Lots of work, suggestions are nice
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1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 19
From:
Lots of work, suggestions are nice
Hello,
Soon I will be doing a bit of work to my aging 1998 Audi A4. Suggestions would be nice because I have never worked on the Audi but I do know the pain history of them. I consider my auto skill to be at an advanced maintenance leve not including internal work.
Replacing all rotors and pads.
(can I buy brake pads with sensors already installed)
Replacing driver side rear caliper (siezed)
Replacing passenger rear bearing
(should I do both rears as a set like tires, I have the website for these)
Investigating rear driver suspension for hollow metallic knocking sound
(very prevelant when it rains and occurs even with small amounts of suspension travel)
Main brake lights do not come on
(i have a set of rear lights not coming on, I assume the dimmer ones are a backup system)
Thank you for your help and suggestions.
Soon I will be doing a bit of work to my aging 1998 Audi A4. Suggestions would be nice because I have never worked on the Audi but I do know the pain history of them. I consider my auto skill to be at an advanced maintenance leve not including internal work.
Replacing all rotors and pads.
(can I buy brake pads with sensors already installed)
Replacing driver side rear caliper (siezed)
Replacing passenger rear bearing
(should I do both rears as a set like tires, I have the website for these)
Investigating rear driver suspension for hollow metallic knocking sound
(very prevelant when it rains and occurs even with small amounts of suspension travel)
Main brake lights do not come on
(i have a set of rear lights not coming on, I assume the dimmer ones are a backup system)
Thank you for your help and suggestions.
Last edited by Jamie Q.; Apr 7, 2009 at 05:17 PM.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 174
From: 49504
yes the pads come with sensors in already. just make sure you order them that way (they offer both)
the bearings are known to go so you might as well do both while you have the time and motivation.
good luck on the rest. best bet would be some trouble shooting, starting with the cheapest options and work your way up from there. lights should be pretty easy. I don't quite follow the suspension problem.
the bearings are known to go so you might as well do both while you have the time and motivation.
good luck on the rest. best bet would be some trouble shooting, starting with the cheapest options and work your way up from there. lights should be pretty easy. I don't quite follow the suspension problem.
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1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
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From:
Do you have a website for the Pads with sensors in them?* I checked NAPA ONLINE but they seemed to have only the ones without sensors on them.The suspension on the rear left side will knock alot when it is cold from rainy weather.* I can't really explain it further than that.* Any other type of cold weather it doesn't do it.* Only one thing to do then, and that is rip into it 
I couldn't find a Chiltons book for AUDI, is there a handy wire diagram for lights on this forum?Thank you for the PM's and posts.
I couldn't find a Chiltons book for AUDI, is there a handy wire diagram for lights on this forum?Thank you for the PM's and posts.
1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 174
From: 49504
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 19
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Rock'n
One is for square-rounded connectors and the other is rounded. What type of connector does a 1998 1.8T Quattro have?
Also, just to double check. The rear ones do not have sensors?
Thank you for the link
One is for square-rounded connectors and the other is rounded. What type of connector does a 1998 1.8T Quattro have?
Also, just to double check. The rear ones do not have sensors?
Thank you for the link
Last edited by Jamie Q.; Apr 10, 2009 at 01:27 PM.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,927
From: Indianapolis, IN
You will have to check your current brakes to see which pad connectors you have.
No sensors for the rear - and remember the rear calipers have to rotate clockwise as they are compressed.
If you are inclined to pay the cash - buy the Bentley manual for the A4. It has way more that the Chilton or the Hayes manual.
I am wondering if that knocking you are hearing is a sloppy balljoint.
No sensors for the rear - and remember the rear calipers have to rotate clockwise as they are compressed.
If you are inclined to pay the cash - buy the Bentley manual for the A4. It has way more that the Chilton or the Hayes manual.
I am wondering if that knocking you are hearing is a sloppy balljoint.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,670
From: Binghamton, NY
I have a Haynes manual and it, plus the online DIYs and prior mechanical experience have all been enough for the group of us that share work on our cars. Get a set of Allen bit sockets and a torx bit assortment - you'll need them often on the Audi. And if you're doing front brakes I HIGHLY recommend you get the A8 upgrade - it's absolutely worth the money. And as was mentioned above, you will need the caliper piston screw tool for putting the rear pistons back into the calipers (the fronts compress with a c-clamp).
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1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
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Sweet info.
Pull off tire for front brake pad sensor connector check.
Check ball joint.
Bentley A4 manual (I hate having to constantly check websites for simple info)
Now the caliper-piston-screw-tool..............Are you talking about a caliper spreader?
And rotating the rear calipers clockwise because of compression, is that to get them off?
Really all these little tidbits is exactly what I was looking for. I will do a search on the A8front brake upgrade in this forum. I'm very much to improved handling of brakes, A4 brakes suck so bad. I almost blew past a stop sign because I was not aware of them on my first Audi drive.
