B5 Models Please discuss all 1996 - 2001 B5 A4 topics here...

Fuel filter conundrum

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-28-2011, 03:29 PM
jdahlen24's Avatar
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 695
Default Fuel filter conundrum

Just got off the phone with my Audi service rep at the local dealer, and I mentioned to him that I didn't see anywhere in the 8 years they've been servicing my car that they had replaced the fuel filter.

His response was that because of the difficulty of accessing the filter(having to drop the subframe and gas tank), they don't replace the fuel filter unless there is a proven restriction in the filter. Furthermore, he said that Audi considers their original fuel filters to be permanent.

Now, in this DIY http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng49.shtml, the guy says that you should replace the fuel filter every 15k miles.

My thinking on this is that both viewpoints are highly extreme. While I can't see myself changing this every 15k, I certainly can't believe that my fuel filter is pristine after 120k miles!

Since I'm a new DIY'er, I'm looking for excuses for things to replace, and this has my attention. Am I better off waiting until I'm having "issues" with the performance of the car, or should I just do it?
 
  #2  
Old 01-28-2011, 03:32 PM
FASTER's Avatar
Tech Slut
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 3,150
Default

Do it... its not really that hard...
 
  #3  
Old 01-28-2011, 03:46 PM
dragonrage's Avatar
2nd Gear
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,465
Default

At 120k, it should have been done by now.
 
  #4  
Old 01-28-2011, 03:49 PM
jdahlen24's Avatar
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 695
Default

Alright, I'm in. Do I really need that 8mm triple square allen socket tool, or is there a hex tool I can use as a substitute?
 
  #5  
Old 01-28-2011, 04:00 PM
dragonrage's Avatar
2nd Gear
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,465
Default

A regular 6pt allen wrench may work, but I give no guarantees on that.
 
  #6  
Old 01-28-2011, 04:06 PM
y^0's Avatar
y^0
y^0 is offline
1st Gear
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kokomo, Indiana
Posts: 123
Default

i have the same engine, and actually just did this myself. here are some things that i wish someone had told me (sorry that it's so long):
-make sure that the auto parts people give you the right filter (if you have banjo bolts, make sure that your new one is the right type) and another thing that would have saved me some time is if you can find one, get the filter with the lip on the "in" section not on the "out" section (tough enough to get the stupid thing in there).
-as for the tools, i would strongly suggest going with the t-40 and the ratcheting wrench which will fit EXACTLY around the bit of the t-40. i bought a new 8mm and it turned out my bit was bigger around than 8mm. the reason i say go with the bit and the wrench is because i didn't even have enough room to fit an allen wrench in there, and if i could, i wouldn't have had enough room to turn it.
-if you have any questions with it, you can also pm devilman, because he is super smart and has the same engine.
-the 1.8t'ers have a different type of fuel filter as far as i know (so keep that in mind when searching for answers).
 
  #7  
Old 01-28-2011, 09:08 PM
jdahlen24's Avatar
2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 695
Default

Originally Posted by y^0
i have the same engine, and actually just did this myself. here are some things that i wish someone had told me (sorry that it's so long):
-make sure that the auto parts people give you the right filter (if you have banjo bolts, make sure that your new one is the right type) and another thing that would have saved me some time is if you can find one, get the filter with the lip on the "in" section not on the "out" section (tough enough to get the stupid thing in there).
-as for the tools, i would strongly suggest going with the t-40 and the ratcheting wrench which will fit EXACTLY around the bit of the t-40. i bought a new 8mm and it turned out my bit was bigger around than 8mm. the reason i say go with the bit and the wrench is because i didn't even have enough room to fit an allen wrench in there, and if i could, i wouldn't have had enough room to turn it.
-if you have any questions with it, you can also pm devilman, because he is super smart and has the same engine.
-the 1.8t'ers have a different type of fuel filter as far as i know (so keep that in mind when searching for answers).
Excellent advice, thank you!

Because all of the many different types of fuel filters out there, I decided to buy the filter from the Audi dealer. The parts guy wanted my VIN so that he made sure it was the correct part.

If I understand you correctly, you used a T40 bit and a wrench? If the 8mm wrench was a bit too small, what did you use? 9mm?
 
  #8  
Old 01-29-2011, 02:01 AM
hiwords's Avatar
5th Gear
Join Date: May 2007
Location: noob from NY
Posts: 7,728
Default

i did mine with just a couple of wrenches, a saw blade and wire cutters.
 
  #9  
Old 01-29-2011, 02:29 AM
FASTER's Avatar
Tech Slut
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 3,150
Default

Originally Posted by jdahlen24
If I understand you correctly, you used a T40 bit and a wrench? If the 8mm wrench was a bit too small, what did you use? 9mm?
Yes because theres no room to get a ratchet on there. Bits are generally 1/4 inch.
Originally Posted by hiwords
i did mine with just a couple of wrenches, a saw blade and wire cutters.
Macguyver
 
  #10  
Old 01-29-2011, 09:46 AM
ImTheDevil's Avatar
Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 11,670
Default

Yu, it helps that your hands can fit in there. We looked like elephants trying to f*ck a football when changing mine.

OP, the service guy is wrong - they're not permanent filters and I'm pretty sure that obstruction in my filter caused my fuel pump to have to overwork. That is what I think killed my pump. Definitely change it. I needed a hacksaw blade to cut some parts away, and the plastic square nut that the clamp bolt threads into is a pain. Had to use needlenose visegrip pliers to hold it, and ended up replacing it with a metal nex nut and new bolt.

Oh and the subframe does not have to be dropped. Undo the tank straps and wedge a 2x4 between the subframe and the tank and force the tank down. Use a crowbar to wedge in and hold it down to buy you some room. Also, make sure you get new washers for the banjo bolts with the new filter. On the OEM setup one of the four washers was a dissimilar metal which caused the banjo line fitting to corrode somewhat and seize up. It'll come free but you may have to swear it off.
 


Quick Reply: Fuel filter conundrum



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:46 PM.