Audi TT The Audi TT line, in both the coupe and roadster combines Audi's All Wheel Drive performance with the feel of a European sports car.

What would you do? Rebuild or replace and AMU.

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Old Jul 17, 2011 | 11:35 PM
  #1  
alfabinda's Avatar
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Default What would you do? Rebuild or replace and AMU.

My beloved 02 TT roadster with 150k km on an AMU engine suffered from a broken timing belt. Head now removed, valves bent. Block shows the impact of the interference. (see attached).

What would you do?
a) rebuild old head, $1200+
b) new head $1500+
c) new(er) engine (100k km, for $3,500)

Is the block worth the chance of using again?


Alfabinda
02 TT Roadster
95.5 S6
90 90Q
89 90Q with donor 3B engine
91 90q parts car

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Attached Thumbnails What would you do? Rebuild or replace and AMU.-cylinder-1-2-3.jpg   What would you do? Rebuild or replace and AMU.-cylinder-3-4.jpg  
Old Jul 18, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #2  
cincyTT's Avatar
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From: In my head
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Check the cyl walls. If they still seem to be in good shape, just replace the head with a good used one for a few hundred $. You will just need to sand down the valve marks on the pistons before installing the head. If you have the $ for a rebuild (and time), that would be better.
 
Old Jul 18, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #3  
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same thing happend to my s4. i had 140 k on it at the time. it was cheaper to buy a used motor. 80 k on used motor with turbo's for $1200. 250 for shipping from az to wi. i got it from audis4parts.com
awesome service. they even replaced the valve cover gaskets for 80 bucks. i have 10 k on the used motor. about 50 hour removal and install. i did piggies, then got rid of the heat shields and went with dei ti header wrap. made install much easier. awesome upgrade
 
Old Jul 18, 2011 | 11:06 PM
  #4  
GrayMist's Avatar
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Default Valve marks on pistons

Depending on how much distance there is from the top of the piston to the top ring could be a problem. In the second pic I see heavy damage to the edge of the piston. This may have crushed the piston top down on the top ring. If so, the ring won't be free to move in the ring groove as it should. The problems associated with that won't show up till after you've reassembled the engine and get a few hundred miles on it.

Problems could go as far as broken ring which scores cylinder wall which causes other rings to wear and loose seal resulting in lose of compression and oil consumption.

At the stage you are at, it's not that much more to pull the pan and remove the rods and inspect the damage. At which time you could hone the cylinders, replace rings and possibly pistons, use the old rod bearings if they look ok, or replace them. All this without pulling the block out of the car. If the rod bearings look good then the mains should look even better. You'd be back to, essentially, a fresh motor.
 
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