Good news turns to bad, after long waiting for my kit to arrive, it comes today with only the pistons and nothing else, no rods or crankshaft, no idea whats happening buts it bs. Have contacted ECS to see whats going on and awaiting reply.

 

After getting in contact it appears that ecs has sent me the items in separate packages which I didnt know nor receive the tracking details, the rest of items are expected to be here within 2 days.

 

Just thought i'd update everyone on the things that have happened recently, some big things have happened, not so good things but have been finally resolved.

As first I only received the pistons of the kit, I contacted ecs to see whats happening and was told it was sent in separate packages as I have mentioned. The next package of recieved now only had the crankshaft in it and no connecting rods, was very annoyed and curious where are the rods so I contact ecs to see whats happening. ECS told me they would be in contact with their vendor to see what had happened to the rods.

In the mean time as ecs are sorting the rods out, I find out that the crank will not be compatible with my block, I have read that aeb is excluded for kit fitment and done research on my block only to find out that the kit is literaly not compatible with like 2 engines of the b5 and it happens to be mine, my heart sank finding out the news and was right away investigating my options. I was lucky that I came across a video made by integrated engineering on youtube describing the diff between the 058 and 06 blocks and they happen to mention that a stroker crank can fit on058 but will require machine work on it. Some cmall life of hope I felt.

Here is a comparison on stock and fsi crank.


You can see the difference at the bottom, the fsi crank has the gear and is slightly fatter base. I took the crank to mechanic and the news i was waiting to hear "yeah I can easily do that" I release that this is no convenient job and that pretty much no shop would do something and my mechanic telling me with confidence that he can do it no problems gave the life back in me. I have dodged a bullet with this crank and fitment but I guess my engine will be few with the fsi crank on 058 block making it unique.

Now back to the rods, finally the news I have been waiting for literally this morning, replacement rods are been shipped to ecs and then will be to me. There has been much delay in this and I cant wait until they finally arrive and the engine can begin been assembled. Will keep you posted when more info comes in.

 

Apologies for a tremendous delay in any sort of updates but... here is what has happened over the last 3 months and where I currently stand. Haven't got many pictures to show but will show some.

A shot of the pistons assembled...




As mentioned before the main issue or hurdle now was to fit the crank. We came across two issues. The first been fitting the end of the crank to the crank pulley as the crank needed the gear removed (easily done) as well as machining. We needed to machine the crank end to the thickness specs of the original crank which was successfully done, now all that was left was to shorted that end to the length of original crank which a little tricky as it needed to be perfectly straight and smooth as the crank pulley would attach to it. Even the slightest of errors in smoothing it you could see once you spin the crank, the pulley was not spinning in a clean circle but more of an oval.


However before this issue was sorted the other issue which was the crank hitting the insides of the block when rotating had to be sorted. The insides of the block were machined down to provide clearance for the crank to spin without rubbing on anything.

From here on thank fully was much smoother as the fitment and more delicate issues had been sorted and assembly of the engine can finally begin.






I haven't got any photos to show on progress on installation but have got some shots of the first time in a while that engine meets body once again..

(yes that is nugget written hahah)

later down the track the red coils and icm delete kit fitted


Shorty after the final bits and pieces of assembly had finished, coolant topped, oil topped. The car had finally had its first start up in more than 2 months. I was not their for the first start up unfortunately but I had come about an hour after it had first fired and came to see it idling. I was told it fired first go after a few cranks. it didn't have the exhaust attached nor many of the hoses around the turbo etc. Throughout the day the rest of the bits and pieces were assembled and soon the car was ready for its first drive on the fresh engine. it was finally ready!!!!! Telling the mechanic do not floor the car nor push it as its running a stage 1 tune ecu for a k03 turbo. I had warned him that it will most likely boost spike if he gives it a little. He took it for a drive and yep confirmed the car was most certainly over boosting (as expected) Car was hitting 30psi! Hood opened, wired the turbo to run on waste gate pressure at 7psi. the car ran perfectly! not a hitch, smooth acceleration, that was the mechanic driving, soon it will be my turn. As I had initially drive a different car to the mechanics, I had told a fried to drive my audi and follow me home while I return the car I came to mechanics, then ill drive my audi back to mechanics with friend as a test run.

I arrive home drop car, mate gets out of the audi with odd/bad news. Something along the lines "I think your gearbox is Fu****" IM think omg what now, I sit in the car and start driving. First gear and I hear just loud constant noise which appears to be coming from underneath the shiftier, second gear more loud noises with a constant whine, 3-5th loud noises. What on earth can it be!

I nurse the car to the mechanic (still havnt had my proper test on car!) and he drives it, shaking his head has no idea what it can be as this was not the case when he first test drove it. He also assumes its something with the gearbox. The car was to stay another night!! Me panicking and wondering! there is no chance the gearbox can just go like that but in the panic mode I was I was already planning and looking for a new gearbox. The next morning, gearbox fluid was flushed and was fine and finally good news! Turns out that the starter motor was rubbing on the engine/gearbox where it was mounted and somehow this was causing this awful noises. Problem fixed I was finally ready for my test drive!!

