whats up folks,


lol, It's been a hot minute since I've been on the forum; I know somoe of you had messaged me wondering what happened. hehe

As some of you remember; last I was on here, I had a mean electrical problem that was driving me crazy. All that has since been fixed. Turned out, the aftermarket alarm that I had installed professionally (big mistake!) was grounding out in several places and causing some extremely difficult problems (Car would randomly turn off, battery would never hold a charge, trunk would open at random while driving, limp mode would occur at the most inopportune moments, etc etc).

Eventually, after taking the car to numerous electricians (with zero success), I took matters into my own hands and decided to pull nearly ALL the wiring out of the car and redo most of it:

Ultimately, the fix for this problem manifested itself while i was at the car wash one day:

While vaccuuming out the car, I noticed a yellow wire that was poking up near the emergency kit in the back (warning triangles, jack, lug wrench, etc)
so I took my car over to my work and opened it up and pulled out my handy-dandy tools (full compliment of 6,000 pieces; snap-on) with multimeter.
First I pulled out the trunk floor; (two torx under each luggage anchor) and I followed this mysterious wire to it's ends
One end was wired into my trunk release, the other end... well lets just say it was a very long wire. It went from the trunk latch, under the trunk floor, beneath the backseat carpeting, under the running board covers on the driver's side, up behind the kick panel (driver's side), into the dash where it was spliced into a junction, through the firewall, around the left side strut, and ended at a Hood sensor buttom switch (when the hood opened, the switch would send a signal to the alarm... AND to my trunk latch; unlocking it... I know, WTF would that be for?!)
Well about 2 months prior to these problems culminating, I installed the Water/Methanol Injection kit; and someone snapped off the hood sensor button... which in turn caused a continuous signal to go to the alarm and trunk latch (which is why the trunk would constantly unlock)
Once I removed THAT wire, the trunk unlock problem went away
While I had all this stuff disassembled, I began checking wires; and I noticed that some of my alarm wires (which btw... were competely fucked up) had serious grounds in them.
The brain box for the alarm was broken in half under the dash and had crap falling out of it. Probably another cause of my problem.
I found another wire up under the dash that had a ground.. and I followed it back under the running boards, down under the carpet beneath the driver's seat (had to pull the seat to get to it) and up into the center console where it was wired into the hand brake. That wire was a power wire that was actually wired intoa grounding point by the alarm install guys (like I said, total morons). The reason that wire had never given me too many problems before all this, was because the power on that wire was conditional based on other variables... including the hood sensor being in the "closed circuit" posistion.
With the hood sensor in the "Closed Circuit" position, normally only when the hood is open, but now continuously since the button broke off... it was feeding a direct current from the battery to ground. I'm actually very lucky that my car never caught fire from this mistake. It was only a 22g wire with an unregulated ground current flowing through it.
At this point, I decided not to take any chance and I went ahead and pulled everything even remotely related to that alarm system out of the car. I haven't had any electrical problems since.[/ul]

I just bought a new bumper though. I hit a pothole in the road back in October and cracked my bumper and the insurance company replaced it and repair the rest of the damage. However, in January, while driving down a back road in sub-zero temperature... a cat jumped out in front of my car and ripped off the entire lower right side of my BRAND NEW bumper. I was pissed to say the least.
Had it not been so damned cold out, the bumper probably would have just flexed, but because it was around -10 degrees; the bumper shattered. Being in Korea, I knew it would be nearly impossible to find a bumper here and shipping one in would be around $1,000 just in shipping cost and import tax (if it were smaller, I could ship it to the APO with no taxes).

fortunately, I remembered that there was a TT car club in Seoul and they ALL have body kits on their cars. I started emailing them asking what they did with their stock bumpers and they all still had them. I got one of them to sell me their stock bumper for $300 and I'll be gettin it painted and all that here soon.

Anyhow... there's the update, I'm sure I'll be back on here moreagain soon.


- Chris

 

That alarm install sounds real fishy. If you popped the hood the trunk would unlatch? Maybe they were going to come back later and get the car and stuff inside? And welcome back!

 

damn good to see you back chris!

 

welcome back!

Good timing too, big group buy wrapping up on water/meth kits, I'm sure you'll be innundated with PM's!

Speaking of w/m, how's yours running now? Everything straight, and making power?

 

CHRIS IS ALIVE!!!!!

Guess all that time on here was spent hunting down bad wires and connections.

 

Haha...

Yea, the W/M is still working great. I still haven't finished putting the Silicone hose kit portion in. From the vendor, the Stage 2 MAF kit from snowperformance comes ready for a stainless charge pipe... so i had to buy the kit for rubber hoses after the fact and havent put it in yet. I haven't installed the second nozzle yet either. For the most part, it's been too damn cold to do much work on my car the last couple months. I'm probably going to pull out the charge pipe and do the rubber nozzle grommets this coming weekend and put it all back together. I'll get pictures and let you guys know how it works out.

