did go up a notch at idle and then back down because i still had a bubble in my coolant and after it went away, it has been fine.

The code is a bank 1 system lean code. This is most often caused by a vac leak at the fpr or a dying primary o2 sensor, a dirty maf could cause it, but its not likely. You can always clean the maf and check the vac line from the intake manifold to the fpr and change it if needed, but if it comes back, you may have a bad o2
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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we put G12 in the car. so i guess the coolant should be good. i'm thinking the last things it could be are the fans or the radiator? but i don't know how to check either. the guy from the shop said he'll try to check it out. and i just changed the maf like 3 months ago so o2 or leak which the funny thin is he said from what my boost gauge is readin it looks like i have a leak so i guess soapy water rite? or how much vac should i have?? i have prob like 17 when at idel. he said it should be like 20 to 22.
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 02:15 PM
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It depends on the altitude. But somewhere in the 18-22in hg is where you want to be. You wont need soapy water to find a leak since that code should only come from that single 6" peice of vacuum line. It gets pretty bad so trimming it or replacing it would be a good idea.

As for the temp, you may just want to open the hood, open the coolant res lid and then just let the car idle after you have been driving it for awhile. This should let any air excape that my be in the system causing this. A min or 2 with the car at temp should be enough time. During that time you should check the fans and make sure both are working
 
Old Sep 5, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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when are both fans suppose to kick in??? i'm pretty sure the one on the driver side is the primary and the other is ssecondary or the ac fan. how do i know they are turning on when they are suppose to? thanks again
 
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