Do what you will sir... do what you will... i am done here. You asked a question.. we told you the answer and now your pissed because what you are doing isn't good and IS causing problems. I do know how to read plugs to know if the A/F is on or not but sure I will admit I don't know everything about them.

Just ask yourself this.... if it was THIS easy to get more power safely why don't you think everyone is doing it???? Surely you are not the first to do it and im 99% sure that if you could do this and no one has ever had a problem that people would be doing it left and right and not going and getting a proper tune.

Again im done and i will see you when you come back asking why other things are going wrong with your car.

josh

 

a lot of people on here do know what they are talking about.. sounds like you just wanted to bring something up so you can argue with everyone thats trying to help you out.

 

No I'm just sick of people telling other people that there going to blow there **** up when there not. It is very very hard to blow a motor when you have a ecu that wont let you. Autouion is the only one that had a knowledgeable answer on why it cuts. Even with me saying its running perfect, the plugs are perfect, I still have people telling me I'm going to blow it up.

And yes every one dose put a MBC in. At least 80% of them and they have it set to where it wont cut on them. Most people have it set at 11-14psi on a stock tune. Go in the search and see how many people have a MBC in and tell me how many people blow there **** up. Same as the BOVs, you can use one with no problems.

This thread was for what and why the ecu cuts boost. Some one telling me to take my MBC off before i blow it up is not an answer. That is an opinion not a fact. All most every thread about this has no facts.

So lets try this again. How and what dose the ecu control. Like how much timing can the ecu give and pull. Whats the A/F limits for it. I know the ecu doesn't read turbo psi. So this boost cut is from the ecu not reading the right A/F. Which why I say the ecu is touchy as my plugs show NO sings of my A/F ratio being off. If I where to put a better flowing exhaust would that help my A/F? The O2s tells the ecu what the A/f is so would a better flow cut down EGTs and richen it up a lil?

I'm here for facts, after that has been accomplished then you can give your opinion. Don't try to make your opinion a fact. Sorry if I offended any one. Saying a MBC will blow your **** up is just (being nice) not cool.

 

Here's your question:
So... here's your sign! as Bill Engvall would say. Your issue causing the boost cut is... drumroll... a manual boost controller slapped on. So you've built other cars? Well, as you said, each car is different. While throwing an MBC on your 240sx may work fine, it's probably not going to work as well on an over-engineered peice of work like the A4. The reason chips cost so much is because they have to take all this time to adjust all these parameters and test everything for quality and longevity. The reason people buy them is... they work! Believe me, if there was a legitmate gain to be had by putting an MBC on our cars, more people would.
You say your car can adapt. This is true, to an extent. Now how do you know you're right at the edge. The last little rant you went on made you sound as if you designed our cars while conversely your original post sounded like you bought it yesterday (not insinuating you did, or knocking experience or whatever). You're talking about adding 7psi, nearly doubling stock boost levels. My guess: the motor can safely adapt to 10 psi, which is where it resets to upon cutting out. Regardless, not all problems can be solved by turning up the boost. So, sell that MBC, save save save, be patient and you can be cruising at a steady 17 psi like the rest of the community.

 

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/force...-my-motor.html

http://www.3si.org/forum/f104/mbc-horror-story-467266/

just two stories I found on the first page.

Again, I bring this up: you come on the forums with a problems and questions. Then you get mad and argue when we tell you that what you're doing is not only contributing to your issue, but dangerous, stupid and in my opinion (not fact), pretty ****** ricer. Save the MBCs and BOVs for the Hondas and Nissans, the euro cars are meant to be done up right.

 

Hey OP, I'm kinda with the other guys here on this subject. You ask why it's cutting out, then you try to explain why it's cutting and that you're not doing any damage and so on and so forth. So, if you KNOW why it's cutting out, and you KNOW that you're not doing any damage, what was the point of the thread in the first place?

My personal opinion, you're really not doing much damage to the engine BECAUSE the ECU is saving your ***. No, the engine is not going to just explode, or blow up, or whatever, but running lean on a boosted engine is bad, plain and simple. Upping the boost without increasing the fuel, and you will run lean...

Give Mike2ptzero a PM, he might be able to tell you how to mess with your stuff the right way...

 

Even if it's not running lean ALL the time Every time you get the throttle cut... YOUR RUNNING LEAN! THATS why it's doing it! SO Do that enough... something will break.

PS Thanks to the other guys for backing me up on this.... maybe if he hears it from enough people he MIGHT figure it out... Or not.

