I am looking at purchasing a 99 A4 with 115k on it. It is a 5 speed .The water pump, timing belt were done a few 1ooo miles ago. This car is extremely clean and the asking price is 4500. Can anyone give me some advice?

 

Was the thermostat and other 'while you are in there' items changed at the same time? If yes, then sounds like you might have a pretty good deal if the rest of the maintenance is up to snuff.. make sure the common potential problems aren't issues.. like good heat and a/c and look at the FAQs to be assured the other stuff that typically goes wrong isn't an issue!

 

A local shop in SF has apparently done all the maintenance for the last 7 years. thank you for your reply. I will check the FAQ. Thanks again!

 

im looking at a 98 a4 2.8 5 speed quattro with 82k miles on it for about the same price - and i feel its a great price.

im particularly interested in this car because it just had a new clutch put in. i've taken a look at all the models out there, and the non-turbos are going to be hands down the easiest to work on but even so - replacing the clutch will take 12-16 mechanic hours work (2 days). so price that out how ever you feel (i think 2.5k).

the car you are looking at sounds great - the water pump and timing belt would cost ~$1500k to have replace so that's awesome. you didnt say if that car has a turbo, but if it does i would be much more suspicious of the condition. The clutch is something i would be concerned with. whats makes it questionable is the miles it has - depending on how its been driven: it either had the clutch replaced :
- it has had it replaced 2 times and its good to go
- it has never had it replaced and is almost definitely going to go out soon.
- it has been replaced once and will need one now or in less than 60k miles (big spread i know, but a clutch can go anywhere between 60-100k miles, so with two are being considered...)

here are the things i'll be checking when i see the car im looking at.

- the clutch: ill do the drive up hill / 5 gear test. to do this test basically shift up until you are pulling maximum torque. the rpms should not rise with out increasing speed - you will feel the clutch slipping.

- engine mounts: while one person is in the car with brakes full on, and giving a gas - the front end of the car will dip. the other person (you) should be watching the engine bay to see the engine doesnt go wonky. that is: the engine will pull down a little and lock against the mount then pull the frame down. it will not keep going down ward toward the ground failing to pull the frame down or all the way off to one side.

- suspension: ill be looking the bushings on all wheels. they should be dry and intact - no tears or holes in that rubber. ill also take a turn at speed when i test drive it, and hopefully appreciate a nice stuck to the ground feel that is: no rolling. ill also check the compression on each wheel well. depending on how all of that goes. i will lock the steering and check each tire: jack up each wheel (or more than one at a time depending on what kinda of lift you have) then push on 3 o' clock and 9 - it should not go back and forth. i will do the same with my hands on 12 and 6 o' clock. if there is play in either you may need new joints / ***** / ? on there.

- brakes: i got no tips here just check the feel of the brakes during the road test. the engine mount test earlier kinda covers this too.

- the last thing i'd check is the electronics. turn on and off everything - and ask the probing questions to the person selling it: have thing gone out before? does the car have a history of fuse problems?

let me know how it goes - i just joined the forums to post that^^

 

Thank you very much. I will be test driving this car on Thursday and will be visiting the shop that has ALL records for the past several years. I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your reply! Thanks again and yes, I will report back!