New member with a 98 1.8Ts with $1000 to spend...what to do?
As other people have stated, before you go spending your cash on upgrades, make sure everything is working well.
If it were me:
Scan for codes (the check engine light doesn't always come up if something is wrong)
Compression test
Any upcoming maintenance (you're coming due for your second timing belt $$$)
If you're still on your original DV, replace it. The internals are rubber and prone to leaks at higher mileage.
If it were me:
Scan for codes (the check engine light doesn't always come up if something is wrong)
Compression test
Any upcoming maintenance (you're coming due for your second timing belt $$$)
If you're still on your original DV, replace it. The internals are rubber and prone to leaks at higher mileage.
Last edited by BaconBait; Jan 6, 2011 at 09:32 PM.
As other people have stated, before you go spending your cash on upgrades, make sure everything is working well.
If it were me:
Scan for codes (the check engine light doesn't always come up if something is wrong)
Compression test
Any upcoming maintenance (you're coming due for your second timing belt $$$)
If you're still on your original DV, replace it. The internals are rubber and prone to leaks at higher mileage.
If it were me:
Scan for codes (the check engine light doesn't always come up if something is wrong)
Compression test
Any upcoming maintenance (you're coming due for your second timing belt $$$)
If you're still on your original DV, replace it. The internals are rubber and prone to leaks at higher mileage.
Dead? Nah, just resting my eyes. Still running around the Trenton area.
The turbo only breaks in the 1.8T's because of sediment that builds up in the oil pan, which a simple oil change cannot fix. I would recommend having the oil pan dropped (will need a new oil pan gasket) to remove built up sediment. Also get a mechanic to check over everything, which shouldnt cost a lot but be sure to visit a mechanic who knows about the car, not just the local mechanic who only works on more popular cars. I would reccomend chipping, a new diverter valve as people have said, and just spend the rest on aesthetic changes.
I am currently having my ECU chipped by APR (goapr.com)
Hope this helps
I am currently having my ECU chipped by APR (goapr.com)
Hope this helps
Here is what I did: my car (1998 A4 B5 AEB) came with a mystery "TAP STAGE 2 - +50 HP - 12 PSI" chip. It had 136k on it when I noticed rattling sound and not so impressive power.
Turned out the wastegate flapper was decaying. After 'ebay china turbo' (luckily, junked before putting the effort in of installing it), friends hooked me up with TurboConcepts nearby.
Nick gave me 2 options: rebuilt my K03 to as new, or for couple hundred more a custom turbo to match my desired characteristic (good spool, mid range power, no need for peak power at astronomical RPM). I got the custom with compressor better than K04-015, turbine a bit limited (using my K03 core), but matching the characteristic. I later (when the front end was off anyway for the timing belt job) got an ebay FMIC ($300) and a test pipe. I am know getting 18.5 psi at 4000 rpm, stock injectors. Total: $1,000 (using my broken K03 core, but had the 'mysteri chip' already.
With the miles you have, rebuilding your turbo is a good investment, so you are basically in the same situation I was.
If timing belt change has been a while, do it now and install the FMIC, and order the test pipe. The stock ECU may still hold you back, but now you are ready to chip the car. I would love to see what the GIAC PC16 with injectors would do on my setup.
My next step (I decided NOT to go big turbo on the car) is to de-bottleneck the turbine side by replacing my custom K03/K04 with a K04 housing (to get a larger turbine in) but pretty much leave the compressor. This should extend my 18.5 psi to 6000 rpm (currently, it drops to 10 psi at 6000). I would put my current turbo (less than 10k, naturally 5W Mobile 1) up for sale (for the price of a rebuild).
If your turbo is holding up, you may do test pipe first, chipping second (not sure how the various stages offered run on stock turbo; select your disired chip/tune, then ask the tuner), then turbo.
Or: test pipe, turbo, FMIC (mine runs just fine with stock ECU), then chip/tune and fuel.
Next on your list should then be a clutch upgrade (I went with Southbend Stage 3; plenty of power capacity, stock drive-ability).
Turned out the wastegate flapper was decaying. After 'ebay china turbo' (luckily, junked before putting the effort in of installing it), friends hooked me up with TurboConcepts nearby.
Nick gave me 2 options: rebuilt my K03 to as new, or for couple hundred more a custom turbo to match my desired characteristic (good spool, mid range power, no need for peak power at astronomical RPM). I got the custom with compressor better than K04-015, turbine a bit limited (using my K03 core), but matching the characteristic. I later (when the front end was off anyway for the timing belt job) got an ebay FMIC ($300) and a test pipe. I am know getting 18.5 psi at 4000 rpm, stock injectors. Total: $1,000 (using my broken K03 core, but had the 'mysteri chip' already.
With the miles you have, rebuilding your turbo is a good investment, so you are basically in the same situation I was.
If timing belt change has been a while, do it now and install the FMIC, and order the test pipe. The stock ECU may still hold you back, but now you are ready to chip the car. I would love to see what the GIAC PC16 with injectors would do on my setup.
My next step (I decided NOT to go big turbo on the car) is to de-bottleneck the turbine side by replacing my custom K03/K04 with a K04 housing (to get a larger turbine in) but pretty much leave the compressor. This should extend my 18.5 psi to 6000 rpm (currently, it drops to 10 psi at 6000). I would put my current turbo (less than 10k, naturally 5W Mobile 1) up for sale (for the price of a rebuild).
If your turbo is holding up, you may do test pipe first, chipping second (not sure how the various stages offered run on stock turbo; select your disired chip/tune, then ask the tuner), then turbo.
Or: test pipe, turbo, FMIC (mine runs just fine with stock ECU), then chip/tune and fuel.
Next on your list should then be a clutch upgrade (I went with Southbend Stage 3; plenty of power capacity, stock drive-ability).
true that...my car is going to be done next week(fingers crossed)
They are never done when expected lol, whether its at a shop or your doing it yourself. I cant wait to see the outcome tho. I like the build and I'm always a fan of Precision turbos. Garrett may be a quality product, but they are behind the times. I believe they FINALLY just recently came out with a billet wheel option.


