ok everyone im new here, and im new to this whole euro thing....
i just recently bought a 1999 Audi A4 1.8T quattro....

( its a 1999 a4 quattro mint.. MINT condition on interior and exterior, only 2 owners and the second one was a family friend of the first. the car was baby'd by both owners kept maintanece and how recetes to back it all up.. it was the most legit buy i've ever come across. it is silver and has 18' rims on it with honcook tires already lowered on KYB shocks and springs.. HID'S ALREADY and roughly 130,xxx miles) everything works on the car and i know these older 1.8t motors from audi/vw create sludge REALLY BADLY IF NOT MAINTANED. and this motor has none WHAT SO EVER!!!
They were asking $4,600... i flashed $4,200 and they took it... not bad??? idk you tell me your opinion.

When i first saw the listing the car WAS.... running.. 4 days later the people i was purchasing it from called me and told me "uuuuuuhhhh we have an issue"

now this is a big deal cause i sacrificed and drove a POS truck for over a year to save to get a car i really wanted...

the people told me they tried to change the 3 drive belts on the car for me before they got the car to me.. somehow in the process the retard made it jump time by 2 teeth....

now i am a automotive technition or mechanic at a VW dealership... trying to stay positive i decided to buy the car and atttempt to fix it cheaper then what i was going to buy it for....so i told them $2,000 how it si and made them pay for the tow to me.. they took it and towed it to me the next day!!

i have already got the front bumper off and have the core support in service position and have the valve Cover and head pulled off.. i found 4 intake valves bent and all 8 exhaust valves.. now that kinda sucks for me.. for y'all that dont know audi/vw have SODIUM filled exhaust valves to disperse heat and keep it a little cooler around the turbo.. so they average $60 EACH VALVE!!...but at my point i have spent $4000 and have a half new motor and all new belts and have learned a lot about the car and motor from taking it apart... i am waiting on all my $2000 of parts that i have coming to get it back together and final be able to drive my audi which ll i can to is anticepate the moment..

my parts.
-euro front bumper
-euro style blacked out head lights
- APR carbon fiber intake
-forge 007 DV
-timing belt and new tensioner
-all new drive belts and both new tensioners.
-new hood latch (was broken, needed needle nose pliars to open hood)
-all gaskets for head and valve cover
new gasket and bolts for where exhaust mounts to turbo.
-oil and oil filter for oil change
-coolent for coolent flush.
- new pollen filter
-new air filter
- carbon fiber engine cover
- new 2 piece timing belt cover
- ngk spark plugs
-oem audi s-4 coils
-4 intake valves
-8 exhaust valves
- new head bolts
- and lots of clamps and bolts and screws


most parts are oem as in timing belt and oil filter (stuff that should stay from factory)

give me your opinion and any ideas... help with hard piping kits and front mount intercooler.. any good parts that you would recomind.. as mouch as i know factory wise for audi/vw.. i still need to learn preformance wise..

thanks for any ideas or thoughts!

 

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=109459


some of the links of this sticky will help you


sorry to hear about your adventure .. these cars can be a head ache but are worth everysecond

audi world has a couple of stickys that can help you as well

 

Bent valves probably mean dinged up pistons. How did they look? If you need to replace them too, might as well pull the whole thing and bore the block over to 2.0, grab a BAT, and eat V8's for breakfast. I know it's a little more complicated than that (and considerably more expensive) but Mike Hood can definitely get you pointed in the right direction... (Mike, are you reading this? I can never remember exactly how you type you screen name).

 

YEA WHEN IT JUMPED TIMING IT WAS IDLING SO THE PISTONS ARE ACTUALLY NOT DAMAGED.... which im very lucky for ... but i planned to build the motor cause from what i understand i have an AEB engine which is the slower stock 150 HP and none forged internals.. which is fine.. in a weird way i like the challenge..


also think you for the bore idea.. so if i bore the motor while i have it out doing forged internals.. (which will happen down the road) im guessing boring it out to a 2.0 is suggest.... like i said i dont know much performance wise.. i only got the forge diverter valve and apr intake because i red good things about those on here and in my opinion one of the whole reasons to have a turbo is to have that beautiful sound when you shift which is what i really want, but i do know the DV's are a little different then a blow off valve but you still get a little bit of the same sound, and also wondering.. does hard piping make a differnece on that also??

 

we want pictures even if its in pieces

 

you paid too much for it. i think you could've gotten a whole engine for less than 2000 and swapped it in.

as far as recommendations go, what kind of car do you want. a show car, race car or street car? and how much power?

 

Yea i know im working on pictures, they should be up soon...
And i thought about getting a new motor but mine had no sludge at all i had a lot of people that told me to keep it for that reason....

I want to go for a street car more of a daily/street car... Just something that i can drive to work everyday but if i run into something interesting on the road i cam still walk all over them

 

The AEB engine came with less HP stock than the '01 engines with the upgraded turbo, but once you get into serious upgrades, the AEB engine can't be beat. The intake mani has bigger ports for more air flow, and the piston wrist pins are 20mm instead of the newer 19mm, which means stronger.

You have a strong engine to start with, where you go with it is entirely up to you (and how much cash you're willing to spend).

BTW, the whole reason to have a turbo is to force more air into the engine (AKA: Forced Induction), creating more HP and TQ, not to make a pssssssssssssssshht sound between shifts. Trust me, on this forum, the crowd gets ugly quick when you start making ricer comments about an Audi...

 

Believe me i know plenty on how a turbo works and i know what a turbo is.. But one of the parts to having a turbo is that sound, if i wanted to be a ricer i would be driving a honda with a body kit zip tied on and with a fart can and a airplane wing on the back.. With lambo doors that half way worked. And autozone neons, but ake fun of me if it pleases you, idc.

And money isnt really to big of a problem its just time consuming to save it, plus working at a vw/audi dealership allows me to get discounts on maaaaanyyy parts, even after market. Our parts manager has an account with
ecstuning.com
techtonics.com
and a couple other websites were i can get up to 40% off and saving money is always nice.

But any other websites that anyone knows of, im sure would help i want to find a good fully forged stroker kit and i want to find a good set up i have seen many different kinds and i just want to know what is the most logical and works out the best, and idk are there sets you can get or do you just kinda have to make it up yourself???

 

Some people like the sound and some people don't. Overall, Audi isn't supposed to make the sound, and you bought the wrong DV to make it happen. Return that Forge 007 DV and get their splitter - search for it.

From what I have read - and correct me if I'm wrong because I don't want to put words in other people's mouths:

Turbo Kraut has a fast car and a big turbo with an ebay fmic kit and it has worked fine for him.
Mike Hood has the fastest B5 in the country, and he says that you should just look for a fmic that has a core with dimensions of the hp requirements you want and buy it.

In summary, it doesn't matter what name brand fmic you purchase, so long as it has the right dimensions for what you're trying to do.
You better decide on exactly how much power you want before you start buying things that aren't necessary for a car that is going to end up with maybe 300hp; for example a fmic rated for 600hp or an unnecessary stroker kit.

Also, if you plan on boosting this car past 300hp, you should read the sticky on Garrett's turbochargers; also note that the more you boost your B5, the less of a daily driver it is going to be and the more it is going to sit in the bay of your Audi/VW dealership while you have your hand pressed against your forehead - you should know this is inevitable with all makes and models. Heavily modified cars do not make the most reliable daily drivers, it is plain and simple, although I am sure someone will rebut this.