Hey forum goers, I posted this in the New Member Welcome Area, but I figured I should probably post it in a more specific place. I also edited parts of it, so if you read it in its original form, there'll be some new information worked in here.

My name's Glen and I've owned a silver 2001 A4 2.8 for a few years now. It was my first car and I seriously loved it.

Of course, nothing good lasts forever, and one day a couple years ago I rear-ended someone going about 5 mph. The damage wasn't too severe: the alignment got off resulting in some shimmying at 50+ mph, and the hood latch got stuck, meaning I couldn't open the hood. There's some minor cosmetic damage too: a could small holes in the bumper and some paint chipping on the hood.

The car was due for an oil change soon, but no one -- not even professional mechanics -- could get the hood open (no doubt they didn't want to break and be liable for anything). I had to keep driving the car though, hoping a solution would work its way into my busy schedule.

Much to my chagrin (and due to my doing #1 car ownership no-no), a solution didn't come and the car just stopped. I don't remember hearing any strange noises or anything, and it didn't grind to a halt or do anything unusual in the days or moments leading up to it dying. My worst fear was that the engine had seized and been ruined, and the car sat at my father's house, gathering tree sap until just today with little to no hope of being revived.

However, when having the car towed, my father informed me (to my surprise and delight) that the engine actually still turns! He had a couple of ideas of what needs to be fixed, but me and my admittedly novice car expertise (I can change oil, brakes, lights, spark plugs and the like, but that's about it) led me to forget as soon as we got off the phone.

Both of my brothers are very mechanically literate (though they like to toy around with BMWs) and are interested in helping me get my car back on the road, but I was hoping that joining up on some Audi forums would help get ideas and instructions for doing so.

So: Yes, I am an idiot for not changing my oil, but alas, it was my first car and I was young (I actually just did an oil change on my current car, so I am learning to take care of things myself). From what I gather, the car (and, more to the point, the engine) is still fixable.

I turn to you guys, the experts, for help and suggestions. Any would be much appreciated. And hey, if the car ends up being ruined, this is the first place I'll go to sell parts.

Oh, and as soon as I can get that hood open, I'll post any more pertinent details that y'all may need to help me out.

Thanks mates!

UPDATE:

First and foremost, I should point out that the battery is as dead as a doorknob. None of the lights or power locks work, and turning the key in the ignition results in a big fat nothing.

More importantly, though, since I've had some spare time recently, I managed to get that hood open by removing the front grill (thanks YouTube). It seems as though the accident has knocked the hood latch off by a few centimeters, so it won't release. I may just end up replacing the hood to get rid of the few dent marks it got from the accident, or maybe using a Dremel tool to tweak the latch so it releases.

The first thing I did was check the oil. Looking at this image: http://www.kevinwimberly.com/images/audi/dipstick.JPG
my dipstick matches the one on the right. The oil level was pretty much exactly where the B marker is pointing and is still a dark golden brown in color. Where the car is resting, it's on the slightest of angles pointing the car downwards, but the level doesn't seem to be...dangerously low (unless even a slight decline alters the dipstick level that much).

I don't exactly know where to go from here. I'm a little worried about giving the car a jump because I don't want to damage the engine if the dipstick level is indeed off. Would it be safer to just do an oil change first and then try, or is there a way for me to see if any of the cylinders are damaged?

Thanks again for the help!

 

Let me first say I don't know crap about 2.8's. However, i would hook up a new or charged battery and turn the key to where the instrument cluster lights up, from there use vag-com or another scanner and scan for codes and post them here. Also, I would drain all the oil and look for metal flakes in it and see how dark the oil really is.

Hopefully a 2.8'r will jump in with more expertise, basically what I told you is what I would do on any car, it's a good place to start. I definitely wouldn't start it or even crank it at all, while it might not do anything it's better to be safe then sorry.

