And you wont... the cams are aligned using the cam plates you see. The pullies are not keyed to the cams and just use a taper and bolt to hold them on. The main thing is to have the crank at the timing mark and the cams lined up with the big holes facing the center of the engine and lined up with each other. If you get the engine set this way, you can take a straight edge, or sting, and check that they line up. This is a rough check, however and you will eventually need the cam alignment tool. Maybe someone close to you has one, ask around.

 

i completely forgot you have the 12v, thats what i get for not rereading the whole thread.

midniteoyl is correct, the large holes should be facing each other. you look to be about a whole 30 degrees off on the passengers side, if those pics were taken while the crank was at TDC. there was just a thread about how to make one of those tools for $10...
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303208

unfortunately if you tried to crank the engine over with the cams the way they are, im sure a valve hit a piston by now.

 

Okay -- I'll line em up with the larger holes facing in and see if I have any compression on the right bank. (I'm being optimistic...)

If not, I guess I'll have to find a new head from the wrecking yard. There's one on ebay right now for $180, but it has the cam pulley already removed -- that'll be fun to line up without any keyway slot or other marking. Maybe I can get one locally with the cam pulley still on it...

 

these might help- audi's assembly procedures...

http://www.filedump.net/dumped/131sp...1249929979.pdf

http://www.filedump.net/dumped/134to...1249930004.pdf

http://www.filedump.net/dumped/1316c...1249930022.pdf

 

I lined up the RH cam and still no compression... I guess the valves are toast. I guess I'm in the market for a new head. Does anyone have the shop manual pages for intake and head removal?

Since I'm going in this far... does anyone make aftermarket cams for these engines? Should I bother doing any port matching?

 

When you line up the cams to the timing marks, only one cylinder will have the vlaves closed. The rest will have an intake or exhuast open. You cannot do a compression test that way unless you turn the cam to close the appropriate valves for the cylinder being tested. And then you can only do a leak-down test since turning the engine over without a timing belt will destroy the valves.

 

i really hope you lined up the RH cam and then put the timing belt back on before you tried that compression test. if not you definitely screwed up your valves, maybe even did more damage then before because you would have hit the other side of the engine as well. you may need two new heads now.

all the instruction manuals are in the first link in the modifications and maintenance sticky in this forum. just download the file. there isnt really any need to get aftermarket cams or port match a 12v motor. you can if you want, but its pretty much a pointless use of money. those werent exactly high performance engines.

 

No, I wouldn't have turned the engine over without the belt -- it was reinstalled. Actually, it turned over much more smoothly, but no compression on the right head. The left is as before with normal compression in the 160-180 psi range.

I wouldn't expect much of an improvement anyway with port matching or even cams, but it doesn't hurt to ask. I always thought it was pretty anemic... but there again, I'm used to having gobs of power and torque. This is my wife's car.

Nice thin head gaskets maybe to regain some of the original compression? I'm a hotrodder at heart -- gotta try something...

 

Since I have to replace the head...

I'd guess since #3 is TDC, that one would have both valves closed for the power stroke, right? I don't trust the cam sprocket alignment on my existing cam (to copy it for a "new" head) given it was turning at the time the pistons hit the valves and since there is no keyway, it probably twisted. I'm just not sure how I'd get everything lined up just right to time it properly if the cam sprocket and torque plate has been removed by the wrecking yard. I'm amazed there aren't alignment marks on the cam, sprocket, and torque plate... (or am I wrong on that? I hope...)

 

Just make sure you watch the piston-to-valve clearance, its close already.


Glad you actually did it with the belt on, the way it was reading I couldnt be sure