tba doesn't happen automatically. you have to disconnect the battery, then reconnect it, and put your key in the ON position (dont start it) for ~2 minutes

 

One question, did you let the car sit in the on position for about 5 min before starting it the first time when you put the chip back in? because i did and i haven't had any problems with the reflash, put close to 70 miles on it today, and i got it today. the other question is and i can't remember, is your car a manual, because the clutch could be slipping and if its not it could be the torque converter in the automatic.

Question for anyone who did the reflash, were/should we have disconnected the battery when/before re installation of the ecu? because i didnt and it works fine.

 

yes, the car does buck but only when I have the accelerator pressed far. if I take it gentle, it won't buck. As far as the bad map chip, SpeedTuning doesn't solder a new chip, they use the original ECU chip and flash the new software on there. The car didn't behave like this before the ECU flash so is it the phyiscal chip or the software program that is faulty? And no, everything is stock and no MBC and it's a '98 A4 1.8T tiptronic Auto.

 

No problem. Thanks again for setting up the GB. As for the DV, my new one is in the mail so no, I have not upgraded it yet.

 

Stock dv is crap w/ a chip. That may be your problem.

 

Before I reinstalled the ECU, I read up on some people who have done an ECU upgrade on their Audi and they said that you can just put it in and drive off and it will adapt for the first 100 miles or so. There's mixed reviews about the whole throttle body adaptation b/c some people say it's not required while others who do have different procedures. However, I'll disconnect the battery and give it a shot since I have nothing to lose. Also, it's an automatic and I haven't felt any gear slip before so it would be odd if my transmission is failing (knock on wood).

 

Yup, I knew that but just thought that the stock DV wouldn't be able to hold a strong boost. I didn't think that the car would run poorly and studder and buck b/c of it. I just hope it's a simple fix so I can enjoy the car once again.

 

no you dont have to. i just said to disconnect the battery to perform the TBA because its easier then removing the ecu and putting it back in. either way would work

 

I'm confused. Since I had to send the ECU away to Speedtuning, then didn't I initiate the TBA process once I replugged back in the ECU? Is there a reason why I need to disconnect the battery now if I took the ECU out and sent it out?

 

This goes against what most people think, but after all these years, I don't see how a TBA is even possible with a DBC engine. All you have is the throtle body that is operated by a physical cable and spring, and the throtle position sensor which is purely mechanical other than the signal it puts out. I wouldn't worry about it. Get the DV and go from there. On a DBW engine there is a motor that operates the throtle plate and does need recalibrated/aligned every so often.