New Clutch slipping - again
On the drive back, I was able to confirm my earlier statement. Pressing the clutch 1/4 to 1/2 inch disengages. Can the clutch be adjusted?
On Monday, the clutch comes out. We'll see then, and confirm the measurement above. What could lead to a 'wrong' distance?
No adjustments that are going to help you.
Question for you. Has the SB clutch always engaged at the top since you put it in?
If so then the flywheel height is too much causing the disk to get released too quickly when the fingers start to get pushed in. The flywheel/PP/Throw-out bearing are way to tall causing the cylinder in the slave to be pushed all the way in and not allowing the fingers to fully release up and causing a much shorter travel. The pressure plate is not fully bolted down right to the surface of the flywheel causing there to be a gap between the PP cover and the lip of the flywheel.
Like I told you, if you guys cant seem to find exactly what is causing the issue our best option is to send the flywheel/clutch/tb to SB for them to inspect it. Beause at this point the clutch is engagement more like stock or CM then like it should if it is a SB clutch.
Question for you. Has the SB clutch always engaged at the top since you put it in?
If so then the flywheel height is too much causing the disk to get released too quickly when the fingers start to get pushed in. The flywheel/PP/Throw-out bearing are way to tall causing the cylinder in the slave to be pushed all the way in and not allowing the fingers to fully release up and causing a much shorter travel. The pressure plate is not fully bolted down right to the surface of the flywheel causing there to be a gap between the PP cover and the lip of the flywheel.
Like I told you, if you guys cant seem to find exactly what is causing the issue our best option is to send the flywheel/clutch/tb to SB for them to inspect it. Beause at this point the clutch is engagement more like stock or CM then like it should if it is a SB clutch.
If so then the flywheel height is too much causing the disk to get released too quickly when the fingers start to get pushed in.
The flywheel/PP/Throw-out bearing are way to tall causing the cylinder in the slave to be pushed all the way in and not allowing the fingers to fully release up and causing a much shorter travel. The pressure plate is not fully bolted down right to the surface of the flywheel causing there to be a gap between the PP cover and the lip of the flywheel
The flywheel/PP/Throw-out bearing are way to tall causing the cylinder in the slave to be pushed all the way in and not allowing the fingers to fully release up and causing a much shorter travel. The pressure plate is not fully bolted down right to the surface of the flywheel causing there to be a gap between the PP cover and the lip of the flywheel
Why would the flywheel height be too all? Only if it is not a stock fly wheel, I assume?
yes. If the flywheel measurement is more then that it would be the reason your clutch is disengaging so soon on the pedal travel.
When they pull the transmission make sure to check that the lip of the pressure plate is tight up against the flywheel lip. Might also want to take a measurement of the height from the flywheel surface to the edges of the fingers.
When they pull the transmission make sure to check that the lip of the pressure plate is tight up against the flywheel lip. Might also want to take a measurement of the height from the flywheel surface to the edges of the fingers.
I can confirm now: the SB clutch always engaged on top, no difference to the new stock clutch.
No adjustments that are going to help you.
Question for you. Has the SB clutch always engaged at the top since you put it in?
==> Yes, always. Same as stock
If so then the flywheel height is too much causing the disk to get released too quickly when the fingers start to get pushed in. The flywheel/PP/Throw-out bearing are way to tall causing the cylinder in the slave to be pushed all the way in and not allowing the fingers to fully release up and causing a much shorter travel. The pressure plate is not fully bolted down right to the surface of the flywheel causing there to be a gap between the PP cover and the lip of the flywheel.
Like I told you, if you guys cant seem to find exactly what is causing the issue our best option is to send the flywheel/clutch/tb to SB for them to inspect it. Beause at this point the clutch is engagement more like stock or CM then like it should if it is a SB clutch.
Question for you. Has the SB clutch always engaged at the top since you put it in?
==> Yes, always. Same as stock
If so then the flywheel height is too much causing the disk to get released too quickly when the fingers start to get pushed in. The flywheel/PP/Throw-out bearing are way to tall causing the cylinder in the slave to be pushed all the way in and not allowing the fingers to fully release up and causing a much shorter travel. The pressure plate is not fully bolted down right to the surface of the flywheel causing there to be a gap between the PP cover and the lip of the flywheel.
Like I told you, if you guys cant seem to find exactly what is causing the issue our best option is to send the flywheel/clutch/tb to SB for them to inspect it. Beause at this point the clutch is engagement more like stock or CM then like it should if it is a SB clutch.
I will see them soon. Any more suggestions? Is pulling the clutch the only way out? Should I consider doing it myself (what is involved in the job)?
But a clutch that was not disengaging completely or has a hydrolic issue wouldn't cause the clutch to slip, it would make it hard to shift while the engine is running and even cause the car to creep forward when starting the car in gear. These are 2 completely different issues.
Pulling the transmission out is a good 2 hr job, hardest part is pulling the exhaust but if it has been done lately it is not all that bad. Next hardest part is removing the lower transmission/block bolts. Leaving those out makes it so much easier to pull the transmission and they are really not needed. To get to those bolts you can either raise the transmission up or lower the back half of the sub frame.
Pulling the transmission out is a good 2 hr job, hardest part is pulling the exhaust but if it has been done lately it is not all that bad. Next hardest part is removing the lower transmission/block bolts. Leaving those out makes it so much easier to pull the transmission and they are really not needed. To get to those bolts you can either raise the transmission up or lower the back half of the sub frame.
Last edited by Mike-2ptzero; Mar 3, 2010 at 11:46 AM.
But a clutch that was not disengaging completely or has a hydrolic issue wouldn't cause the clutch to slip, it would make it hard to shift while the engine is running and even cause the car to creep forward when starting the car in gear. These are 2 completely different issues.
Pulling the transmission out is a good 2 hr job, hardest part is pulling the exhaust but if it has been done lately it is not all that bad. Next hardest part is removing the lower transmission/block bolts. Leaving those out makes it so much easier to pull the transmission and they are really not needed. To get to those bolts you can either raise the transmission up or lower the back half of the sub frame.