4th Gear
Quote:
I'd guess since #3 is TDC, that one would have both valves closed for the power stroke, right? I don't trust the cam sprocket alignment on my existing cam (to copy it for a "new" head) given it was turning at the time the pistons hit the valves and since there is no keyway, it probably twisted. I'm just not sure how I'd get everything lined up just right to time it properly if the cam sprocket and torque plate has been removed by the wrecking yard. I'm amazed there aren't alignment marks on the cam, sprocket, and torque plate... (or am I wrong on that? I hope...)
The cam pully has a Morse taper and the plates have a key. So the pully moving is no big deal. In fact, you have to lossen it and let it move while the cams are locked with the tool while replacing and aligning the timing belt. Little different than a chevy Originally Posted by shinto99
Since I have to replace the head...I'd guess since #3 is TDC, that one would have both valves closed for the power stroke, right? I don't trust the cam sprocket alignment on my existing cam (to copy it for a "new" head) given it was turning at the time the pistons hit the valves and since there is no keyway, it probably twisted. I'm just not sure how I'd get everything lined up just right to time it properly if the cam sprocket and torque plate has been removed by the wrecking yard. I'm amazed there aren't alignment marks on the cam, sprocket, and torque plate... (or am I wrong on that? I hope...)
That makes me feel a bit better -- if the plates are keyed, then it should be a cinch. I went ahead and bought a head on ebay. I should have it in a couple of days. I guess I should start tearing everything else down.