While idling? Is it possible to have a boost leak at a certain psi or would a boost leak be constant regardless of what boost pressure was being produced?

 

Yes I agree I don't think anything is wrong. A compression test kit is cheap though, around $30. As for a boost gauge the gauge will be around $50 or so. Obviously some are more and some are less. You can then get a vent pod which are stupid expensive, you can make the vent pod yourself by simply drilling out the vent which is what I plan to do when I install a gauge or you can get a basic pillar pod which go for very cheap.

Here are a few kits:

Vent pod (rip off) Audi B5 A4 Quattro 1.8T Search SiteSearch Boost - in110004 - Vent Mounted Boost Gauge Pod - ES#258493

Hardware kit Audi B5 A4 Quattro 1.8T Search SiteSearch Boost - ECS998002CB - Boost Gauge Hardware Kit - ES#2562292

Column kit http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-...ost/ES2580417/

Vent kit http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-...ost/ES2167986/

Gauge kit w/out mounting hardware http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-...ost/ES2575404/

Another gauge kit w/out mounting hardware http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-.../Boost/ES4673/

 

A compression test kit? Is that something similar to what you would use to test the compression of the cylinders? Or is it something you can hook up to a turbo line and take for a drive and then check the reading?

 

That's something that you would hook up to the cylinders. Thought that's what was being ask maybe I read it wrong.

Not sure of anything that you can hook up to the turbo line like you are explaining.

 

It shouldn't, technically you would find vacuum leaks but that's fine. You can also light a cigar and hold it over the engine and see where the smoke gets sucked in.

 

That tests the compression of the cylinders, not any boost leaks (unless it has a hidden power lol).

 

I see now. He said air gun to do a pressure test. I just thought of a compressor tester for some reason.

 

I disagree with this ideology. Internal combustion engines need 3 things to make power: Fuel, Air and Spark. The more of these you give the engine, the more power it will make. That's why a turbo gives an engine more power (cooled forced induction equals greater air delivery). High volume, high pressure fuel pumps deliver more fuel. Directly mounted, high voltage coil packs add more spark. High flow exhaust expels the waste faster, so the process can begin again sooner.

The faster the air, fuel, spark and exhaust can flow, the faster the crank can spin. That's how you make more power. An air filter is simply one of those components, so a hi-flow air filter will contribute to more power. I don't find that sad at all.

I only mention this because it is in fact on topic and I think it may help you.


I added an accel "kool blue" drop-in air filter and a simple, classy stainless muffler (but left the cats stock and left the resonator on. Not for the "extra power", but because I don't want to have to change the air filter ever again; and the stainless exhaust makes a HUGE difference in looks over the stock pipe. As a bonus, you can hear the power being made when accelerating and it sounds great IMO. Not really all that noticeable unless you know it's there, but it sounds sexy as hell IMHO.

Don't fall victim to opinions. Depend on research and actual facts. That's what will "throw you back in your seat".

Hopefully this helps you and doesn't offend you.

 

^A stock a4 airbox is generally accepted to be good to around 300whp, up until that mark the cone filter will not produce more air flow since the turbo can only take so much in at once. Yes a cone filter flows better, but when the car doesn't need more air it doesn't do anything for power

 

I have done research. It's pretty simple to show what gains (nothing) that you get from adding a pod filter. Run on a dyno stock put the filter on and run again. You'll be surprised.

Enjoy.