So both of my lights do not work. I checked the fuse in the dash and its still good, I even changed it and still nothing. I took one of the bulbs out and I can't tell if its good or bad. Their is only one line going through the bulb. Also I wanted to know what I need to do to check if I am getting power to each bulb. I have a Voltage Tester but forgot how to use it. ID10T error. What do I need to set it too?? Also what turns on those lights on, if the car is not running the headlights are off?

 

when i was messing with these just taking em out to see how easy itd be to replace them with white leds, i realized headlights gotta be on for em to work. besides that, im clueless good luck!

 

set The meter on ohms (the omega symbol) and piut the probes on either end. It should read less than 1 ohm if the bulb isn't blown. Take a look at the contacts that the bulb snaps into - it's easy for them to corrode in there. Spray them with electrical contact cleaner and scrub them with a wire brush to shine them and try again - it may be simply a case of bad conductivity.

 

set The meter on ohms (the omega symbol) and piut the probes on either end. It should read less than 1 ohm if the bulb isn't blown. Take a look at the contacts that the bulb snaps into - it's easy for them to corrode in there. Spray them with electrical contact cleaner and scrub them with a wire brush to shine them and try again - it may be simply a case of bad conductivity.

 

Will try this in the morning. Besides cleaning the contacts how do I test the contacts for the bulb plug for the car, not where the bulb plugs into? Same thing try the ohms? or Volts? What reading should I get!

I still gotta get some CV shafts and I dont really wanna pay more then $100 a piece. Any suggestions? Sorry for being off topic!

 

I hope you understand my last post. Not where the bulb goes into the holder, where the holder goes into the two contacts on the car.

 

I had this same problem on my 97. The foam weather seal around the edge of the plastic lens had deteriorated to the point where it wasn't keeping the weather out anymore. The contacts on the bulb, the bulb holder, and pretty much the whole rest of the wiring back there was rusted somethin fierce. what I ended up doing was just bypassing all of that stuff and wiring some LED's directly to the wiring inside the trunk lid.

As for the voltmeter, after you check the impedance, switch it to volts. On my multimeter, setting it to "Automatic" works fine. Put one probe on each contact on the bulb holder and you should be getting right around 12v. Those festoon bulbs don't have polarity, so it doesn't matter which probe goes where. Start there and work your way forward, ruling out each connection as you go. By that I mean, start with the bulb holder. If you get 0v from the bulb holder, un plug it and test the connections at the plug, and so on until you get 12v.

 

Thanks. I am going to check that right now. Will get back to you asap. Yea, I wanted to start from the beginning and not get new bulbs to find out its the actual holder or the connection inside the trunk.

 

I am getting 11.8 - 11.9.

 

Contacts are too corroded to work. Got it working but I need to clean the contacts to get it to work all the time.