 

Nah, they knew i was shipping the car out of the United states within a week after they were done so I know they werent planning to jack anything. They just didnt care b'cause they knew they'd never see me again so they did REALLLLLYYYYYYYYY shoddy work. My Audio install that they did for me also in conjunction with the alarm install(I normally do all this myself, but had them do it because i would be on leave and didnt have time) was even worse. They built the enclosure to the wrong specs, destroyed the rear interior and covered it up with a "larger than necessary" box, and wired with shade-tree shortcut electrical work that ultimately resulted in me having to rip everything out and replace tons of crap myself. If any of you are ever in the Anniston, AL area... be careful where you take your mobile electronic work. It's okay though... it gave me reason to tear it all apart and do something I really enjoy... which is basically doing it all over again myself to my own liking. I just finally got all the audio stuff straight and I'll be finishing up the fiberglass work on the rear interior here in the next few weeks i hope. We'll see. Regardless, With almost $10,000 in mobile Audio/Video in this car... (just equipment cost. Not the botched install) I am glad that I can finally enjoy the esoteric compliment of audio/video stuff instead of having to keep it packed in boxes in my house because the electrical system in my car is fuct and wont support the equipment (In a nutshell, I finally got all the fuckups fixed from the botched install and can enjoy my stereo like it was originally intended)

Yea, Like I said before... as a lot of you know... I started having all my electrical issues while I was still in the testing stage after I installed the Stage 2 MAF W/M kit. I had lemmingwinks, Vag-Com, The W/M ... etc all setup and making 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gear runs with and without the w/M and charting and graphing out the results on excel and posting them on here when the electrical nightmare started.

When I did my W/M install... (i posted a ton of install picturesHere and results charting Here, as i do with all my mods) but if you guys remember... there werent any other people on here with W/M when I did it so I had to learn as I went. and a big thing I learned was that placement of the resevoir is ******* DIFFICULT. another thing is that the kit is setup for metal charge pipes. another thing is that since they DO NOT include the right size nozzle as part of the kit (it comes with 3 of the wrong size nozzles)... but because of that, i had to order not only the right nozzles... but also the dual nozzle kit... and the rubber pipe adapters and gravity solenoid.

Well I managed to get it installed.... but I still have not installed all the extra components that I ordered after the install when I knew what else i needed. So now I still have to pull the charge pipe out and install the adapters and 2nd nozzle... I need to put the gravity solenoid in... and I need to figure out exactly how much methanol spray volume I need so i can determine which nozzles to use.

Last time I was on here... Nate was helping me determine that... but it was still somewhat uncharted. Has anyone figured out since then how much spray I should use on the forward and rear nozzles for sufficient power gains?

I CAN tell you this... my intake manifold temps went from high 80's down to low 30's when the W/M injection was on.

btw... I had the MAF controller set to activate 10% spray @ 2.5v DC.... and 100% spray @ 4.0v DC signal from the MAF sensor.


Nate,

If you've got any new info on this stuff that would assist... give me a heads up by this weekend; that's when I'll be pulling out the Charge pipe and finishing up the install.

also... if anyone would like some "On Demand" testing done... ie: With and Without W/M test runs, maybe temp or psi monitoring... let me know.

I can basically graph out runs while capturing just about anything you want in the graph (manifold pressures, RPMs, MPH, Knock sensors, O2 sensors, manifold temps, fuel ratios, boost commanded, actual boost, timing pull, etc)

So since you're all trying to buy the kit... anyone thats on the fence and wants some real proof... just let me know what you want and I'll do a custom run for you and post the results to solidify your opinions.

Later,

- Chris

 

Nice2 see you back on.
Im in the middle of swapping out to high temp silicone myself.
Did you ever get pics of your W/M install?

 

You must have missed when he posted a link earlier in this same thread.

CLICK HERE for pictures.

 

ORIGINAL: neur0tic

Last time I was on here... Nate was helping me determine that... but it was still somewhat uncharted. Has anyone figured out since then how much spray I should use on the forward and rear nozzles for sufficient power gains? 60cc at the TB and a 100cc post ic. You will also need to run the pump at 180psi.If you run it at 150psi, you need a60cc and a 175cc. Its best to runthe pump at the highest psi for best atomization

Nate,

If you've got any new info on this stuff that would assist... give me a heads up by this weekend; that's when I'll be pulling out the Charge pipe and finishing up the install. Let me know all that you want.

also... if anyone would like some "On Demand" testing done... ie: With and Without W/M test runs, maybe temp or psi monitoring... let me know.

I can basically graph out runs while capturing just about anything you want in the graph (manifold pressures, RPMs, MPH, Knock sensors, O2 sensors, manifold temps, fuel ratios, boost commanded, actual boost, timing pull, etc) When you get everything up and running correctly, you can show everyone your timing increase/pull and iat's. You can even do a butt dyno on vag and see what it claims the diff is.