knock/tap/rattle coming from front of engine bay during cold weather starting...
#1
Hey all,
So my 2000 A4 V6 2.8 auto slapshift makes a worrying rattling noise during the cold weather mornings... Only when idling, when it goes above maybe 1200 rpm the sound is gone. Also, when the car reaches temp and gets driven (even the short 3 mile drive to work) the noise is almost gone... Totally gone if I take a longer drive. This also happened last winter, but wasn't as loud (wasn't as cold either) and then it was gone during the summer months.
I have tried to research the problem but none of the sounds I hear on other threads sound like mine.
I will attach a couple videos first is cold start, this morning, -10 °F (prob around -15 during the night) .... The second is after letting it warm up and driving 3 miles to work.
Thanks for your input everyone.
Edit: I want to add that it's not a steady tap "1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4" ... It sounds uneven...
Edit 2: Yes I am aware that I stupidly recorded video vertically... My B
So my 2000 A4 V6 2.8 auto slapshift makes a worrying rattling noise during the cold weather mornings... Only when idling, when it goes above maybe 1200 rpm the sound is gone. Also, when the car reaches temp and gets driven (even the short 3 mile drive to work) the noise is almost gone... Totally gone if I take a longer drive. This also happened last winter, but wasn't as loud (wasn't as cold either) and then it was gone during the summer months.
I have tried to research the problem but none of the sounds I hear on other threads sound like mine.
I will attach a couple videos first is cold start, this morning, -10 °F (prob around -15 during the night) .... The second is after letting it warm up and driving 3 miles to work.
Thanks for your input everyone.
Edit: I want to add that it's not a steady tap "1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4" ... It sounds uneven...
Edit 2: Yes I am aware that I stupidly recorded video vertically... My B
Last edited by MelendezA32; 03-06-2014 at 10:34 AM.
#6
Edit: Also would the tensioner throw a CEL? I don't have any lights on. (Ok thats a lie, I have low wiper fluid)
Last edited by MelendezA32; 03-06-2014 at 11:19 AM.
#7
You need to have your cam chain tensioner replaced. it entails removing the valve cover gasket to get to the cam chain tensioner.
Unless you know how to wrench, you need to bring it to a independent shop for such a repair.
#8
Yes, being the oil viscosity gets more thin, after it gets warmer and hotter. less resistance for the cam chain tensioner. Depends on the kind of oil you're using, too. Still, you need your cam chain tensioner, replaced. Regardless of your oil weight.
You need to have your cam chain tensioner replaced. it entails removing the valve cover gasket to get to the cam chain tensioner.
Unless you know how to wrench, you need to bring it to a independent shop for such a repair.
Also-is it safe to drive in the meantime?
#9
Yes, being the oil viscosity gets more thin, after it gets warmer and hotter. less resistance for the cam chain tensioner. Depends on the kind of oil you're using, too. Still, you need your cam chain tensioner, replaced. Regardless of your oil weight.
You need to have your cam chain tensioner replaced. it entails removing the valve cover gasket to get to the cam chain tensioner.
Unless you know how to wrench, you need to bring it to a independent shop for such a repair.
Last edited by MelendezA32; 03-06-2014 at 12:07 PM.
#10
Just saw the videos and it doesn't really sound like a chain tensioner, those usually have a more consistent and higher-pitched tapping sound, and when they're bad enough to be this loud there's usually other symptoms like rough running or a loss of torque. Sounds more like an accessory or timing belt tensioner. Pull off the top engine cover and both upper timing chain covers and look to see if either of the belts is wobbling or vibrating.