Ignition Timing Fuse and engine misfire
Hi Guys,
I just bought this 1998 Audi A4 2.8L 30v 5spd quattro w/158K and it has an engine misfire, cylinder 5 - code P0305. I swapped the injectors on 4 and 5 and the misfire followed the injector to cylinder 4. I've ordered a replacement injector.
The trouble is, I researched the problem profusely before purchasing the car (I knew it had a misfire before I bought it) and made the worst mistake anyone can make while working on a car - shotguning parts. ecstuning.com said the ICM/Coil pack was typically the cause of misfires and it looks like in many cases it was. I purchased one from Amazon and installed it and (as indicated above) it did not fix my misfire problem. Let this be a lesson to anyone searching the internet for solutions to misfires: I should have performed a full diagnosis on the car before buying any parts.
Running home from work, suddenly the engine just quits while running down the road - exactly like a broken timing belt. Pulled into a lot and verified the TB didn't break (huge relief!) and swapped the ICM/Coil pack back on - no luck. Checked all the fuses and everything looked ok. I thought I smelled a hint of burning plastic but I can't be sure.
Had a friend tow it home and we began checking. No CEL, could not connect my laptop/OBDII tool to it (could previously) and could not hear the fuel pump. Assumed ECM or fuel pump likely so I removed the intake tube and sprayed some ether in. It fired up but ran horribly. Shut it down and checked the fuses again, found the one for Ignition Timing (20A) was blown. Replaced it and it fired right up.
At this point, it's hard to tell but I think that new ICM/Coil pack failed and took out my fuse. I'm really not too willing to swap it back in and try it again but I am open to other ideas.
Questions:
When an injector fails on these is it typically a blockage (clogged) or is there an internal failure or? Are these safe to clean with a momentary switch and blowing carb cleaner and compressed air through?
I was unable to locate a shraeder valve to relieve the fuel pressure. Do you guys usually pull the fuel pump fuse and idle till the fuel rail is empty or did I overlook another way?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I just bought this 1998 Audi A4 2.8L 30v 5spd quattro w/158K and it has an engine misfire, cylinder 5 - code P0305. I swapped the injectors on 4 and 5 and the misfire followed the injector to cylinder 4. I've ordered a replacement injector.
The trouble is, I researched the problem profusely before purchasing the car (I knew it had a misfire before I bought it) and made the worst mistake anyone can make while working on a car - shotguning parts. ecstuning.com said the ICM/Coil pack was typically the cause of misfires and it looks like in many cases it was. I purchased one from Amazon and installed it and (as indicated above) it did not fix my misfire problem. Let this be a lesson to anyone searching the internet for solutions to misfires: I should have performed a full diagnosis on the car before buying any parts.
Running home from work, suddenly the engine just quits while running down the road - exactly like a broken timing belt. Pulled into a lot and verified the TB didn't break (huge relief!) and swapped the ICM/Coil pack back on - no luck. Checked all the fuses and everything looked ok. I thought I smelled a hint of burning plastic but I can't be sure.
Had a friend tow it home and we began checking. No CEL, could not connect my laptop/OBDII tool to it (could previously) and could not hear the fuel pump. Assumed ECM or fuel pump likely so I removed the intake tube and sprayed some ether in. It fired up but ran horribly. Shut it down and checked the fuses again, found the one for Ignition Timing (20A) was blown. Replaced it and it fired right up.
At this point, it's hard to tell but I think that new ICM/Coil pack failed and took out my fuse. I'm really not too willing to swap it back in and try it again but I am open to other ideas.
Questions:
When an injector fails on these is it typically a blockage (clogged) or is there an internal failure or? Are these safe to clean with a momentary switch and blowing carb cleaner and compressed air through?
I was unable to locate a shraeder valve to relieve the fuel pressure. Do you guys usually pull the fuel pump fuse and idle till the fuel rail is empty or did I overlook another way?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
all injectors fail, you can clean them but they will probably fail again in time. I know ECS has a schrader valve if you need on scroll down a few threads there is a thread about the schrader not even two days old i believe.
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