Is the front passenger wheel hub something I can do myself?
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 86
So i have to worry about the upper pinch bolt on the control arm being seized.
I've done some reading and I'm thinking I have a good chance my pinch bolt wont be seized. It's been a california car it's entire life. Dry, no salt, moderate temperature.
I've done some reading and I'm thinking I have a good chance my pinch bolt wont be seized. It's been a california car it's entire life. Dry, no salt, moderate temperature.
Last edited by Frozenguy; Dec 4, 2013 at 01:30 AM.
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 86
It's definitely not the same quality, but do you really need a hub that'll last 300k+? I'm sure one that lasts even half that time will be perfectly fine since your car won't be on the road forever. I would think that the vast majority of hubs that need replacement do so either because someone drove on a bad bearing for too long, or someone damaged it while changing a bearing. If you avoid doing those two chances are it'll last the life of the car.
Does anyone know of anyone that has used one and if everything lined up well?
Former Sponsor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 511
From: Beaverton Oregon
We sell only OEM Audi parts, and that front hub runs 190.46 dollars. Not in stock right now but takes 3 days to get to us, then between 3-5 working days to get to you. The wheel bearing is 90.02 dollars and in stock. It comes with the bolt or nut for the axle also. If you have any questions on our parts please ask. Thanks, Jeff.
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,973
From: Costa Mesa, SoCal
You're probably right. I've replaced control arms on 2 (southern) California B5s, where the pinch bolts may have been 13 years old on both cars when I removed them. I had no problems getting any pinch bolts out.
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 113
From: Huntington Beach, California
Yes, you may reuse the upper control arm pinch bolts if they are not excessively corroded or otherwise damaged.
It is also a good idea to smear the shaft of the bolts with anti-seize compound during reassembly so they come out easy again next time you remove them.
It is also a good idea to smear the shaft of the bolts with anti-seize compound during reassembly so they come out easy again next time you remove them.
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 460
From: western NJ
Gee, go remove a wheel, loosen the pinch bolt nut, and then try to turn the pinch bolt. Let's quit speculating. Then you will know what else you need when the parts arrive. try it on the side with the good hub and lug bolts, then assume the other side is the same.
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 86
The bearing and hub are in my hands now!
Shouldn't cost me more than $25 to have them pressed right?
Will the shop I take these to more than likely know how far to press these items? Or does it just get pressed down to the notch (fool proof)?
There is an independent audi/vw shop local that seems to get really good reviews. I'm sure he has done this before.
Shouldn't cost me more than $25 to have them pressed right?
Will the shop I take these to more than likely know how far to press these items? Or does it just get pressed down to the notch (fool proof)?
There is an independent audi/vw shop local that seems to get really good reviews. I'm sure he has done this before.
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 113
From: Huntington Beach, California
A competent shop will know how to remove the old bearing from the carrier and install the new one with no damage to the carrier or bearing.
Depending on where the work is being done, it can be 25$US per bearing and up, but sometime it can be both for less than 50$US.
Depending on where the work is being done, it can be 25$US per bearing and up, but sometime it can be both for less than 50$US.