 

Okay, so an update on the situation:

After using the help of my brother to poke around in the engine and see what is what, we came across what looks to be the culprit of why the engine stopped. It appears as though a piece of one of the timing chain tensioners broke off and got lodged into the timing chain. Here is a picture of the piece:



Upon looking into replacing the broken piece, I came across the realization that Audi doesn't simply sell the plastic bit of a timing chain tensioner. I can only find the entire apparatus for $400+. So my first question is this: Is it possible to go replace just the brown plastic part of a timing chain tensionor found at a junk yard or, if not, find an entire one at a junk yard that would be a reliable replacement? Also, since one of them failed, would it be wise to replace all four of them on both sides of the engine?

Beyond that, it's obvious that I need to replace both the valve cover and spark plug hole gaskets, the hood latch, and the oil cap disk, which are all cheap and simple repairs, I know. However, the damning issue that we noticed when we looked into the engine is the condition of the camshaft lobes. I have a picture so you can see for yourself:



As you can see, they are in decidedly not perfect condition. They are rusty and streaky, obviously because the car ran on low oil for longer than it should have. I am assuming that they are in a similar shape on the other side of the engine. Also, I don't know much about how engine timing works, but could the lobes be out of sync in this picture? And if so, how does one go about syncing up engine timing properly? At this point, if it is necessary to replace them (and I'm assuming it is), it seems as though it may be better to just find a used engine someone has for sale, buy it, and swap it out. Advice?

Thanks!

Oh, one more thing, while we were working around in the engine, this hose broke off:



Any idea what it is?

 

I can't open the images you posted. And yes you can buy just the pads for on the end of the cam chain tensioner. You can find them on ebay. I'm not sure if anyone else sells them.

 

I didn't see your picture but I can tell you a couple things.

1. Check to see if your radiator is damaged. Check all lines. Disconnect lines, remove radiator.

2. Check the rest of your timing accessories (waterpump and etc)

3. You said your alignment was off? Check all your control arms, upper and lower; check your tierod ends and check your steering rack.

4. I doubt this, but check to see if the motor got pushed in. If it did, you need new mounts, if not worse.

5. I guarantee you are going to have to do your entire timing procedure (pump, thermostat while your at it, tensioner, belt and etc) Make sure whoever is doing it USES A CAMSHAFT LOCKING TOOL. Last thing you want is your timing to go off and destroy you motor.

6. Believe it or not, its better to drive on less oil than on MORE oil. Meaning if you have too much oil you damage your catalytic converters and etc. Then again, if your running the motor dry, well need I say more?

7. Cut you oil filter open and check for metal fragments. You should take your oil pan off also. Check and clean the magnets located on the pan itself. Change the internal oil filter. I forgot if this filter is located in the tranny or the motor, but oh well you guys will understand what I mean when you lift the car. If its located in the tranny, buy certified ATF for your car.

8. Change the leaky gaskets, put her in ON position, and check for FFD or CEL's.

9. Let her rip. At your own risk ofcourse lol.

 

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'm re-posting the images from imgur in the hopes that you'll be able to see them.

Tensioner piece: https://i.imgur.com/qZFdFet.jpg

Camshaft lobes: https://i.imgur.com/lKQeCVj.jpg

And Kamil', I'll get crackin on all the things you said to do. Might take me a little while since I'm a novice, but I'll keep the thread posted with updates.

Random hose: https://i.imgur.com/gXCtakn.jpg

 

That hose is called the crankcase breather hose. What it does is reroutes the vapors from the valve covers through this diffuser in the valve cover itself. If you don't want to replace the hose and have the other piece, make sure to duck tape it really good. If not, but a new one.

When it comes to that tensioner piece, I don't know what it is, but if I were you, I would just get the whole timing procedure done, the right way.

The left cam isn't that bad but the right one is a little worse. What I would do is buy a couple different types of FINE to VERY FINE grit sand paper and see if you cant remove the rust or whatever those deposits are.

REMEMBER!!!! If you are going to sand them down, sand them down so gently that you will not create depressions in the metal. If you do, you will mess up your cams and your timing will be off anyway; so if you plan on sanding it down yourself be very very careful.