Here's a little background:

So I bought a B5 2.8 A4 quattro 5 speed manual with a blown engine. I bought a used engine off eBay with 105k miles and didn't realize I had bought an engine for an auto transmission. Luckily I found a thread with explicit instructions on how to connect the engine to the transmission. My only problem now is that there are extra connections on the auto wiring harness that came with the automatic engine and frankly I just don't know how to connect everything. I'm new to this forum so if my problem has already been addressed please accept my apologies in advance.

There are two extra plugs in the ecu compartment and two hoses I'm not sure where to connect to. I'll post a picture of the 2 electrical plugs but here are the hoses I'm having trouble with:

https://goo.gl/photos/Povyk85ncxnviTJ57

It's the black plastic tube near the intake filter and:

https://goo.gl/photos/paPirXE1rzYtTUQJ9

That hose I'm holding near the brake fluid reservoir.

These are the last 3 issues I have before firing up this bad boy. Any help is appreciated.

 

My car has harness plugs that don't go anywhere. That's because they use the same harness for multiple cars. Use VAG COM to check & fix one issue at a time.

G/L

 

Thanks for the reply A4TurboyGuy.

Update: Well I'm actually kind of glad I haven't gotten any replies. I'm new to Audis and my buddy is the one who has been doing basically all the work and he's fairly new to Audis himself so we're both getting some pretty good experience trying to get this mess running. So I been googling the cr@p out of my questions and I've been able to get answers for 2 of my 3 questions. A4TG makes a good point though, one issue at a time. The black plastic tube is supposed to be connected to the air box but I guess it's missing the connector at the end. The hose by the brake fluid reservoir goes to the clutch and according to my buddy, he's surmised that it connects to the brake fluid reservoir?

Yesterday he hooked up the battery and turned the key but wouldn't crank because of a couple of sensors that need to be hooked up:

https://goo.gl/photos/i1jpa7wYXQDGnsrq9

He's going to hook them up today and see what happens later.

 

If you're talking about the plastic piece that hooks up to the side of the airbox (and not the actual intake hose), that's for the air pump and you can delete it if you want. Just make sure you cover that hole in the airbox properly, because it's after the air filter.

 

Yes, that plastic piece. Don't I need to have it hooked up for emissions?

 

No. My understanding is that the air pump is used to pump "cold" (cooler) air into the engine (I've since forgotten the exact process, but you can delete that hose and the entire air pump system and nothing will change (aka: no adverse effects). I actually just did this again yesterday (I bought another 8D B5).

The best way (IMO) to do it is to disconnect that pipe, follow it down to the air pump, disconnect it and then disconnect the other hose, which leads up to the second metal pipe on the (exhaust) side of the valve cover and plugs into the combi-valve.

You can eliminate all of that (including the metal pipe, hose clamps & connectors). Just put a short vacuum line on the other end of the combi-valve and put a screw (or something) in it, to seal off any vacuum (even though it won't have any). Do the same thing with the other end of that hose, which is on the intake side of the engine and does have vacuum, but since you don't need it anymore, you can just block it off.

You will be left with a pipe that looks like it's coming up from the pump (which it was). I would leave that until you're working on something down there (on something else), because it's bolted to something (I think the turbo brace. I can't remember).

When you're ready, you can just uninstall the air pump and get rid of it or hold on to it (it's up to you). Deleting it will give you the added benefit of making room for an intercooler (the piping). Don't try to remove the "ring" that the air pump was mounted to, as it is also the mount for the A/C condenser. Just sit down and push the "ring" back with your foot as far as you can.

By eliminating all of this unnecessary ****, you will have much more room to move around the engine bay and less chance of a vacuum leak.

This will not cause a CEL and it will not affect performance (in a negative way). It was pointless to begin with and it's nothing more than clutter. I've ran this delete for years and have had zero issues with it. Just remember to plug the airbox hole really well, so you don't suck anything into the engine (as I've said: it's past the air filter).

G/L and let me know if I can help further.

 

Thank you so much for the informative post and for keeping up with this thread I started. Yes, I definitely need a little more help. We started the car yesterday (HOORAY! ) but the reverse lights don't turn on. Here's the extra wires in the ecu compartment:

https://goo.gl/photos/DXVYtf6rcv5ZwBfx9

And I'm not sure where these go:

https://goo.gl/photos/LfP1q2MtP5LDqgwD9

 

I'm not sure. I would definitely Google a wiring diagram of your ECM. Google the manufacturer's name and the model number of your ECM and then click "images". You should find something there.

G/L