For starters, Ive searched but i cant seem to find someone that had the same problem. Close, and parts of it, but not as a whole.

I have an 01.5 1.8t awm tip. Late last week it started feeling as if the car was lagging, so I hooked it up to my VCDS Lite and got codes for random misfires and cylinder 2 misfire. I had recently replaced a faulty coilpack on said cylinder so I just cleared the codes and crossed my fingers.

The next day, on the ride to work, it seemed like I was in limp mode. Under normal acceleration, it would stop at 5 psi. Weird thing is, if i got on it, it would boost up to 8-9 and hold. So after work I scanned it again and came up with:
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
This one worried me as it deals with timing. Again, I cleared the codes and crossed my fingers.
I'm at 130k now, plan on doing timing belt and related this weekend (hopefully it warms up a bit). I parked the car for the weekend, and didnt do much driving until today (other than short trips to the store). The "limp" aspect of the problem seemed to go away for the most part, but to be sure I scanned again. The only code to come up this time was:

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1
Thursday, 29 December 2011, 23:56:12.
Control Module Part Number: 4B0 906 018 CH
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002
Software Coding: 16251
Work Shop Code: WSC 63251
VCID: 69A53EA70077
1 Fault Found:
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

So I guess what I'm getting at is should i start with replacing the MAF? It's kind of a pricey part (for genuine Audi parts at least), but mainly I don't wanna mess anything up by overlooking a bigger problem. None of the same codes have popped up twice yet. Any advice?

(Sorry for the long post, trying to eliminate all the normal questions up front)

 

start by cleaning the MAF and checking to make sure the connections are good. Bad readings in the MAF can cause your misfiring problem and possibly cause your timing issue as the engine tries to advance the timing to compensate for the misfiring caused by faulty readings from the MAF.

While you're at it make sure you don't have any intake leaks and look for obvious vac leaks as well.

finally, if you are getting close to needing the timing service done and have the means, don't put it off too long. but try the other things first.

good luck

 

Thanks for the quick reply.

I plan on picking up some MAF cleaner on the way home from work tomorrow, so Ill give that a shot. I've replaced most of the smaller boost/vac lines with silicon hose and still have a bunch left, so I guess nows as good a time as any to do the rest.

And the timing was done by the previous owner at 75k at dealership (was a 1owner car, I pulled the carfax), so I'm coming up on the time. I have the kit from Blauparts to do it, I've been putting it off for a little bit already.

The thing that I dont understand is the jumping around of the codes. All came up only once (I havent cleared the MAF one yet, Ill do it after I clean it tomorrow). Also, playing around with what I can in VCDS Lite (free version), if I go into "Engine", then into the "Readiness" part, before everything passed. Now when I go into it, the "Secondary Air Injection" now says "Failed or Incomplete", all the rest still pass. Not sure if this has anything to do with it, but I figured I'd add it to the story.

 

Secondary air is an emissions code. Won't affect the way your car runs or performs. It is something that will need attention if you need to pass emissions but some folks just delete the system all together.

It is amazing all the things that can go wonky when your air metering is messed up. Start with the simple stuff first.

Seems you are OK on the timing service for a few thousand more miles

 

alright i cleaned the sh*t outta the MAF with the spray, and put my stock airbox back in with a fresh filter. i changed my oil at the same time and got the motivation to do the timing so i did all that too. things went pretty good, cleared all the codes, and at this point ive driven about 80 miles since and nothing has popped up (been checking after every trip, to be sure haha). although i do plan on buying a new MAF this week and if/when it pops up again, ill just replace it.
also the readiness thing cleared too, whatever that was. all parts pass now.
thanks for your help

 

mini-update:

so on the way to work this am, the car seemed a bit sluggish, but since it was a scorching 5 degrees out this am, i figured that was the culprit (or the fact that I just switched back to factory airbox after running a cone filter for a few months). But after about 30 mins of driving, as i was getting on the highway, it started misfiring like crazy and tripped a cel. that was a fun ride in.

so on my lunch i pulled out my laptop and hooked it up to vcds lite. i came up with random/multiple misfire, intermittent (p0300 35-10) and also cylinder #2 misfire, intermittent (p0302 35-10). because they were there before, and ive driven over 250 miles since, doing the t-belt, i dont think (edit: i hope) that it doesnt have anything to do with that.

The MAF code hasnt popped up again yet, so i think the cleaner did its job, but im still gonna order one tonight (ive been kinda lazy the past few days) along with some new spark plugs.

So when I get home today, i plan on swapping around coil packs and see where that gets me. I have a spare, brand-new cp so if need be Ill switch it out.

Anything else in particular i should look into? or am i generally on the right track?

 

how do your vac lines look? vac leak is another one of those things that can cause your symptoms. There are a LOT of vac lines and even a tiny leak can cause issues. sounds like your misfire issue started after the car warmed up? have you ever changed your CTS? I have heard that a faulty CTS can also wreak havoc on seemingly unrelated systems.

hopefully someone more expert than me will chime in.

 

Cam, crank, map sensor(s)?

 

Just got through something similar. It turned out in the end to be low fuel pressure. A new fuel pump fixed all the car's woes. I would check the fuel pressure regulator, filter and the fuel pressure itself. I wasted money on plugs, coils, MAF sensor (I have a spare if you need it for $50) etc. Good old fuel pressure turned out to be the only thing the car really needed. Good Luck!

 

didnt realize i got these replies haha. ill start out by saying that the codes havent come back, and its been roughly 1500 miles (since i did the timing, about same time the problems came up). car is running strong, no shudder or anything, so i think for now im good (stress on "for now" part haha) thanks for the help everyone

ive replaced some vac lines already with silicon hoses, but dont think ive tracked them all down. as soon as it warms up a lil i plan on tackling the rest, once i find em all too..

and yah, the misfire pretty much came up when it warmed up. and no, never changed the cts, its still blue (i believe). I did try a little to get it out when i did the timing, but the thing was really in there.. but as far as i know, its still working correctly (guage moves correctly, stays in the center).

i havent changed any of these either, but wouldnt a code come up with vagcom if theres was issue with these sensors?

Ill look back through the carfax to see if any fuel parts were changed (it was a one-owner, factory maintained when i bought it) but i doubt any were. Ill look into it tonight. if need be ill purchase the parts this week.