Josh

 

didnt you make a thread like this some time ago and got the same response?
do you own a copy of vagcom? do you have any idea how to tune a car like this? are you watching how much timing is being pulled? how off your fuel trims are? have you ever even touched the fuel or timing settings? or are you just relying on the shitty ME5.9 ecu to do the work for you? which it wont. do you have any idea how exhaust gas temp is related to a/f ratio, and what happens when you run too lean?

thats not a "cut". you are hitting a point in which your air fuel ratio is so off that it will misfire or knock excessively. at which point the ECU trys to save itself in limp mode, which it cant do because you disabled its control over boost pressure. so it just has to pull as much timing as it can to prevent pre detonation. it can no longer do anything to correct the fuel ratio.

ok lets explore this. he said.....
which is the same exact thing everyone else has been saying. your a/f ratio is off, the car is not tuned to spray more fuel for increased boost. you are running higher boost then the software is written for.

you just refuse to listen to the facts. nothing we can do about that. WHEN YOU RUN A MBC, THE ECU CAN NOT CUT BOOST. so making a thread about "what and why the ecu cuts boost" is irrelevant, it is no longer able to. the only one with oppinions here is you. if you dont want to listen to anyone, then dont. not my car not my problem.

the ECU advances zero timing. thats what a retune is for and why it is necessary to make more power. the ECU retards enough timing so that the knock sensors dont sense knock. how many degrees can it possibly pull? i dont know the upper limit. when you are tuning a car, you want to read the timing pull in vagcom and not have the ECU pulling more then 3-4 degrees. if it has to pull more then that, you need to back off on what you are doing. do not assume that the ME5.9 ECU will save your car from destruction no matter what you do to it.

2- **** your plugs. do you have a wideband a/f gauge? no? when you go to a tuning shop, do they read your A/F ratio from your spark plugs? no. that is what engineers call a secondary measurment. its like reading the voltage feedback from a stepper motor to determine its position. its a secondary measurement that you use to validate a primary measurement like a digital encoder (or A/F gauge). not only is it a secondary measurement, its no where near real time. now imagine that your plugs told you that you were running lean. are you running lean between 3000-4500 RPMs? or between 5000 and 6500 RPMs? you could be rich for a certain range, and then lean in another. again- no way to know.

your target A/F ratio should be in the low 13's to high 12's at WOT. you are probably running closer to 15.0:1 and have EGTs that are probably several hundred degrees too hot. though you have no way of knowing. you have not even touched fuel injection settings yourself, just rely on the car to tune itself for you.

i absoloutely have. dumb people put holes in their pistons and melt spark plugs all the time. its pretty easy to snap a rod when you go lean and detonate.

what are you expecting? a writeup on how to read a plug? its not that hard, there are plenty of writeups online already. il go out on a limb here and say that you are not the only person in the world who knows what a spark plug looks like. but il bite anyway...

timing that is too advanced will change the color of the ground strap closer to the plug body. too retarded timing will change the color closer to the tip of the strap. to figure out heat range, you look at the treads. you want 2-3 threads to be darker/ burnt, and the rest to be shiney. that means you are in the correct heat range. if all of the threads are shiney then you are too cold. more then 4 burnt threads means you are too hot for the plug.

still reading a spark plug IS NOT THE SAME as having ACCURATE EMPIRICAL DATA to tune with. sure back in the 80s before computers its a fantastic way to tune a domestic engine. this is the next century, our expensive import cars use computers for everything. computers that have sensors to tell us how the car is running. you have sensors that will give you specific, accurate data. why not use them? do it the right way or not at all. you are going about this like a mechanic, not an engineer. these cars were built by engineers not mechanics.

 

Now where getting some where. First I did say its not a problem because its not. It only cuts once in a great while in the cold. I was thinking about it and this cut is not a fuel cut. It is a spark cut. So the cut it self is not bad for the car. Now pushing only 4 more psi is not bad. The ecu will adjust timing to a point. The reason for the cut is the ecu pulls more timing in the cold dens air. The ecu has reach its limit and reads the a/f is off then cut.
What are the limits for the ECU? How much timing can it adjust?
The reason I ask is my Mazda's ecu could adjust -14 to +14. Thats allot of timing to mess around with. If the a4s ecu could do that I wouldn't get this cut at all. The a4s ecu is so touchy that it reads my a/f is off then cuts. But you check the plugs and there perfect. If it was running lean at ANY point you will see it on the plugs (at any point). Thats why I got bent out of shape when i hear your going to blow it up or the longevity of it. If that was so I would see it.

This thread was about the ecu not the cut. Like I said its not a problem. I was just trying to get info on the limits of the ecu. Don't you guys want to know this info. Its oveis you guys don't know. Its like the Mazda's ecu. I would of never been able to spray a wet 100 shot on 10.1 comp with stock internals with out knowing what the ecu will do. I had it running so fing good that I made to much hp and snapped a rod. The rods where pencil thine but still.

So dose any one know the specs of the AEBs ECU?


I wrote that before I read ^. Thats the info I was looking for (kinda). Checking the plugs is not a way to tune. I check them to make sure every thing is running right. You read a plug to check for problems then tune for the problem. The people that fried plugs and snaped a rod is crazy. How did they get the ecu to let them do that. only thing I can think of is differnt ecu or n2o.

So no one knows the limits of the ecu? The main thing is how lean will the ecu let you go? So lets just say I never said any thing about this cut and im just asking about the ecu.

 

Go post this on audizine.com in the A4 section and see what kind of response you get there. That's all I will say... Btw put a link in here to that thread.

Josh