So I just got the OBD connector to work and I got a couple of codes when running a test at autozone.
It seems like both codes/problems are related to each other.
Does anyone have had these problems?
Do you have an idea of how much they'll cost to fix?

 

my car was just thowing po411 also and it turned out that i had a broken line on my secondary airpump... so wut i would do if i were u is to jack ur car up and take a look at it it is right behind the foglight on the passanger side of the car pretty much and look at all the lines u can see going in and out of it once i fixed by broken line all my troubles went away as for the other code i dont know what to tell u exactly but it sounds like it is related and that all of ur problems might be with ur secondary air pump it isnt too much of a big deal u can still drive ur car but it is something that u should fix asap to make ur car perform like it should replacing the secondary air pump in the worst case scenario isnt all that expensive if u can do it urself let me know wut u find out once u get under the car and if there are any other conclusions or problems you find related to this...the only other thing i can think of for the first code would be the diverter valve which i just had go out on me but it was only 60 dollars to replace and took about an hour because i didnt have all the right tools but with the right tools would take 20 minutes tops

 

I also have a CEL for a bad SAI and ive asked on here before about it. From what I have gathered its not that important of a part, basicly it puffs some air for about the first 30-60 seconds of starting the car to help with emissions. Correct me if im wrong anyone but I wouldnt really worry about it unless you have some time and money to fix it.

 

yes this is pretty much true but it is something that should be fixed because when i was having it would pop the code after i was driving not in the first couple minutes it does a lil bit more that what u said but not too much it isnt something that has to be fixed right away but the sooner the better because it is annoying to have your check engine light on

 

Well, you guys were right. I had a problem with the air pump and I had to take it to a mechanic. The air pump wasn't working at all so he had to replace it. He showed me the old one, it was full of water and all rusty. I had to fix it since it was causing a problem when I tried to pass the emissions test.
The guy that fixed it charged me $500 total for the pump itself and for changing it... was it a good deal?

He told me that one of the lines was all taped up, that it might be broken... he just tried to seal it very well. He told me that I should change it soon just to prevent any damage to the new air pump. He also said that the only place to get the line is at the dealer, is that true?
Any comments/suggestions?