No pressure in my brake lines.
#13
I was asking which wheel you were trying to bleed. I understand that you need to bleed the whole system, but you have to start somewhere.
You said you replaced the rear brakes, but didn't touch the fronts. When you initially bled the rears, were you able to get fluid through? Since you didn't touch the fronts, you should be able to get fluid through there. Have you tried starting with the left front wheel?
Here is the link to the pressure bleeder I made. The DIY $20 brake bleeder Rather than the clear hose I just used the hose that came off of the sprayer. For a cap, I went the the junkyard and pulled one. I does not need to come from an Audi. ATE makes brake parts for many manufacturers. I think the one I used came from a Volvo. A couple dollars in fittings from the hardware store and some silicone RTV and it works like a champ. I also didn't do the pressure gauge. A few pumps of the handle and you'll know that you've got plenty of pressure in there. This way you don't need a friend to push on the brake pedal. You simply pressurize the reservoir and then open the bleeder on the wheel you want to bleed. So Easy!
You said you replaced the rear brakes, but didn't touch the fronts. When you initially bled the rears, were you able to get fluid through? Since you didn't touch the fronts, you should be able to get fluid through there. Have you tried starting with the left front wheel?
Here is the link to the pressure bleeder I made. The DIY $20 brake bleeder Rather than the clear hose I just used the hose that came off of the sprayer. For a cap, I went the the junkyard and pulled one. I does not need to come from an Audi. ATE makes brake parts for many manufacturers. I think the one I used came from a Volvo. A couple dollars in fittings from the hardware store and some silicone RTV and it works like a champ. I also didn't do the pressure gauge. A few pumps of the handle and you'll know that you've got plenty of pressure in there. This way you don't need a friend to push on the brake pedal. You simply pressurize the reservoir and then open the bleeder on the wheel you want to bleed. So Easy!
#14
I have tried everything at this point. Even disconnecting the brake lines themselves from the wheel cylinders. There is nothing, not even a dribble.
Edit point: With a lifter tick, 156,000 miles, a cracked windshield, a torn driver's seat and the ongoing brake nightmare, this ****** maybe appearing on the craigslist "free to haul away" list.
Edit point: With a lifter tick, 156,000 miles, a cracked windshield, a torn driver's seat and the ongoing brake nightmare, this ****** maybe appearing on the craigslist "free to haul away" list.
Last edited by Raybbaby; 07-25-2012 at 02:23 PM.
#16
I don't see any way that it could be the ABS pump. There are many members on here that drive perfectly fine without the ABS system. It would certainly be a poor design if the brakes failed completely if the ABS controller/pump went bad. You have a better chance of the master cylinder going bad. There must be something else wrong.
#17
its not the abs pump. maybe 1 out of every 100 times its the abs pump. I have never had abs, i have drained my brakes completely and bled them fine. Its possible you ruined the MC by pumping when there was no fluid in it. Have you even tried narrowing it down? All 4 wheels can't be bled? just the front? just one? need a little more info.
#18
No fluid is moving through the system at all. At this point I am guessing it is the master cylinder. I will have to hit it up again tomorrow, bright and early. I didn't pump the brakes while the reservoir was empty. As a matter of fact, the reservoir was never empty, I don't think it was even so low as to let air into the lines. But I've had it for today.
#19
IF your sure it wasn't empty lets just narrow it down to one line. the rears are fine because you said that you bled them. You haven't really seemed to narrow it down. Come back tomorrow and tell us which lines won't get fluid. Can you still bleed the rears? OR they can't get fluid at all now.
#20
Do I really need to go buy plugs to test the master cylinder, or would any bolts of the same size and thread pitch work as plugs? And there is no fluid being moved in the rear lines either, I bled them like a week or two ago, when I did all the rear brake work. I'm guessing the master cylinder went out, possibly broke because I was over pumping when I was bleeding the brakes.