So i tore the head off to replace it with a rebuilt head to find that it wasn't the head that was leaking the oil, but it was my pistons. I stuck a feeler gauge in between them and i was able to fit a 13 and a 14 between them, and on cylinder 1 i was able to fit around a 16 to 17 in between the piston and the bore with some work. The engine was rebuilt at 132,000 and right now it has 145,000 on the clock. There was very little carbon built up, but that's way to much clearance! I measured the bore of the cylinders and they measured out to 81mm. So now i'm pretty frustrated. i really don't have any cash flow right now, all i have is my savings.
What i think happened was this god awful atp tune that the guy previously had been using before he replaced the turbo with a precision 5857 right before i bought it has been causing it to run very lean. I was getting AF ratio of 14.2- 15.6 sometimes it was very inconsistent at idle.
So i most likely am going to have to bore the engine, buy new pistons and rings. while paying college tuition.

So right now id almost be better buying a new block, or just parting the car out. let me know what you guys think. This is the worst news ive ever had to deal with. If anyone knew anyone selling a block that was somewhat built, please let me know. i need all the help i can get.


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144,000 miles on Body and had 132,000 on clock when engine was rebuilt.
Engine/Trans
1.8t with intergrated engineering forged rods and JE pistons
Precision 5857 billet turbo with about 7k miles on it.
tail 38mm with 13 psi wastegate spring
stock fitment adjustable fpr.
fuel pressure gauge
all new belts
3" downpipe... forget where its from
hallman manual boost controller
greddy fmic
forge Diverter
ATP software
550 injectors
Milltek 2.75" exhaust with deleted cat.
low mileage (approximately 110,000) replaced 5 speed transmission
southbend stg3 clutch
AWE 12lb flywheel and Drive train stabilizer bar
034 transmission mounts 034 motor, snub, diff mounts
B&M short shifter
vei gauge dual boost and A/F ratio and innovate motorsports wideband along with logworks software and connector.
Wheels,tires and brakes
18 x 8.5 and 18 x 9.5 Mercedes sl500 "alphard" wheels wearing kumho spt's 215/45 front and 235/40 rear
oem replacement size zimmerman x-drilled with ebc brake pads ( have brembo S8 caliper,stainless steel lines, and stasis 2 pc rotors on front

Suspension
brand new power steering pump
Brand new front control arms.
Stasis track sport coils
neuspeed 29 mm front and 19 mm rear sway bar
new bushings on front sway bars

Interior/electronics
Stock S-line seats only in 97-97.5 a4's...heated
autometer boost gauge
greddy turbo timer
s4 shift ****
Pioneer single DIN DVD headunit
Clarion 7" monitors installed in headrests
Kicker 12" sub
soundstream mono and kicker 4 way amps
rockfordfosgate punch capacitor
Diamond Audio m5 series speakers all around
Ungo alarm with autostart
ipod intergration

Exterior
Two tone stock resprayed cactus pearl green with satin black
clear 2 pc projector 6000k HID's
clear side markers
deleted side audi symbol, door moldings and upper side skirt molding
fenders stretched about 1"

 

Did you perform a leakdown or compression test before tear-down?

 

No, Ive beating myself up about that... I got ahead of myself.

 

So the slap/bore clearance suggested on the piston is anywhere from .0015- .0025 and a i measured it around -.0027 so do you think the rings will change it?

And i also learned he put some crap in the coolant to keep it from leaking before he sold it to me. because it was all crusted up around a bolt near my water pump.
So now im gonna change the timing belt and water pump.

 

Look like i'm gonna bore it. I'm taking the block off tomorrow.
Here comes the build.

 

What do you all plan on doing? I'm building a motor too. If you need odds and ends for parts hit me up. I got some extra stuff if you need it

 

Right on, Likewise ill keep an eye out for part if you need anything.
i have an aeb head i could have sold you in good shape.

I'm taking the block out tomorrow, and i'm going to take it up to a machine shop to get it bored, what bore I've chose i have no idea as of yet.
i ordered a new alternator, the guy i bought my car from but bars-leak to keep it from leaking coolant,a so i'm changing the water pump. The belts are in really good condition so i'm not going to replace them.
The cylinder walls have scars in them, from god knows what. So i really have need to bore it out.

And everything around the block and under it is covered in oil!
There's a breather hose under where the intake manifold is and its covered in oil. I don't know why its their my old a4 wasn't located there.
I'm sure ill find more problems along the way.

but i really got screwed on this deal.

There's a picture of my rebuilt head ready to be installed.

 

well i was in the market for a new head as the one on the motor i bought was crap. i ended up buying a aeb head thats at the machine shop now. i am looking for an awm valve cover and cam sprocket though.
and when you say your not replacing belts i hope your not including the timing belt... even if it only has a thousand miles on it its pretty cheap insurance. i am personally gonna put one of those kevlar reinforced ones on. im building my motor to last a long time. hopefully