The car was better than I could have imagined! smooth throughout entire rev range and boost staying exactly on 7psi. The car felt like it had much more torque low end and much better response! It was quite amazing to be running a k03 tune on 7psi and it felling like it had more grunt than a standard k03 tune at 17psi. To add to my surprise the more I drove it the more I started to begin that even now at 7psi it felt quicker than it did on a standard 1.8t with stage 1 at 17psi. The car now was not even properly tuned for a 2l application nor for the higher flowing head as well and yet even on a k03 file with 7psi it felt quicker!. I was just thinking how good this will feel once finally tuned.

The car was finally ready to spend its nights where it always had before. Over the last few weeks I put some km's on the engine and changed the oil at around 50km and 5000km marks.

At around mid july when the car was back at shop just for minor checkups on how everything was going we noticed that one of my rims was pretty badly buckled when car was on hoist.. I was annoyed.. it was long coming and i wanted a new set of wheels for my car. To further add to the problem I was changing my break pads and break lines as well. I have s4 brakes installed and they just!! clear my wheels (1ml) and these pads are almost fully worn out. Im thinking crap new pads, this will push the caliper even further out and it will hit the wheel. I was right and it did! It was almost a perfectly timed coincidence that i need a new set of wheels both willingly and forcefully. I wanted to find a profile where I can reuse my tires from wheels now as they were in good condition and an awesome street tire good for wet/dry conditions. I need profile 225/45/17. I got lucky! right away found a set of bbs wheels with an offset of 35. I took a risk and got them hoping they would clear my caliper without any spacers and they did!! only just by 1ml! finally some luck on my side lol.

New problems have come up, my front hub threads were pretty stuffed so I had gone out and bought a set of 20 new bolts both for front and rear. Taking the car to get an alignment the front bolts were too big and hit the hub when tightened. The guys at the tire center been helpful suggest they will shorten them and fit them as well as re thread the front entirely. The rear ones fit without any issues. I was there for 4 hours.... but finally it had been sorted and the wheels were on and alligned.






I have since been driving the car without any issues, it has never been smoother and surprisingly faster with loads more potential! The fuel mileage also to my surprise was quite good, I would average anywhere from 400-500km in urban areas. I managed to get 800km from one tank on a long trip. I have since been slowly saving up for a new ecu to be installed, wired, tuned, map sensor, wideband sensor, E boost control. will be hoping to run eflex sensor to run any mixer of 98/e85.

Any small updates I may have I will post.

 

Shot of the S4 seats, rears are on as well..


Need to make a custom bracket to hold the rear seats locked in place as stock a4 seats lock up differently than the s4 so at this time the seats can be pulled down at any time if wanted. A hard and sudden brake can also at times cause the seats to come down, have my 2 amps mounted on the back of the seats so I have to be careful and make sure it doesn't happen until a proper bracket is placed. Must say the seats are a fair amount more comfortable than the stock a4, they are also fully motorized other than sliding the seat forward and back and finally they look so much better!!

 

Just thought I'd comment about piston slap etc if some were curious. There is minimal slap on cold starts after a cold night, by minimal I mean you could only really hear it from inside the car and you will have to drive it. As the revs climb you can hear a very minimal ticking get faster as the revs climb, cant hear anything on idle. After about a few minutes of driving it goes away once the car has warmed up a little. I have made it a habit to generally wait till the car is warmed up a little before I start driving on cold starts. Just to clarify what I mean by cold starts is only the first start up after the night and not any other cold start during the day.

 

This has been a long dead thread but thought I'd post some dyno sheets.

19psi tune



24psi tune



Both tunes are believed to be intercooler/piping restricted as its ebay 2 1/4" core with 2" piping from turbo all way through to throttle body. Already have a 3" core installed and soon will have a 2.5" cold side piping to the throttle body and have it retuned. Have got a electronic boost controller running 3 boost settings (12, 20, 24)

Also have plans for the near future



Stock k03 on left

 

Some more updates and changes since last posts. Car is running an s4 maf housing and sensor as tuner said the stock maf with vr6 housing was reaching 5v at 14psi and couldn't push the tune so it had to be done. The Bov/dv has been deleted as had many leaks through the dv, now car flutters/surges. Have got 25.4mm rear sway bar and sub frame reinforcement kit installed, car feels much more stable over standard bar. Had a new set of hydro lifters installed as was only thing besides the cams that has not been changed in the engine.

Edit: car averages around 350km in urban areas and 600km on pure highway. Have done around 6000km since the car has been tuned and has run flawlessly, f21 holding up just fine.

 

Has been a while since any post but thought I’d update some things.

have just ordered a set of race ie intake and exhaust cams as they are back in stock. My boost controller had died so boost is running 7psi atm. When the car goes back to the tuner, he will have the controller replaced and will also install the cams and retune the car.

There will be finally an apples to apples comparison to my tune on an f21 with stock cams verses exact same setup with race cams. I chose the race cams as I will be one day hopefully be pushing 500+Hp and I don’t mind the idle.

I am very interested in how the power band will shift on the current setup and will hopefully put some questions to rest. I have read and most people say you will lose on everything due to the size of the turbo but at least I can show through the results through the dyno.

The bigger turbo will eventually be put in and will utilise the cams as they were meant to be.

The car also now has a catch can setup along with removing all the hosing and piping running on the intake hose to clean up the engine bay. The maf sensor will also be moved to the cold side when the cams get installed.

 

• Here are some comparison shots of the ie cams verses stock cams.