Alright, sorry it took so long.

When you first initiate the diagnostic codes, you are accessing a block of numbers that will give you values. For example if you press and hold recirculation button and hit the manual flow control as indicated in the write up, you can hit the temp + or - to go to #27 and hit the recirculate button again..... With your car running it will display in a digital readout from the climate display the engine rpm's. If you look, codes 2-86 will give you the values of that particular code input number.

ONLY 1C (code #1) will spit out the diagnostic trouble codes...... Which are listed below the list of 86 value codes. And from what I count, there is only 65 fault codes possible.

 

OK-
thats actually kind of good news because under 1c I get a reading of .0 which means no malfunction codes, on the other hand that doesn't tell what is wrong. I checked again and the fuse is definatley good. what do you think man, to me it sounds like a relay or actuator or something since I haven't had any problems before.

 

I am basically going to keep updating this so that if someone has the same problem, they can use this thread to figure out a solution. I did some more investigating today and am leaning towards blaming my fan motor as the cause of the problem. I didn't check the voltage but after examining the wiring diagrams discovered that the resistor that supplies and limits supply of voltage to the fan is a 3 wire design which means that in the case of the resistor failing or opening, the fan motor will be supplied with full voltage fed by the backup wire which bypasses the now open resistor. My ac is operating normally, and when turned on the auxillary fan is spinning beneath the hood. It's got to be the motor itself right? Sorry to anyone who read this and fell asleep.

 

I just got done replacing my fan motor today and it was the problem, not sure if circuitry went bad or if it was the motor itself. Anyhow, fan motor was the problem if anyone reads this.