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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 11:12 PM
  #21  
kayakman13's Avatar
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I had it running so fing good that I made to much hp and snapped a rod. The rods where pencil thine but still.
Hahaha, okay, this is ridiculous! I don't know about anyone else, but I personally consider snapping rods a sign of a poor build. Either that, or... it was poorly adjusted!
 
Old Nov 8, 2009 | 01:07 AM
  #22  
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The stock internals of the KLZE only can handle around 300whp (pencil thin rods). When it snapped is when I built it up. Lets see you add 50-100whp over the limit the rods can handle.

So get your info straight before you start making your stupid *** unknowledgeable opinions. Try to make me look like a jack *** when you have no clue what your talking about.
 
Old Nov 8, 2009 | 01:30 AM
  #23  
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The problem here on this site is there are WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY to many Dumb *** Noobies talking like they know how to tune.......

You never said what year of any thing about your car, but if it's 2000 and up here good luck....

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...ighlight=diode
 

Last edited by Beer Mod; Nov 8, 2009 at 01:37 AM.
Old Nov 8, 2009 | 07:58 AM
  #24  
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I think what Kayakman was try to say is, who would tune an engine to produce 50-100 more HP than the engine can handle? Do a little research and learn what your limits are BEFORE you try to up the power, otherwise you destroy your pencil thin rods, and have to rebuild. Why blow up the engine then rebuild, when you could rebuild and do it right in the first place...?
 
Old Nov 8, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by fastenhard
The stock internals of the KLZE only can handle around 300whp (pencil thin rods). When it snapped is when I built it up. Lets see you add 50-100whp over the limit the rods can handle.

So get your info straight before you start making your stupid *** unknowledgeable opinions. Try to make me look like a jack *** when you have no clue what your talking about.
btw horsepower doesnt break rods. torque does.
 
Old Nov 8, 2009 | 02:41 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bradtyler02
I think what Kayakman was try to say is, who would tune an engine to produce 50-100 more HP than the engine can handle? Do a little research and learn what your limits are BEFORE you try to up the power, otherwise you destroy your pencil thin rods, and have to rebuild. Why blow up the engine then rebuild, when you could rebuild and do it right in the first place...?
As for me, I knew I was going to build it up. I know the limite for the rods as I had it right under the limit for a year. 300whp on a heavy *** car is slow (for me). I did it on purpose to see what it can handle and give me the reason to start building. I had the rods. The pistons where on the why. I needed to start PP the heads. Theres a allot of **** that gos in to building a high compression high reving n2o motor.

Just ask before you assume.
 

Last edited by fastenhard; Nov 8, 2009 at 02:46 PM.
Old Nov 8, 2009 | 02:45 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ghost6303
btw horsepower doesnt break rods. torque does.
Yup you got me, calling horsepower torque.
 
Old Nov 8, 2009 | 02:48 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Beer Mod
The problem here on this site is there are WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY to many Dumb *** Noobies talking like they know how to tune.......

You never said what year of any thing about your car, but if it's 2000 and up here good luck....

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...ighlight=diode
Are there more then one AEB motors?
 
Old Nov 8, 2009 | 03:35 PM
  #29  
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[QUOTE=
2- **** your plugs. do you have a wideband a/f gauge? no? when you go to a tuning shop, do they read your A/F ratio from your spark plugs? no. that is what engineers call a secondary measurment. its like reading the voltage feedback from a stepper motor to determine its position. its a secondary measurement that you use to validate a primary measurement like a digital encoder (or A/F gauge). not only is it a secondary measurement, its no where near real time. now imagine that your plugs told you that you were running lean. are you running lean between 3000-4500 RPMs? or between 5000 and 6500 RPMs? you could be rich for a certain range, and then lean in another. again- no way to know.[/QUOTE]

You know, it sounds like you know what your talking about but for you to say "**** your plugs" is just disappointing. On all motors each cylinder fires different. When you have a high horsepower (torque) motor that difference can be very very very big. Some people will frie 1 plug and not the other but there wide band said it was ok. In order to monitor with out checking the plugs is have a wide band probe in each cylinder with (for the AEB) 4 guages. And you will need 4 EGT probes so you dont run too hot. Theres just some things you can not monitor. Like when a piston starts melting your EGTs may look good but in 1 cylinder some thing off. If you dont check that plug to find out that this is happening. Need it say more.
 
Old Nov 9, 2009 | 12:59 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by fastenhard
Like when a piston starts melting your EGTs may look good but in 1 cylinder some thing off. If you dont check that plug to find out that this is happening. Need it say more.
Not true because and engine builder knows that every motor will have a "hot" cylinder and 9 times out of 10 this is the only cylinder you need to monitor with an EGT. The rest will be cooler 9 times out of 10.

As for you original question, you are running the most boost possible on a stock ECU in a AEB motor. The fuel just isn't there and the ECU knows better even tho it sounds like you don't. Go ahead and run what ever fuking boost you want these guys tried to help and it would seem it's falling on deff ears so do what ever you want. I find it hard to believe that a big shot motor guru like your self cant even afford a basic chip, but to each his own.....
 



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