Pull off tire for front brake pad sensor connector check.
Check ball joint.
Bentley A4 manual (I hate having to constantly check websites for simple info)
Now the caliper-piston-screw-tool
..............Are you talking about a caliper spreader?And rotating the rear calipers clockwise because of compression, is that to get them off?
Really all these little tidbits is exactly what I was looking for. I will do a search on the A8front brake upgrade in this forum. I'm very much to improved handling of brakes, A4 brakes suck so bad. I almost blew past a stop sign because I was not aware of them on my first Audi drive.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,670
From: Binghamton, NY
I don't think it's called a spreader really - just ask for the brake piston screw tool and you'll get the right part. Most kits come with several different-size fittings since brake pistons are sized differently from caliper to caliper. The caliper unbolts from the carrier with Allen-bits (7 or 8mm), and then the carrier comes off with hex bolts and then the rotor comes off. Be sure to spray all the bolts with a penetrating oil before you attack them - between moderate to high torque specs and heat cycling in the hubs, those bolts can really stick and you can strip them (a BIG problem for the Allen bolts if it happens).
The screw tool is used once the old pads are off - if you look at the face of the brake piston you'll see two divots on it 180 degrees apart. The nuns on the piston tool fit into them and allow you to screw the piston back into the caliper (penetrating oil can help here too, to make it turn easier). Then seat the new pads and reassemble. And again only the tears require this - the fromts compress normally with a clamp (you'll need an 8" clamp).
The A8 (which in the pic below are inside my 18" wheels, for scale reference) give you more stopping power due to the increased torque-arm effect of moving the calipers outward on wider-span carriers and the use of larger rotors (12.3" instead of the A4's 11.3"). The extra half-inch radius doesn't sound like much but the increase is dramatic, especially when coupled with a performance brake pad. In my sig, those are the A8 rotors with the slotted and drilled Powerstop option and I'm running Hawk ceramic pads as well. I got the kit from www.ecstuning.com - cost $444 including the Hawk pads and the kit (which comes with the rotors and carriers and reuses your existing calipers). If you forego the slotted or slotted/drilled option you'll save $65-70. Believe me, this is all the brakes you need unless you track your car - they're designed for a car that outweighs the A4 by a lot, so using them on a car that's 500-600 lbs lighter makes for quite a big improvement. Use the search feature above and you'll find many testimonials for them from myself and others and you won't find anyone that regretted the purchase. They're a no-brainer for anyone doing front brakes and everyone should buy them. Seriously.
The screw tool is used once the old pads are off - if you look at the face of the brake piston you'll see two divots on it 180 degrees apart. The nuns on the piston tool fit into them and allow you to screw the piston back into the caliper (penetrating oil can help here too, to make it turn easier). Then seat the new pads and reassemble. And again only the tears require this - the fromts compress normally with a clamp (you'll need an 8" clamp).
The A8 (which in the pic below are inside my 18" wheels, for scale reference) give you more stopping power due to the increased torque-arm effect of moving the calipers outward on wider-span carriers and the use of larger rotors (12.3" instead of the A4's 11.3"). The extra half-inch radius doesn't sound like much but the increase is dramatic, especially when coupled with a performance brake pad. In my sig, those are the A8 rotors with the slotted and drilled Powerstop option and I'm running Hawk ceramic pads as well. I got the kit from www.ecstuning.com - cost $444 including the Hawk pads and the kit (which comes with the rotors and carriers and reuses your existing calipers). If you forego the slotted or slotted/drilled option you'll save $65-70. Believe me, this is all the brakes you need unless you track your car - they're designed for a car that outweighs the A4 by a lot, so using them on a car that's 500-600 lbs lighter makes for quite a big improvement. Use the search feature above and you'll find many testimonials for them from myself and others and you won't find anyone that regretted the purchase. They're a no-brainer for anyone doing front brakes and everyone should buy them. Seriously.
Last edited by ImTheDevil; Apr 11, 2009 at 01:52 PM.
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1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 19
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Hello everyone I just thought I would post up on my progress.
I replaced my motor mounts(STERN, street style) and tranny mounts(OEM).
It was a blast once I figured out the front dampner had to be unbolted. The new STERN mounts are awsome, and give a nice hum in the cabin; while also give alot of torgue back to me. Not sure how much compared to OEM, but definately very nice; since mine were blown.
Brakes I'm letting a shop do because I'm working on too many cars. Thanks for all the suggestions.
I replaced my motor mounts(STERN, street style) and tranny mounts(OEM).
It was a blast once I figured out the front dampner had to be unbolted. The new STERN mounts are awsome, and give a nice hum in the cabin; while also give alot of torgue back to me. Not sure how much compared to OEM, but definately very nice; since mine were blown.
Brakes I'm letting a shop do because I'm working on too many cars. Thanks for all the suggestions.