First I like to thank EVERYONE here who is trying to help "the little people" (like myself)

Second what would be the cause for the Engine Timing Fuse (#32) to burst?

Fuse Box.jpg

Is it OK to drive it like that to service garage and what are the potential damages?
Can I screw up something like a crank sensor, coils, or even the ECU?
And isn't the Control Module Unit and ECU the same thing?
I put 30A fuse (original was 20A) since that was the only spare I had and the my car started within 2 turns of the key. I drove it around the block, but run like crop so I parked it and went to get fuses. When I come back I put 20A like the original. I start the car and not even 15 sec the car stalled. Pull out the fuse and it was burnt. I change the fuel pump relay with the new one I bought and put 25A fuse. Guess what? That one burnt too, so I didn't wanted to cause any damage so I pulled the new fuel pump relay and negative from the battery and I left it alone.
Now this is my problem.
What's the best thing to do?
In a owner manual I found 3 Engine Timing Fuses #29, #32, #34 but I don't know what is their purpose? So can anyone give me any advice or suggestion?

Thanks a lot again,

P.S. If anyone needs brand new in a box, fuel pump relay (it's says 372 on the top) or my original fuel pump puled from a '96 Audi A4 Quattro, since I put new pump in mine without checking ALLLLL the fuses and NOT just the fuel pump fuse can contact me by private message. Price reasonable or best offer.

 

What year?

On a 96 that fuse (32) feeds your ignition coils and MFI engine controller so the car won't even run with that fuse blown.

34 is power to the fuel injectors.
29 is power to intake manifold change over valve, egr solenoid valve your O2 sensor heaters and the evaporative canister purge valve