Fan Clutch Bearing Easy Removal
#1
Fan Clutch Bearing Easy Removal
Hey I just wanted to share my method for removing the fan clutch bearing. I just did my 175k service and this was one of those jobs I was loath to tackle. It had to be done however. You can see I have plenty of space to work with but this can easily be done without putting your car into the service position. Here are the things you need to have or buy:
1 1/4" Galvanized steel cap, hole center punched and drilled to bearing I.D.
1 1/4" Galvanized steel closed nipple
1"->3/4" Steel reducer bushing, corners filed down to the O.D. of the bearing
M10 Grade 8 or above steel bolt, Maybe M12?
M10 Grade 10 washers
3/8" heavy duty fender washer
First remove your Alternator. You will need the long bolt. Remove the necessary parts to get to the fan clutch bearing including the unfathomably worthless circlip that "holds" the bearing in. I hit it with some WD40 to penetrate. Assemble the bearing removal tool. You will use just the steel cap first then use the nipple to finish the job.
To reassemble use the bushing to press it in. The alternator bolt isn't long enough. I had space so I used the reducer bushing to tap it in with a hammer until I could catch it on the alternator bolt threads. That may be a problem for those working from the top of the engine. You will need at least a 6.5" bolt grade 8 or above and pull it in from behind into the bracket. The bushing works out great as a press piece because it centers, but does not touch the center race which can damage the bearing.
I hope this helps someone. Happy wrenching
1 1/4" Galvanized steel cap, hole center punched and drilled to bearing I.D.
1 1/4" Galvanized steel closed nipple
1"->3/4" Steel reducer bushing, corners filed down to the O.D. of the bearing
M10 Grade 8 or above steel bolt, Maybe M12?
M10 Grade 10 washers
3/8" heavy duty fender washer
First remove your Alternator. You will need the long bolt. Remove the necessary parts to get to the fan clutch bearing including the unfathomably worthless circlip that "holds" the bearing in. I hit it with some WD40 to penetrate. Assemble the bearing removal tool. You will use just the steel cap first then use the nipple to finish the job.
To reassemble use the bushing to press it in. The alternator bolt isn't long enough. I had space so I used the reducer bushing to tap it in with a hammer until I could catch it on the alternator bolt threads. That may be a problem for those working from the top of the engine. You will need at least a 6.5" bolt grade 8 or above and pull it in from behind into the bracket. The bushing works out great as a press piece because it centers, but does not touch the center race which can damage the bearing.
I hope this helps someone. Happy wrenching
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Audi A4
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10-06-2007 04:54 AM
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Archive - Engine/Performance Parts
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05-25-2007 11:31 PM